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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI,
Glade to find this forum, it seems awesome !!!

Question : I just received my new 331 stroker SHORT BLOCK paid over $ 3,000 for it, and did not expect all the rust in the water passages ? It will plug my radiator in no-time !
Is this normal ? What should I do ?

Any help will be greatly appreciated !!!

Here is just a few pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks I'll give it a go.
When a WELL known engine builder starts the process don't they dip the block in a machine or "wash" it ? Paying that kind of money I didn't expect to see that much corrosion & rust ? I don't think even looked inside, or they just ignored it !! Not right for $ 3,400

Thanks !
 

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In ANY machine shop the engine builder removes the heads crank intake oil pan etc...etc... and takes out the block plugs, galley plugs and every other bolt on application to the engine.

Then they either soak it in a hot tank or they use a washer with moving parts and abotu 200* water with a very caustic solution.

That's pretty much the extent of it. When I worked at a machine shop rebuilding engines I ALWAYS used a water hose and tipped the block both ways while rinsing it and shot water into the passages to remove the rust scale. Some places don't because they're lazy.
 

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Agreed. Not normal, though rust coloring (not the chunks) can be normal depending on the cleaning method used. I would first ask the builder (in writing by email or FAX) what to do about it. Hopefully you'll get some good advice and maybe some credit for basic work not done. It also serves to establish events in-case other stuff is weird. Sometimes it's skipped by accident and others on-purpose, but it nearly always leads to cooling issues either due to crap in the cooling and heating systems, or the crud still stuck in there insulating the block from the coolant for poor heat transfer. It's hard to tell with one little photo how much adhered buildup there is, but heat does not travel through rust and mineral buildups very well. We see a lot of that on here with non-functional heaters, overheating engines, and general misery at least partly due to poor cleanouts.

It's not a show-stopper, but depending on the answers, continue with FE's suggestions. Be sure to seal-off open areas to keep dust and crap out during the cleaning. In-fact, I would seal-off everything, then open the deck coolant holes, pull the core plugs, flip it over and start blowing with an extended nozzle. A little rod action may help loosen sediment layers and knock looser chunks off. It's a bummer, and extra work for you, but you'll end-up fine. Good luck!
:bicker:
David
 

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Looks fine to me. If you want a new block, pay the cash, if you don't, you will have this its normal.
 

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As stated below some place block in a hot tank with chemicals and water . I have helped speed shop clean blocks and they have as stated below a hot tank that boils a block a couple days , then goes to be decked for an extra bit of power. I noticed just as the grinder passes and done with the decking the top of the block will start to rust as soon as it comes out. They spray the blocks down that stops rust. All during the build the blocks are clean . As fe stated I donot think they placed yours in a hot tank. As stated probably not hurt it after you clean some. Yes I would address the builder about it , if nothing else just to see his answer on why not hot tanked.
 

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I've seen worse. The local shop I use initially cleans the block in a degreaser oven then, after the machine work, uses a hot spray tank. I've cleaned them myself by filling the block with CLR overnight then using a garden hose. LOL
 

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I would take a few minutes and call CHP about it. They are a good shop and I've heard nothing but good things about them over the years - that's why I also bought my short block from them. I've also heard stories about their warranties where they replaced broken parts and blocks, even on race applications where they were at fault.

Give them the benefit of the doubt and a chance to make it right - if it isn't. You may get some compensation or a replacement if that's in order.

John
 

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Now that you've revealed the builder, I agree that their standards are generally much higher. Having seen a couple CHP short blocks, I have not seen scale and junk in them before, and is likely an oversight. I would give benefit of the doubt. While it may not be reasonable to do much about it now, they should treat you properly as their reputation indicates. Mistakes happen from time-to-time, and fortunately this is a relatively minor one, and more of an irritant to deal with than anything.

David

PS: to the post about a 'new' block - nobody expects a new appearance from a seasoned block, but even the most basic levels of engine building expect clean. No loose junk and no scale.
 

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PSIG is right. My builder has done alot I donot agree with being my money but I still beleive in all he does . Maybe I should not agree to jump his bone about it, clean block and proceed forward. My shop wants me to build a 428 with no cross bolts and paint aluim heads blue for a cinda sleeper motor , but screw that. A motor with 2 4s tunnelwedge is no sleeper and I want aluim heads and intake shinny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I need to talk with Mr. O'neal. My emails to Eric just don't get returned.
I placed the order for the 331 short block on December 28, I was told 2-3 weeks at the most for the pro street.
I just received the block on the 2/20/12 ? I emailed CHP on my lifters 2 days ago that I should of had weeks ago, no reply ? I made many calls I just get "there in the mail" or some other brush off ?

I never did or said anything to make them act like that, I'm just really fed up, & really had my fill.

Maybe I should take a few days & chill maybe work on my Truck ?

You don't know how much I appreciate all your help Guys !!!
 

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Just curious and slightly off topic but why the 331 over their 347?

I bought 347 "Pro Street" from them a little over 2.5 years ago and have had zero problems so far. I also bought roller lifters, a Pro Street harmonic balancer and Scorpoin roller rockers from them and they helped me choose my cam (which I installed) and I'm happy about the way it turned out.

Just thought I'd mention it.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey John,
The 331 will be installed in a "Dayle Driver" 81 F-250 So I just wanted a step up from the 5.0

I do have a 65 F-100 with a 428 interceptor, 4 speed, Ford 9" that will give me that push in my seat if I can hook up ?
Also a Cobra with a 351...

(the 428 with original intake pictured)

Terry
 

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It is, depending on where the click is coming from and how loud it is. It's probably piston rock typical of cold forged pistons in a cold bore, but could be from a dozen different sources. Use a bit of tubing to your ear to listen, or a screwdriver placed on each part in-turn to determine the source. Also try pressing on the edge of the piston to see if that changes or reduces the sound. Most importantly, if you find it's coming from a piston - is it relatively the same for all pistons when in the same position? If so - you're fine.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank You !!!

I'll try to pinpoint the noise, but I think you are right-Piston Rock !

I must say what an awesome forum, I can't believe all the knowledge & you guys are so articulate..Two thumbs Up !

I found a home......

Terry
 

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=1 Im pretty new here too, and very impressed with the responses and willingness of people to help,and help you help yourself ;-)
Thank You !!!

I'll try to pinpoint the noise, but I think you are right-Piston Rock !

I must say what an awesome forum, I can't believe all the knowledge & you guys are so articulate..Two thumbs Up !

I found a home......

Terry
 
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