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Discussion Starter #1
Hi FE maniacs ! I am a newbie and I am not a mechanic,but I have a 64 Galaxie 500 2 dr. that I want to put a 428 stroker in.

What components would you folks use to build the engine from the oil pan to the carb.? I will be using the car mainly for the street. Also,is it possible to get 500 HP. at the wheels ?
I sure would be grateful for any input.....
Thanks in advance to all !
Red
 

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That is a LOT of horsepower to ask for at the rear wheels..Especially through a heavy automatic like a C-6...If you really want that much power from an FE it will be very expensive...You might want to go right for a bigger stroker like a 445 cube using a 390 block..If you already have the CJ heads in your sig those could work well on a nice street engine..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I thought about that also,it would make a lot more sense. If I did stroke the 390, what crank would you use ? I've been reading about the Scat 425 crank, or using a 428 crank....Let me know what you all think...
 

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500 RWHP is probably unrealistic, even from a 445. Using a 20% loss, that is 625 hp. You'd have to spin it very high with big dollar stuff or use a power adder, and in that case the block probably would split

If you are willing to go aftermarket block, a 4.25 stroke, 4.25 bore, with good heads should do what you want. Something similar or slightly above the build on my Mustang. However, that means professionally ported aftermarket heads, good valvetrain, a 427 block, etc.

Whats the budget? Because a 445 should get you to 500 FWHP which is nothing to sneeze at, but where you want to go gets more expensive.
 

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what parts would I use?

easy. first rebuild or buy a 31 spline third member in a fun gear ratio like 4.10's $400-$1200
buy 31 spline axles $300-$400
custom made driveshaft $400
sell that T10 as it won't survive the first romp on the throttle, either build a c6 or a toploader ($750-$1800)

buy BarryR's book on Max Performance FE's and build a simple 445ci engine that'd be in the neighborhood of 450hp 500ft lb
$8000 if your starting from scratch. Perhaps $4000 if you've got a set of heads and are willing to reuse 90% of the parts from a 390.

Personally, I'd rather have a stout transmission and rear end with a good gear ratio than a grossly powerful engine. A well built 390 with 4.10 gears ought to scare the crap out of you if driven properly.
 

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500 RWHP is probably unrealistic, even from a 445. Using a 20% loss, that is 625 hp. You'd have to spin it very high with big dollar stuff or use a power adder, and in that case the block probably would split

If you are willing to go aftermarket block, a 4.25 stroke, 4.25 bore, with good heads should do what you want. Something similar or slightly above the build on my Mustang. However, that means professionally ported aftermarket heads, good valvetrain, a 427 block, etc.

Whats the budget? Because a 445 should get you to 500 FWHP which is nothing to sneeze at, but where you want to go gets more expensive.
I'm making 470wheel outta my street driven 393 windsor through a c4 trans, so with another 50cubes he should be at 500+ wheel. Gonna cost a lot of money though. And it's not super easy driving it on the street either.
 

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I'm making 470wheel outta my street driven 393 windsor through a c4 trans, so with another 50cubes he should be at 500+ wheel. Gonna cost a lot of money though. And it's not super easy driving it on the street either.
Number games, unfortunately two things happen with FEs, they dont have good heads without spending mega bucks, SBFs are in much better shape there, and 390 blocks split if you get too rowdy. Intakes cost double, rockers are a thousand to spin that high. In the end, better to not shoot for a number, shoot for building for purpose.

Sure, he could go super rowdy, the C-6 will eat more than a C-4 as well, then its in a Galaxie. 500 RWHP just isn't realistic without going with a 427 based stroker

500 FWHP is pretty doable and still drivable, especially with a 4.25 stroke crank
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
sell that T10 as it won't survive the first romp on the throttle, either build a c6 or a toploader ($750-$1800)


Like I said, I'm new at this so what would be wrong with the super t-10 ? Will it not hold up as well as a c 6 ?

Thanks for all the great advice everyone, you are all a wealth of info.....
 

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I don't think the tranny is a Super T-10, if it is, cool

T-10 is an early transmission that wasn't as strong, 10 spline input, and I forget the output, 27 spline maybe, could have been even less depending on what it came out of. Galaxies got the T-10

Later, GM cars got the Super T-10. ThatThe ST-10 was now all alum, had a fine 26 spline input and the bigger 32 spline tail shaft.

The Super T-10 is stronger, but thinking that you were searching for a 600 hp motor, you could break it. The T-10 would almost definitely break with slicks on the car (without slicks it would spin so it'd probably last) LOL

If you build a big FE, I recommend either a big input toploader, converted to wide ratio, or a TKO-600 if its a street/strip car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
since reading what has been posted, I think I might just either keep the 390 I have where it is at or, find another 390 and start from scratch,bore it,stroke it ,etc. I had someone tell me to think about using an 391 FT block to build on.

I might try a stroker kit from Survival Motor Sports,have you ever bought from them before ?
The Richmond T-10 I have is aluminum,it was in the car when I bought it recently. I just found out that my rear end is a 278 ,guess I need to up that some like you all posted.
When you have to pay someone to turn wrenches for you(for now),it does get expensive ! , but I willing to learn and I have a good friend who has been around these FE's most of his life who wants to teach me. I just hope 50 isn't too old to start !
 

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I buy my parts direct and build for local guys, but Barry at Survival is a good guy and will treat you right, also a close friend and good supplier is Brent Lykins at B2 Motorsports, may want to talk to him too before you commit, he does some nice work.

B2 Motorsports LLC

Either won't steer you wrong if you have to pay someone for a build. nice thing about Brent is that he is only about 4 hrs from you and can give you a dyno proven package and probably have you right there watching it make the power
 

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for building rear ends, transmissions and whatnot check out Badshoe Productions. It's pretty easy to build something when a guy on a video walks you through each step.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, that all sounds great ,thanks for the valuable info !!!

Now for something different, I need to know if anyone can tell me a round about figure on what a 428 SCJ complete engine might be worth ? I don't have any block numbers, but the fellow who has it said it was bored .10 over because of age and some rust problems. The engine has been sitting for 20 + years and he wants to move it,probably too rich for my blood..... From what I've seen ,I'm guessing these stock engines can cost $10,000 and up.
I just found out about this today and the FE engine site servers are all bogged down......Thanks !
 

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others may disagree, but my take is forget about a CJ block... leave that for someone that just must have a cj engine.

Get a good standard bore 390 truck block D4TE is common and has reinforced webbing, these can be found for $150-$250 easily. Build 445 stroker and spend the extra $1000 on better heads
 

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extra $1000 on better heads <<< HA HA HA HA ... thats all they cost ? more like $1,500 then new springs for another $200 then another $1,000 for mild porting .... then another $100 for rocker studs, than another
$100 for head bolts , than another $1,000 for rockers .. hey your all set :) Been there done that ...;)
 

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ok, well lets say you have c1ae heads already in the car (not unheard of in a 64 Galaxie).
-CJ valves from Engbldr: $128
Engine Parts Network, Inc
-Mild Porting done at home, $100 for sandrolls, a few carbide bits, and a cheap die grinder.
-used I recently bought factory adjustable rockers that came with brand new studs $150
figure in the machine work to have it all assembled, springs, and hardened seats and I don't think I'm that off base in saying "put the extra $1000 into the heads"
 

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If you already have the 428 block the 4.250 crank will get you 462 cubes. If you just have a 390 you'll be looking at a 445. We done both. Lots and lots of them. I think I have about 50 of them on YouTube dyno videos.

You're probably not going to see 500 HP at the wheels through a C6. But you can very comfortably see 500 flywheel and 500TQ in a very streetable combination. Power is always good. No reason to be scared.

Using the modified factory heads or a set of off the shelf Edelbrocks will go around 450-475ish. To get much beyond that you need to upgrade the Ed heads. Tweaked factory stuff will eat up nearly a grand by the time you replace valves, guides, springs, retainers, machining, and some blend work if you're not buying junk parts. The off the shelf Eds are closer to $1500. Better parts yet are a grand more. I expect to to have another option soon..

The Scat crank and rods are fine. If the budget allows I prefer a hydraulic roller - power gain is small (10-20) but peace of mind has some value. You want to keep the compression under 10:1 in the Galaxie for pump gas. Big car, highway gears = heavy loading.

The factory T10 is on borrowed time in a stock application. The 445 will kill it unless you drive gently - especially with the 2.78 gear. . And who is going to drive gently in something like this? Upgrades are in your future.
 

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If you already have the 428 block the 4.250 crank will get you 462 cubes. If you just have a 390 you'll be looking at a 445. We done both. Lots and lots of them. I think I have about 50 of them on YouTube dyno videos.

You're probably not going to see 500 HP at the wheels through a C6. But you can very comfortably see 500 flywheel and 500TQ in a very streetable combination. Power is always good. No reason to be scared.

Using the modified factory heads or a set of off the shelf Edelbrocks will go around 450-475ish. To get much beyond that you need to upgrade the Ed heads. Tweaked factory stuff will eat up nearly a grand by the time you replace valves, guides, springs, retainers, machining, and some blend work if you're not buying junk parts. The off the shelf Eds are closer to $1500. Better parts yet are a grand more. I expect to to have another option soon..

The Scat crank and rods are fine. If the budget allows I prefer a hydraulic roller - power gain is small (10-20) but peace of mind has some value. You want to keep the compression under 10:1 in the Galaxie for pump gas. Big car, highway gears = heavy loading.

The factory T10 is on borrowed time in a stock application. The 445 will kill it unless you drive gently - especially with the 2.78 gear. . And who is going to drive gently in something like this? Upgrades are in your future.

I know lots of guys running Street solid rollers for years and miles with lots of idling and no issues. Street rollers are much less stress on valvetrain, but you still need to adjust lash at least once a year, or check it.

Don't fear the Street solid roller. Right set up and you make gobs of power and no failures. Blows Hydraulic away everytime.
 
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