[MightyMach]

ok, Its me, with the 351 C. Similiar build to MonsterMachs, minus the ROLLER CAM. I just have a Solid cam. I adjusted the valves today...on my own!

Ok here is the Problem. When I was brining up the pistons, I did it with the starter, as was mentioned in an earlier post. I did every rocker, and this worked GREAT. On the last 4 going over in the second time, the Battery just seemed to have died. I thought, ok, either Battery, or STARTER? Well, a hour and a half later, and a starter solenoid, and a new Battery Cable, still does not work. Seems to have ZERO juice. Even Jumping it failed. HELP!!!!...DRAG STRIP TOMORROW MORNING

JEFF GIVEN

 

[dark7068]

Was the battery sitting awhile, if you can't jump a dead battery, battery is toast. Try a different battery, it might work. Hows the water level in it, it could be very low,

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dark7068 on 1/13/02 11:04am ]</font>

 

[89 coupe]

You have a bad ground cable/bad connection. If you have positive cable hooked up, then negative cable is bad or where it attaches to ground.

 

[MightyMach]

Ok, forgot to mention this as well....The Car DID JUMP...BUT DIED 5 minutes later INSTANTLY, just like somebody pulled the coil. dad wants to think it is Starter, bbut that would not explain why the car DID start, and just shut off....Something is telling me I am not in Kansas anymore Todo... HELP AGAIN...I will go see if I am missing any info. Ohh yea, we did hook up a Boat battery to it...same thing, DID NOT start...any more hypothesis'?? Thanks a lot guys...PLEASE DONT LET ME DOWN!!!

Jeff Given

 

[MightyMach]

Dad was hooked to the battery through the Jumper cables, there was no juice. Going directly from battery, there was juice...Please don't let me down guys...PLEASE

Jeff Given...PS I will be checking the site every 5 minutes or so posting new info, and getting more info...THANKS A LOT GUYS!!

JG

 

[MightyMach]

MORE INFO:

What I was trying to say in the above post is this:

Hook the Jumper Cables up to battery...JUST THE BATTERY and THE CABLES HOOKED UP...there is juice.

Now put the Positive Cable to the Starter Solenoid, and the negative to the ground cable, then hook the jumpers up to the battery, THEN WE LOSE ALL POWER to the battery...Seems to make us want to scream!! Do you think Maybe God is telling me not to race tomorrow? Heheheh...well he is if we cant get this bitch started...so lets keep trying ehh? THANKS A MILLION GUYS!!

Jeff Given

 

[dark7068]

Sounds like a loose connection on the starter itself. The rely (post)in the starter could be shorting out. take a look there.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dark7068 on 1/13/02 12:12pm ]</font>

 

[mustangboy]

I am having a little trouble understanding exactly what you are saying but I will try to help.Disconnect your starter cable at the solinoid on the inner fender.Now hook the booster cables up to a KNOWN!! good battery or a running vehicle'hook the ground to a good clean spot on your engine (alternator bolt or bracket usually works.Now touch your positive end of the booster cable directly to the end of your starter cable. There should be afew sparks and your motor should crank.If the motor doesn't crank check the cable at the starter end to see if its tight.If it still doesn't crank and your sure you have power going to starter(check it with atest light one end on the booster cable ground the other end on your starter where the cable hooks on)If you have power your starter must be fried if not your starter cable must be bad. If the engine cranks hook starter cable back to solinoidand hook your positive jumper to the battery side of the solinoid now try the key If it cranks you have a bad positive cable or a loose connection If nothing happens check to see if you have power coming out of the little wire that goes to the tiny little stud on the front of your solinoid ,power will only come through when you have the key held to crank. If it cranks you must have a loose or broken ground wire. If there is no power coming through the small wire the problem lies some where in the igniton and wiring.Make sure the wires that go on the solonoid behind the pos itive cable are clean and making connection.You will know if you are getting power through these because you will have power to domelight accesories headlights etc.If the car starts with a boost and then dies after a while your alternator may not be charging (try your signal lights they will be real slow or not flash at all, with the car running)Hope you can understamd my ramblings. Good luck!

 

[mustangboy]

Just another thought if you can't boost through your original battery it may have a short inside of it. try swapping in a different battery.Let us know what is happening.

 

[Hottarod]

I'm a bit superstitous about this sort of thing myself. I've test fired my car the night before and go out the next morning to load it on the trailer and it would be totally dead. It does sort of make you wonder.

It sounds like you have some sort of short happening in one of the wires that is on the positive post on your solenoid. Sometimes those leads will corrode a little and create a short. If its one in between your battery positive and some other important lead like your ignition positive it will kill everything out. I had to wire brush the ends on those to fix mine.

 

[ZK Fairlane]

I had a similar problem myself, it was the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.
Have you swapped batteries with another car to check the battery is ok and eliminate it as a problem?
When you say you lose all power, turn the lights on, what happens?
No lights, bad earth on battery -ive, dead short on battery +ive (hold on to the cable it will be getting very hot, not very likely) or car body wiring fault.
Lights come on, starting circuit problem. A volt meter or test light would be handy now.
Assuming starting circuit problem and you have a volt meter. The battery voltage should be 13.8 volts for a good battery, hit the ignition to start, if voltage drops to 8 volts, check how hot the +ive cable is getting, this could mean a short in the starter motor and your dad was right, if it does not move there is an open circuit some where. If you were using a test light it would have gone dim or stayed the same.
Connect the meter to the starter motor and repeat the above, if you get voltage there the starter is open circuit,if no voltage there move the meter to the starter solenoid and repeat above. If voltage there open circuit solenoid to starter cable if not check power to other side of soleniod(battery to solenoid cable)if not there's your problem, if so continue on.
Time to hot wire the starter solenoid, remove the wire from the ignition switch and connect another piece of wire to the soleniod the touch this to the battery +ive, you should here the soleniod click and the starter motor turn, if not faulty soleniod. If it did there is a problem with the ignition switch.
By the way can you turn the motor over by hand/wrench or not?


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ZK Fairlane on 1/13/02 1:25pm ]</font>

 

[dark7068]

Jeff, what's the verdict, did you find the problem.

 

[MightyMach]

Well...okay here Goes. If everyone has been to the Garage, they obviously know We got the beast running. Wierd thing is this. ALL IT TOOK WAS A NISSAN SENTRA SMALL ASS BATTERY. Funny thing is, it sure did not want to work last night?? And it seemed to crank S-L-O-W- at first/when first started. After that, the damned thing ran fine. worked all day at the drag strip. (Go to The Garage to read up on that if interested).

Last Night I was going to take it to a car show in another City. Maybe it was God telling me, No, Dont go. so maybe I was saved from something? Wierd

Jeff Given

 

[dark7068]

Glad things worked out and you made it to the track. Good job...

 

[CougarKid]

Yea, sometines I wish teh almighty would GET A FAX MACHINE!!!! glad it's running mach!

 

[Jimmys66]

Too funny. I know he usually throws the hint out there, but I'm usually too stupid to see it.