[redlehr]

I have a 64 gal I want to put disc brakes on(front disc brakes) and I am running 15 inch tires and 7 inch (classic) Cragar s/s wheels. I want to use the brake kit from Toms Classic on e bay. Tom's Classic told me that the kit is a 71 ltd rotor and 78 k 10 caliper. Has anyone put this kit behind a 7 inch Cragar rim or does anyone know if the calipers would fit ? I asked him if they had a template to send to measure with, they don't...but some brake companies do have them I'm told. I didn't want to pull the trigger and spend almost $700.00 if they won't fit....
Thanks for any help !!!!

 

[danv]

They'll fit. I am using 15x6 rims.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/braking-articles/510822-galaxie-front-disc-brake-conversion.html

But, it might take some time to get a good pedal feel when you are bleeding the system.

 

[redlehr]

They'll fit. I am using 15x6 rims.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/braking-articles/510822-galaxie-front-disc-brake-conversion.html

But, it might take some time to get a good pedal feel when you are bleeding the system.

Thanks Dan, I'll keep ya posted , and great article,I'll be sure to use it for a guide.

 

[redlehr]

Ok, The brakes finally came and I had the chance to start on the project after work today. I got the old master and old booster off.I prepared the new BIG master cylinder ready,bench bled it and by the way it took 2 times of bleeding to get the bubbles to quit appearing, I let the master sit a few minutes and tried it again to make sure all air was pumped out of master.
I got the booster all set up to bolt on the firewall but the instructions said to bend the tabs on the plate that the firewall boot goes on, but there was nowhere to bend them so I left the tabs alone,hope that was ok...
I bolted the booster on and then hooked up the booster push rod to the brake pedal.When I lift the pedal toward me in the car, there is about an half an inch of play ,is that too much play ??? I didn't see anywhere to adjust the brake pedal on the inside...
Then I bolted the master on the booster with the combination valve attached.I got the rear brake line hooked up from the c. valve to the master ok, but it looks like my MSD is going to have to be moved an inch up on the fender well to get the front line hooked up to the c. valve.(see pics)

I had a single outlet master on the original set up on the car,the instructions say I have to put in a new hard line from the proportioning valve outlet to a "T" fitting and then on to the rear wheels.
I see where Danv came out the back of the combo valve with his "T" and put the brake switch on.

My question is , what port on the combo. valve do I put the old main brake line in ?
That old main brake line goes to the proportioning valve as pictured.
I need some expert advice on my set up ,and hopefully the pics will help.

 

[redlehr]

another pic

 

[redlehr]

Is this the proportioning valve ? This valve is behind the left front tire,one line goes to the rear brakes, one line goes to the right front wheel, and one line goes to the left front wheel.

 

[redlehr]

last picture,wish I knew a better way to do the pics thing,,can't figure photo bucket out!
I have only one of the lines hooked up due to the MSD in the way.

 

[63ford406]

The picture in the 6th post is the stock distribution block. Stock drum/drum brakes didn't have a proportioning valve. Remove the line going to the rear brakes and plug the hole in the distribution block with a flare plug. Then bend the line going to the back brakes up a little and install a union fitting and then make a new line to the combo valve. For a brake light switch you are going to have to do like DanV or put a manual one inside off of the pedal.

 

[redlehr]

The picture in the 6th post is the stock distribution block. Stock drum/drum brakes didn't have a proportioning valve. Remove the line going to the rear brakes and plug the hole in the distribution block with a flare plug. Then bend the line going to the back brakes up a little and install a union fitting and then make a new line to the combo valve. For a brake light switch you are going to have to do like DanV or put a manual one inside off of the pedal.

Ok, sounds good ,I'll come off of the back of the combo valve and put my "T" in and the brake switch on top of the "T". and then hook the "T" to the back brake line.
There is a main line coming from the stock distribution block that went to the old master. Do I understand the directions right ..I can hook that main line up to either one of the front brake ports on the combo valve and have it service both sides of the front brakes ? That's what it sounds like to me...

 

[danv]

Alternatively.

REAR: You can also hook up the rear line coming out of the combo valve to a union fitting, then the existing rear brake line fits to that.
FRONT: You can run the existing front line to one of the ports on the front of the combo valve. The other port can be used for the switch. (Unless you want to run a separate line to each front brake)
EXISTING DISTRIBUTION BLOCK: Plug where the rear line has now been removed from block.

 

[Neeek]

I recently put this kit on my 65. I hooked up the hoses like this:

Front of prop valve, bottom - line to front brakes. T'd this single line into doubles at the original distribution block location (which required a new dist block with 3 points, rather than the factory 4 - although as Dan says, you could plug one of them up instead).

Front of prop valve, top - not needed the way I did it, but I couldn't find a plug. Ended up "blocking" it with the provided switch, which isn't required on a 65 as the actual switch is on the brake pedal itself.

Rear of prop valve - ditched the 1/4" fitting they gave me and used a similar one to take 3/16" line. But that went straight out to the rear brake line in the engine bay, using a horizontal union fitting.

Here's a pic of my booster/master which just about shows you the lines:

As Dan said, he's had issues with the pedal feel. My pedal feels excellent but I can't lock the brakes up. They pull up nicely, but lack that "emergency" feel, even after a few weeks of driving around daily. Pay close attention to the adjustable pushrod on the booster (which drives into the master) - get this length right! Oh, and I also had to use the shorter booster pushrod (also supplied in the kit) to get my pedal to line up... not sure if you'd need to do the same for the 64, though.

Overall I had a few niggles that I had to get around, but it's all working. Need to fine tune it now and get those brakes to lock.

 

[redlehr]

Well day 2 and I have all the plumbing in under the hood,now for the disc brakes.I was kind of cramped for space on the set up of the combo valve which is why the combo valve is out of kilter. I think with a little bending I can straighten it up.

Please let me know if anything doesn't look right, I am a first time novice and I need all the input I can get.

 

[redlehr]

This is where I want to put the MSD. Is it too close to the brake line ???

 

[danv]

Looks fine to me, assuming the rear out of the combo valve goes to the rear brakes.

MSD will be OK there.

 

[redlehr]

Looks fine to me,

I unhooked the rear brake line and plugged that port. Then I ran a new 20 inch line from the back of the combo valve down to the old rear brake line with a union.
Thanks for the help everyone !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Couldn't do it without ya !

 

[danv]

Spot on!
Best of luck with your bleeding and hope you get good brakes.

 

[redlehr]

In the instructions it says that it is important to clean out the threaded hole on top of the spindal,but the top hole on my spindal is NOT threaded,is this a bad thing or normal ??
The instructions were pretty good for the master/booster part of the job, but the rest of the instructions are a little cloudy. You really have to hard to see where you have to do the grinding on the spindal.

 

[danv]

I didn't get that part of instructions either.
Just make sure everything is clean and install it all like I did on my topic I did.

 

[redlehr]

Well, after never turning a wrench, I am now the proud owner of a brand new bouncing set of disc brakes.
After taking the Gal for a ride, the brakes responded very well. It's different not pushing the pedal to the floor.
I have the forum to thank for much of the help along with a couple of friends to help bleed the lines.
Next question, is there anything worth saving off of the old drum brakes for future use ?? I usually never throw anything away, but if it is of no use, it's going down the road.
Thanks again guys !http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p639/red-lehr/leftwheel_zps0440d1ab.jpg

 

[redlehr]

OK, I need a little more advice on the brakes.I've put around 50 miles on the brakes so far and the brake pedal seems to want to stick on me, it won't come all the way back into position after I apply the brakes.
Put a spring on it maybe ?

The front of the car seems to nose dive a bit when I apply the brakes, so I wonder if the back brakes are helping at all ?