Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i looking at 3 different cams for my motor.


COMP Cams CL35-238-3 - COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

and

COMP Cams CL35-242-3 - COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

and

COMP Cams CL35-246-3 - COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com


the first one will work with the stock stall. would i notice a differnce in power/tq enough to make it worth getting one of the others and upgrading my torque converter to say a 1700 stall? all 3 cams are the same price.

im tryin to order one of these tonight.

oh and a little about the rest of the motor...

stock 351w bottom end
edelbrock performer heads
edelbrock air gap intake
demon 625 carb

its going to be a street car, not a strip car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,551 Posts
None of them.

I haven't had a bit of luck out of any off-the-shelf COMP camshaft. First custom cam I ordered cost more, but it knocked the poopie out of even the best COMP "custom" camshaft that I'd used up to that point. Better idle, quicker rev, more RPM, more torque, better MPG.

The last comp cam I bought was such a dog that I racked my brain for months trying to figure it out. Turned out that the timing events were off. But on another cylinder they were spot on. Sold it-explained it to the buyer, but he didn't care as all he wanted was a cam that would make it sound good. Sounded good to me. Went custom and haven't looked back yet. I've used Ed Curtis, Jay (no longer in business) and Cam Research. Even if Jay were still in business, he'd be the absolute LAST guy I'd go to for a camshaft. I'd get a junkyard cam and grind it on a bench grinder myself freehanded before I used his stuff. He makes good stuff but his customer service is....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Im running the XE268H-10. Works for me.
well about 30 seconds ago i place my order. ordered the XE262H. edelbrock air gap intake, 1'' carb spacer and line lock (just to have fun with and save my brakes) ordered form summit so it should all be here friday
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,184 Posts
I tried the spacer on two intakes: Performer 289 and RPM Airgap. Believe it or not I had better results using the regular performer with 1" spacer. The Airgap did not respond well to the spacer.

Matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I tried the spacer on two intakes: Performer 289 and RPM Airgap. Believe it or not I had better results using the regular performer with 1" spacer. The Airgap did not respond well to the spacer.

Matt
didnt respond well as in hurt the performance or as in no changes in performance?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,184 Posts
Definately hurt performance. I would maybe be inclined to use a 4 hole spacer instead of an open one. So far the best results for me has been the RPM Airgap with no spacer. Mind you I never did try the 4 hole spacer.

Matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
oh ok. well i got the 4 hole spacer style so. hopefully i dont run into issues. ill try it both ways i guess. if i dont like it ill sell it
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,216 Posts
I run a 268 hydraulic .480 lift in my truck. Its a great little cam for a stock to mild upgraded engine. Mild would be the basic bolt on's like intake, carb, headers, exhaust. Better ignition system is just graveyyyyy, LOL. I ported the heads in my truck and run a 700 to 1000 rpms above stock stall. I am in the process of installing a 3.25 pumpkin in it. You need something in the 3.00 to 3.25 range gears for this sort of cam, my opinion.

Once you get to the Mav's level of engine building I agree that a custom cam is the absolute best way to go. I'm having to juggle some trade off's in my mustang because of a pre-designed cam grind. Off the shelf for a milder build will work fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok well i did end up calling summit and switching to the 268. do you have a suggestion as to what stall i should be running? right now i have the stock stall and i have no idea what that is
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,479 Posts
I went with one of Comps "off-the-shelf" cams and love it! It's their XE274HR-12 (Duration 274/282, Lift .555/.565) but I'm running over 10.5:1 in a 347 stroker. The car sounds great and runs even better. I'm also running a 3.50 gear and a 3000 RPM stall converter which are also a big help.

You say the bottom end is stock so I'm guessing fairly low compression like 9:1 or so? I think you might have too much cam for that application unless your compression is more. I had some trouble finding the exact cam with the info provided though so maybe I'm missing something. :confused:

John
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,216 Posts
You really just need a looser stock converter to give you a bit more rpms from a dead stop. It helps the engine get up closer to where it makes power. I think a 2500 stall would be about right but it also depends on your gear and tire size. You want your cruise rpms out on the highway to be something above 2500 for a 2500 converter. Even with that low a stall you will want to run an external cooler I think also.

I took my transmission and converter to Jay at Broaderperformance and he re-worked everything. My transmission had a part broke inside. I needed it beefed up for pulling my car trailer also. I think having the stock converter loosened up would be enough. Jay can do that. He was recommended to me and I would also recommend him for this sort of thing. He did a great job on my stuff. It would be worth giving him a call.

You can also opt to just buy a 2500 stall converter off the shelf. They are generally in an 11 inch shell. A whole bunch of companies make these.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
looks like the flash stall will shortly jump up a little hire than the reg stall when stomped on from a stand still. so i think i will get a "advertised flash stall" of 2200
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,479 Posts
My TCI Street Fighter is advertised as a 3000 RPM stall (10") but as with any converter it all depends on the engine build (cam, compression, etc.), gears and car weight.

With mine it's almost not noticable until you punch the throttle. Very little slip in normal driving, enough "flash" that at cruising speeds you can stab the gas and it'll rev up to 3,000 quickly and off the line it'll let the motor get up REALLY quick. With my build and the rest I could actually go to a 3,500 or even 4,000 stall.

When I was running a moderately built 289 (300 HP/240ish TQ) I had a converter that was supposed to be 2,200 stall it did almost nothing and I wasn't happy at all. Once I went with the TCI that I have now it was night and day. I kept it and with the new stroker I'm still quite happy with it.

If you're not making lots of torque they won't stall as advertised so in my opinion you could go bigger without a problem. That is of course if you're running a little deeper gear like a 3.50:1, etc. to go along with it.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
cool thank you. yea i plan to run 3.5 gears. and tci seems to be the popular brand choice so i will probably go with them and it sounds like ill probably go with something between 2200 and 2600 for the stall.

unless with this info you can give me a better number to go with

3.5 rear gears
69 galaxie so say 4100 lbs
28'' tall tire
fmx trans (was going to use the c4 but am sticking with the fmx)
transgo stage 2 shift kit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,460 Posts
Your converter will do more for your package than almost any other single item. While I generally suggest an analysis and specific or custom converter for most applications, you don't have enough specific info yet, and may change your combo as you go anyway. So, in the meantime, you can use a cheap production converter to get started. Generally, they will not have the efficiency and performance of a properly matched and build custom unit, but will serve the purpose for now.

That much assumed, your stall should be about 200-300 rpm shy of your max torque for racing. For street, there is compromise in consideration of cruise slip and heat generation. Assuming a 27-ish inch tire, you should be in the more efficient highway cruise range at 60 and above. Using your general torque curve from Comp below, I'd say a good target is about 2600 to get most of the benefit without eating too many of the negatives. That's a best guess without having more info as to how it really runs with your parts combo. My 2 cents.

David

 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top