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I would really appreciate your opinions on this 357W I have in my Mustang. First off, let me list the engine and car specifics as they are currently

357W:
•Factory 1969 351W Block bored .030 over
•Factory 351W cast crank
•Factory rods with ARP "wavelock" rod bolts
•TRW hypereutectic pistons
•Sealed Power rings
•Crane 272 hydraulic camshaft kit
•Heavy duty Cloyes timing set
•Clevite 77 bearings
•ARP Head bolts
•World Products Windsor Sr. iron heads (unported and are the pre-assembled ones from World) These are the older original World Windsor Sr.'s by the way
•Screw in studs and guideplates
•Comp Cams pushrods
•Crane "Hi Intensity" roller rockers
•Balanced and blueprinted
•JBA Mid length shorties ( 1 5/8&quot

•Edelbrock Performer RPM intake man
•Holley 650 with Vacuum secondaries
•MSD Pro-Billet distributor and MSD 6A box

Car:
•1970 Mustang Sportsroof, full interior, A/C, power steering, 17" wheels
•AOD trans with heavier duty bands and clutches and 2,300 rpm stall converter
•3.55:1 open differential


OK, so that's the car as it is equipped today. The interesting thing is that when I bought the engine as a long block some time ago, it was supposed to come with World Windsor JR. heads with "stage 1 porting", not Windsor SR's with no porting! It is now an interesting hodgepodge of parts when you have a very mild cam with power that cuts off before 5,000 RPM, and yet you have heads with 200cc intake runners! I had this car dynoed once and it put down 242 RWHP @4,700 RPM and about 310 ft-lbs of torque @ 3,300 RPM.

I want to wake this car up and I could really use your advice. I would like to keep the car streetable, but I want it to be significantly quicker than it is right now. I'd like it to be capable of running low 12's (or even high 11's if that's anywhere near possible for a liveable stock stroke street 357W) I would still like to be able to take this car on long trips through the mountains, cruises and stuff

This is not currently my daily driver, but it has been in the past, and I don't think I want to make it so that it's no fun on the street anymore.

My ideas so far are as follows:
•Verify that static compression ratio is around 9.5-1, and if not, mill the heads to achieve this or whatever ratio would be most appropriate (heads have 64cc combustions chambers so I could have low compression if builder meant to install windsor JR. heads)
•Port heads or have them ported (prob can't afford to have a pro do them)
•Install roller cam with the roller lifters that have the bars that connect them in pairs (I want to get a custom grind per recommendation of a pro)
•Change out Performer RPM intake and put in a Victor Jr.
•Change out valvesprings and hardware, possibly valves too if the pre-assembled Manley ones suck

My budget right now is probably $1,400-$1,500.

Am I living in a fantasy world or do you think I could change the personality of this car given what it already has and what I have to spend?

Thanks for your help!
 

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I think your on the right track with the engine.The 2300 stall and 3.5 gears aren't exactly dragstrip stuff though...You'll have to decide how quick you want to go vs how much mountain cruising your going to do.The AOD will help with crusing rpms if you go for a lower gear.
 

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Theres lots more power in there for that engine if you add a cam thatll help breathing at higher RPM at least have peak power above 5250RPM. Id keep the performer RPM and just change the cam and valvesprings.with your budget just get a non roller cam and get a detroit locker and some 4.11's or something cuz without traction youll never hit 12's much less 11's. you mighht be able to get away with the 2300 stall by moving up the gears. With the cam and gears it MIGHT feel as torquey as it does now and itll definately pull much harder.BTW you might blow through $1500 faster than you might think just FYI
 

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I too, would keep the Performer RPM intake as it is an excellent working piece. A cam swap to a sensible roller cam will help, as would probably a little bit more stall speed.
What is your current ET's with this combo??
Take it to the track and just have fun and get in a few runs to get a baseline for it, then you will be able to tell what needs to be changed in order to improve upon it.
 

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If you put in more cam you will need more stall. If you increase the RPM much more you will need to get some forged pistons. At around 6000 - 6200 RPM the inertial forces start to break anything that is not forged. (you can get away with occasional running up to 6000 with cast or Hypers but if you are going to spend any time there or higher you will need to get the forged pistons.)
The carb is too small for the potential of the engine a 780 w/ vacuum secondaries will work well and you won't lose too much throttle responce with it. you are going to need to turn this engine at 6 - 7000 RPM to get a 3700 pound car into the low 12's or high 11's.
Change the carb (720 - 780), cam (296/306 adv or 236/246 SAE), converter (3500 rpm) and rear gears (3.75 - 4.10) and it will fit well with most of what you have. You should probably change those headers to 4 into 1 long tube headers. That will give you close to what you want and still be "streetable" for the most part. Ford SVO sells the cam - its the one they use in their SVO Windsor engines and it wil pull strong through 6000 RPM. If you get any more cam than that you will need to go to solid lifters (it is hydraulic) and you will need to get forged pistons.
Paul
 
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