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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could someone with a properly functioning neutral safety/backup light switch post a pic of theirs please? Mine is missing something, probably a spring and maybe another part or two but I can't guess what. Here's a pic...




The cool but frustrating thing about this is that by messing with that switch I've discovered that my backup lights work. Both of 'em! I just need to get my switch working and I'll have backup lights. Not to mention it probably would be a good idea to make it not be able to start the motor while it's in gear...
 

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Way to funny.. sorry but today I was putting in new carpet in my 1965 and tada... mine is exactly the same way yours is.. I think there is a spring inside that switch maybe... hope someone has the right answer though because i need to fix mine too. and my carpet is red too! sorry.. was just coincidence i was going to post the same thing tonight..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Spring inside the switch huh? Makes sense, I'll have to pull the switch apart and see if I can spot a problem. Right now the plastic pin stays at the left end of the travel of the metal arm. Arm moves right and the pin stays put.

Red 65 James? Good choice!! ;)
 

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WW, whe have a lot of the same issues with our 65's. Here is an old post on this one

Re: Neutral Safety Switch
When my 65 NSS went bad I used a 5/16 open end to squeeze in there to loosen the nuts and I saw the sliding lever was sticking so I pulled the switch. Even after filling it with WD40 it is not smooth. What contributes to the problems is the terminals are loose and when the elec is plugged back in it will easily push the terminals inside the switch. When that happens they block the travel of the slide.

For those future readers who may wonder how the switch works, I will tell you. The two terminals on the left are the backup light circuit (black-red wires) and the two on the right are on the ignition-starter relay circuit. A spring pushes the slider to the right when it is not held back by the shift lever. On the slider are the two contacts that close the terminals' circuits as it slides.

In Park the situation is like this diagram below. On the terminal there are two contacts, the "L" is for lights, the "I" leads to the starter. On the slider, the knob "o" which has no contact beneath it, is shown lined up with the "L" terminal above it. This is Park and the backup lights are not on. To the right of the knob is a contact lined up with the "I" terminal, so the ignition is startable. To the far left is another slider contact, lined up with nothing.

terminal L I
slider. x o x

The car will start because the ignition contact is hot. Shift to the right one click (reverse) and it won't start (knob "o" under the ignition terminal) but the back up lights will come on ("x" on left is now closed with the backup lights "L". Another shift to the right (neutral) and the car will start but the lights will go off. another shift and we are in gear. All the slider contacts are past the circuit contacts - no lights, no start.

To reassemble, Dead's advice is to put the car in reverse and slide the switch until the lights come on. That is the best way to line it up because there is only one switch position that will pass that test (ie, the knob will be lined up with the ignition contact).

I gave the switch a good washing and tried to superglue the terminals so they will stay put. Then I greased the slide. However, that refurbishment plan did not work out. Don't know why, really. Maybe wrong kind of glue. Got the slide working smoothly but it would not contact the terminals. New one C5AZ cost $22, a great deal and it worked great.

To guard against future failure I stripped 1/4" from both the ignition wires and used an alligator clip to keep them apart. Should the switch fail in the future, I'll use the alligator on the bare wires to close the circuit.

Truth be told when the car was frequently dying last year I bypassed the switch. That way if I was coasting through an intersection and the engine died I could just turn the key and fire it back up. Much safer!

here is a not too useful pic.

tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's excellent info and the pic is right on. After a bit more research it seems that is a partial part number and the complete number might be C5AZ-7A247. Too bad my googling didn't turn one of those up though, or at least not one that looked right. Where did you end up buying your replacement switch?
 

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Bought it on e-bay, something like $22 plus $22 shipping. However, because I read every detail in the long description about the shipper, I discovered that he was here in Houston so I just went over and picked it up. In this way, reading has saved money for me many times and now I am a millionire.

putts
 

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Bought it on e-bay, something like $22 plus $22 shipping. However, because I read every detail in the long description about the shipper, I discovered that he was here in Houston so I just went over and picked it up. In this way, reading has saved money for me many times and now I am a millionire.

putts
Hey I was wondering can you give me the direct name of the seller that sold this part. I am looking for one for my dad. He is restoring a 1964 galaxie 500.

thanks
 

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I'm guessing here, but-
the two-speed Ford-o-matic is going to have more shifter travel than the 3-speed that is likely in your Galaxie. unsure if using a two-speed switch would prevent you from being able to shift into 1st gear.
 

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Shouldn't have anything to do with 1st gear. The switch only uses P, R, and N, after that the arm moves away from the pin on the switch. The only thing I would be concerned with is if the spacing is the same for P, R and N. I guessing but I would think it should be the same????
 

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In looking at page 382 of the 1960-1964 Ford parts catalog (text section), it looks like the base part number for all 1964 Galaxie neutral switches is C3AZ-7A247. For a fixed column with an F/M/2, the suffix is -N (so C3AZ-7A247-N). For a moveable column with F/M/2 transmission, it's -R. For a column shift C/M (no mention of movable/non-movable), it's -L. And for a C4 transmission it's C4AZ-7A247-C (not C3AZ-) with a note that this works for column or console shift. For a console shift C/M, it's -M.

Where F/M/2 is "Fordomatic 2 speed single range", C/M is "Cruise-O-Matic 3 speed" and C4 is of course the C4 transmission.

One other note about this thread - the first posts from 10 years ago are relating to a switch for a 1965 Galaxie. The posts from this week are asking about a 1964.

Pat

edit: correction of the P/N for the C4 column/console switch.
 
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