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I'm doing a restomod on a 66 mustang with a 347 stroker, hoping to have about 350-400 rwhp once I'm finished.

The car will be a weekend driver but will also see regular time at the strip.

It has T5 transmission and currently 4 wheel manual drum brakes.

I'm going with front disc brakes at a minimum, but there's a lot to choose from and a wide price range, so i was hoping to get some advice.

Manual or power? I assume I need power
Front disc or 4 wheel disc?
Specific suggestions on kits would be GREATLY appreciated, as would any other advise

I'd prefer to get into my brakes for under $1500 total. If i have to go a little higher to get it right, I'd rather pay once than twice, but there would need to be a convincing reason.


Thanks
 

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I already had front disc on mine but i will say that after adding the rear disc brakes it made a huge diffrence in how controlled it felt when stopping fast.

i used a kit for the back from speedway that ran about 400.00 dollars and to my amazement it fit very well with me just having to do very minor grinding in two places.
 

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Thanks ROG30Y. That gives me a place to start. Now I just have to find a decent front disc upgrade.

Do you have power brakes?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I spoke with Dennis at Csrp tonight and I think I'm going to get my front discs from him. There power booster won't fit a 66 with manual transmission so it looks like I'll have manual brakes
 

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Manual brakes are not an issue for performance. Consider that the vast majority of racing cars do not use power brakes. Power brakes can be used to cover for some fudging in parts combinations and setup. Manuals must be set-up properly, with an appropriate MC bore area, brake pedal ratio, and caliper bore area to give the proper braking with appropriate force for the specific use. In drag cars, the length of pedal throw is relatively unimportant, and so a relatively smaller MC bore or greater pedal ratio can be used to give massive braking power.

Personally, I prefer manual brakes in almost everything. If performance is important, then realize you can't cut corners, and so even your brake pads should be of the proper performance type. If desired, manual brakes and performance pads can give you as much or more stopping power as standard power brake combinations at the same pedal force. It's all in the numbers, so be sure to be specific with your supplier, so they know how to set you up properly.

David
 

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Manual brakes are fine for every application except for granny who doesn't have enough leg muscle to push the pedal down. In fact, I personally think manual brakes are easier to modulate and control the car than power assisted brakes are.

Granada front discs and there are lots of rear disc choices. I ran Explorer 8.8 rear discs. They worked good. Exactly the same as the M2300 Ford Racing kit that I believe is now discontinued. Pretty much just bolts on with the exception of the park brake cables-which I never messed with. I've also run GM S-10/Sonoma 4x4 front discs on the rear...works great, but no park brake and had to re-drill the rotors which is really easy to do if you have an old axle laying around. Currently using Aerospace 4 piston kit...which I will not buy again due to their poor customer service. They are light and pretty though.
 

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i used factory 1969 falcon front discs on mine and they made a big difference, manual master cylinder from a mustang 2 and it has no problem hauling my car down from 120 mph and they were cheap.
 

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I lucked onto a 71 mustang and got the front spindles off it. I had to buy everything else but the proportioning valve. If memory serves I got a 1" piston manual dual master cylinder that was made for a 70 something 3/4 ton truck. 71 mustang outer tie rod, 71 mustang disc, 71 mustang calipers, 71 mustang brake hoses. I got a pre made section of brake line from Napa for the extra line. There are several different master cylinders that will work for the conversion. I have no problem stopping from wide open on the race track(115 or so). I didn't have to get a separate proportioning valve for it. The one off the 71 mustang works fine. The only bad part was spending 4 hours out in the fire ants and blistering sun trying to separate the spindles from the seized up ball joints and tie rod ends.

They didn't make stuff like this when I did my conversion;
Scott Drake
 

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The first obstacle to making specific recommendations is the diameter wheels you will use front and rear. Factory disc conversions from Fords up through 1980 (early Granada, all Maverick, 65-73 Mustang, etc.) have 10-11" rotors and will fit most 14" stock steel wheels and 15" alloy or larger. Other conversions like the later 12.5" Mustang GT or 13" Cobra swaps require 17" wheels to clear. Whatcha runnin'?

David
 
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