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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys! Im new here and also new to the ford muscle car world. Just picked up a 1964 galaxie 500 yesterday. Was restored some 10 years ago or so, repainted, some body patching was done and such. Not original and not perfect, but a good starting place for a street rod in the future:)

That being said, I have a few questions...
The Speedometer is way off, like 15 mph higher than it should be. My dad was following me on the highway on the ride back and said I was going 55 when my speedo said 65-70 (varies a bit). Now, the rims are aftermarket 15 inch american racing, tires look roughly stock size, not enough of a difference to thow it off that far, I don't think. Speedo is stock but the tranny is a c6. Would it possibly be just a worn out speedo cable, or just the different tranny?

One other thing is the gauge lights don't illuminate, and the reverse lights don't light up. Haven't checked any bulbs yet, but my dad said on his 62 galaxie the reverse lights and the gauge lights use the same fuse and for me to check the fuses. Not a big deal that they don't work, but it'd be nice if they did lol. Any help is appreciated!

Anyways, glad to be on here and hope to be for a long time!
 

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You'll probably have to get a new gear for the tranny end of the speedo cable since it's been changed to a C6. Any tranny or rearend change from stock along with tires/wheels can change it. Mine used to read 70 or something like that when going 55 and the faster i went the further off it was. I think at 65 it read 80mph. I changed gears and got it down to 5 mph off and finally after changing rear gears the 2nd time i am now accurate. I never bothered when it was 5mph off as that's easier on the eyes than 15mph off and easier to calculate in my little mind. lol

The gauge lights could be the fuse, does your tail lights work though? I think my tail lights and dash lights are on the same fuse. It also could be just the gauge cluster isn't grounded well which will also cause them not to work. If the fuse is good, try cleaning the prongs that hold the fuse. If that doesn't do it, it is easy to check the ground of the dash by running a wire to some bare area on the dash from say the gear shift handle or something to test it. Mine didn't work after painting the cluster and found it was a ground issue and needed to clean some paint out of the holes where the screws went in.

If you have a sloppy gear shift handle it might be hanging to low to accuate the back up lights. Raise the gear shift handle a bit when in reverse and see if they light up. If they do i think you can adjust the thing that activates them but i don't know for sure. Oops, is yours floor shift or column? If floor shift someone else will have to answer on the back up lights cause you sure can't hold up on the shift lever with that. :) Could be with the tranny swap they didn't hook up whatever needs hooked up.

AND, welcome to the forum!! Great to have another Galaxie owner on board!! Don't forget to post a pic...everyone will be asking for one. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hmmmm, yeh i thought about the gearset being wrong or just worn out lol. That would make sense as to why is't so fricken far off!! I'm assuming that if the cruise o matic speedo set up interchanges that the builder probably just used that.. So would a stock set up for a C6 work? Or are there aftermarket sets designed for these kinds of swaps?

I'll have to try wiggling the shifter around and see what turns up there (yeh its a column shifter lol). Didn't get a chance to check the fuse block yet but hopefully I'll get a look see at it this week. Seemed weird to me that other lights on the dash worked, just not the illumination itself. The GEN light comes on before I start the car as does the hi beam indicator, if that means anything. Anyways, looks like I got a bit of work to do!
 

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I think it's the neutral safety switch that works with the backup lights. So if lifting up on the gear shift handle doesn't make the backup lights work then it's time to check elsewhere. Starting with checking the bulbs and cleaning the bulb socket with some emery cloth or super fine sandpaper or something. And of course fuse box and the neutral safety switch which is on the column.

The generator and oil light should be on with just the key on but not the high beam. I wonder if they didn't mix those up or the wires mixed up at some time. Have you turned the lights on and hit the dimmer switch to see if it goes out or if your oil light comes on. lol That would be a sure indication someone mixed them up! I don't know much about the little plastic gears but would think they are the same for cruiso or c6. I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong! Only swap i've done is from medium to small case cruiso.

Wiring issues are frustrating! Good luck, i'm sure you'll get it all figured out. Who knows, maybe someone had the gauge cluster out and the bulbs aren't pushed into the holes all the way. I have had mine out a couple times and only once completely, labeled all the wires and still ended up sticking the turn signal bulb into the oil light hole so the oil light flashed when turning the signal on. lol Even put the steering wheel back on upside down once cause i was in a hurry as i had to pick my son up at school, now that is an odd feeling or however you describe it when going around a corner lol
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I got into it a bit more today and wiggled the lever around in reverse, park, and neutral. Nada. So now I guess it's time to move to the fuse box. I plan to check the fuses and the wire contacts to the box itself. I remember I had an issue like this with my 1984 Cadillac hearse when I had it. It was with the power windows and locks in that car, turned out to be a corroded connection to the fuse box. So I'm thinkin that could be a possibility..

As for the wires being mixed up, thank God that's not happening in my car lol. I turned the dimmer all the way til rear pillar lights and floor lights came on, and nothing else came on there. Seems it's just the dash illumination and the reverse lights that aren't working, everything else seems to be in place:tup:

Hopefully I get some time on Saturday to check it out. Gonna check out the rear end as well and try to I.D. what it is, and then try and I.D. what year my engine was made. Does anybody know where Ford stamped the manufacture dates on the heads? I know where the block date is stamped but can't seem to find any info on the heads date stamp:confused: First guess for me would be under the valve cover somewhere but I dunno lol. I do need to figure out the date of manufacture asap so I know whether or not to run lead substitute! It's a 429 (or even possibly a 460 I spose) D3VE A-2-A on the heads and intake, thats all I got so far lol
 

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If the engine isn't going to be used for racing or heavy loads, from discussions here you won't need to worry about the lead substitute. Especially on an engine that has a lot of miles on it. I don't know if the engine i have now has the hardened ones but the one before that didn't and i never used any, don't use it in this one either. I just cruise around town more than anything cept once a year when i go to oregon and that is only but 4 1/2 drive on the freeway. You can search for threads on it here to see what everyone said bout it though.

The head casting numbers are in between cylinders 2 & 3 (passenger side) and cylinders 6 & 7 (driver side).

The head casting dates in between cylinder 2 & 3 (passenger side) and cylinders 6 & 7 (driver side), under the valve covers.


As for the backup lights, durn that was just too easy a fix! Unless it is still the fuse holders as mine were a mess after my car sat for 20 yrs, used a dremel and cleaned all of the prongs off and that cured most of the issues. Some other issues were the bulb sockets themselves. Might check the adjustment of your neutral safety switch as it still could be that not getting contact at all with the shifter. Even though i don't think it would start them now that i think about it.

Possible the light switch is bad also when it comes to the dash lights. It has like a spring wrapped over a ceramic disk and sometimes they get corroded or the spring breaks and then the dash lights don't work. You might be able to remove it and clean it up some. If you decide to check that if all else fails. To remove it reach behind the dash and feel on top of the light switch and you'll feel a button, push it down and pull the knob on the switch and it will pull out. Then you can see how to remove the rest it from there.

You could also wrap a piece of wire or speaker wire with the end stripped around a screw or touch it to one of the screws holding the cluster and then to the window frame or lower dash or any metal that would ground it and see if that does it. Good chance it's just corrosion on the fuses but who knows when it comes to electrical. lol
 

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Shotrod64 beat me to it, I had the same problem with my dash lights and after checking everything else and getting a copy of my wiring diagram, my trusty ole test light showed me there was no power at the switch terminal. With a new switch and some new blue LEDs in place of the old dash lights "on my 66 they had a blue plastic cover over all the instrument lights" problem solved.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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Discussion Starter #9
LOL I didn't think of the switch neither! I'll add that to the list of things then I guess.. at least it's easy to get at:) I made a nice revelation today on the car too! I was hooking up a tach and so I removed the air cleaner so I had more room to set up the wire on the coil, and found out I have a Holley 4 barrel with a intake spacer:tup: So my mods list just got a little shorter anyways! Not sure what size it is but I'm assuming its a 750. Either way when I get my heads and manifold I have the carb already at least.

Tomorrow I plan to dive into the wiring for the dash and see what I can figure out. Hopefully I can get it going as it'd be really nice to see the speedo and gas gauge at night lol
 

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This is only my opinion for a stock 390 or whatever engine you may have, but hopefully it's a 650, I think 750 is over kill. But that's just me. Not to mention i don't like holleys. It might be a 750 but more often people put a 650 on there. I couldn't tell you the difference though but i know others here can. Plus if that is what you are wanting it's a good thing you might be able to scratch it from the list. Good luck on your quest! lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, nothing on the lighting issues yet:( did an in depth visual inspection of the wiring under the das, then tested some of the wires going to the bulbs with my el cheapo volt meter, nothing turned up there... I'm thinkin it's gotta be the switch now. I'll pull it and check it out when I get a chance. Just got my shop manual in the mail so that should help ALOT! lol.

It is a 429 under my hood, which is why I assumed it'd be a 750 on there. Heads are the low comp mid 70's D3VE heads so I'm looking into getting some better heads atm. Thinkin of finding some D0VE heads if I can and gettin em ported, as this seems cheaper than buying a set of aluminum heads.
 

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Dang gremlins, pretty sure they breed under the dash and hood on these cars.


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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Does RAID work to exterminate them??? Lol that'd be nice wouldn't it? That reminds me of my old Escort I had in high school... Got in the car one day and it was a bit chilly outside, my buddy gets in the passenger side and as soon as I start the car, turns on my heater. That very second, a spider comes flying out of the dash vent on his side! Now, we both hate spiders with a passion, so we immediately freaked and jumped out of the car. I quickly went into the house and found the only thing I could that'd kill spiders, a huge can of raid. I went back outside and applied the raid extremely liberally to my dash vents and under the dash, just in case that lil bastard spider had and friends in there with him lol. The car reeked like raid for well over a month and I had to do without the heat or air being on because of it! Any who... lol
Hopefully that switch doesn't give me any issues when I try and pull it.. Know of any places that sell repros of those light switches?
 

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You can find them on ebay and a lot of times at the local parts stores. Then there are these places but check local parts first and compare prices.

MAC's Antique Auto Parts

Ford Ranchero, Ford Falcon, Ford Fairlane, Ford Torino, Mercury Comet, and Mercury Montego Parts Online - Ford Parts

Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100 Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts This might be _ and not - between the names.

RockAuto Auto Parts

Greg Donahue Collector Car Restorations

Bookmark all these as they are the main sources for your gal.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well, I ordered one from O'Reilly, was like 8 bucks. Now, weather permitting, I'm gonna install it tomorrow afternoon along with my footprint gas pedal lol. Wish me luck! Hope it'll work.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
And thanks for those links to shotrod! I just bookmarked em all, I'm sure they'll help me out in the future!
 

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Good luck!
I had one of those foot prints on the gas pedal and the dimmer switch in the '70s, hated them. More so the dimmer switch because you had to push on it perfectly level to dim the lights and i can barely reach it so was difficult. Don't remember now why i didn't like the gas pedal one. Maybe you will not like it either and can remind me. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Good luck!
I had one of those foot prints on the gas pedal and the dimmer switch in the '70s, hated them. More so the dimmer switch because you had to push on it perfectly level to dim the lights and i can barely reach it so was difficult. Don't remember now why i didn't like the gas pedal one. Maybe you will not like it either and can remind me. LOL
Yeah I got the footprint set up, and immediately did away with it lol. The pedal hits the tranny tunnel at WOT, which makes it useless lol. As for the dimmer, I left that on there cuz it stops me from accidentally hitting the brights, as I regularly rest my left foot over by it. I just ordered a repro galaxie 500 xl pedal assembly, but it doesn't seem to sit close enough to the arm. When pressed all the way down, it will slip under the arm, not good! lol. So I'm back to square one. I'm now trying to figure a way to mount it closer without re drilling the holes in the floor. Any ideas???
 

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I'm having a similar issue with a new repro of the original pedal. I haven't installed it yet, but I'm strongly considering bending the stock arm upward a little bit so that it fits better. Anybody ever try bending that solid throttle rod ?? After installing new carpet, matting and underlayment the floor is just too thick to get a good angle on the pedal mating to the rod as designed. Actually looks like the rod may have been bent down slightly to be used with no pedal, but I am not liking the bare rod idea at all. I haven't drilled any holes yet but I'm ready !! Finally got the carpet installation marathon completed. I'm sure glad they didn't skimp on interior hardware ! Wholly smokes ! Clearly, weight was not a concern in 1964. Probably why the car still exists today. Heavy Metal Rules !
 
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