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well I don't post a lot on this forum but I thought I would share a little experience from this past weekend at Fun Ford in Texas.

I changed solenoids from the NOS to the Induction Solutions solenoids and purchased their fuel flow tool to check pressures. I had been running 6.29-6.35 in the heat with the old set up flowing 5.25 pressure through my electric gauge which is mounted on a pod in the car. Once I changed solenoids The system only flowed at 5 psi so I increased the pressure to 5.75 and changed the fuel jet from a 22 to a 20. New set up was 24 nitrous 20 fuel and 5.75 flowing pressure.The car responded very good with new personal best and the elusive 9 sec time slip. Unfortunately the car burned the #5 plug strap on the last pass. The car was dialed in at 9.73 and it ran a 9.89 and was off 4 mph. Come to find out the plug heat range was a little hot for the new tune. E85 likes a hot plug so I run -7's and the since #1 and 5 are a little lean on a SBF I nipped plug.

I am still happy with the weekend. I burned the # 5 exhaust valve so I have some work to do but all is good. The plan is to go to a # 8 heat range and Lower the nitrous jet to 22's in the corners. Looking forward to a little more power as the tempm cools here in Texas. Hope someone learns something from the post
 

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I can't even imagine what a 9 second pass is like or a 10.
They are similar to 11s passes, except they are over quicker, and your smile muscles cramp-up all the time.
:D
David
 

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Cahorne - have you been tuning your ignition and fuel with your spark plugs? How are they reading? If you're not running a WBO2 and EGT set to fine-tune - I would. Nothing beats max power and peace-of-mind in one shot.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cahorne - have you been tuning your ignition and fuel with your spark plugs? How are they reading? If you're not running a WBO2 and EGT set to fine-tune - I would. Nothing beats max power and peace-of-mind in one shot.

David
I have ran the Wide Band for tuning purposes prior to the solenoid change. I did not figure the solenoid change would make as much difference. I usually pull a plug out of #1 about every 10th pass just to take a look. With E85 the plug is always so clean it is a little tough to read but for the most part the timing marks and heat have looked good. I am pretty sure I had the right amount of fuel and timing taken out but the heat range of the plug was too hot. NGK-7's are great on E85 N/A but I should have put in a colder plug especially since I was running 1/4 mile for the first time.

In related news... The exhaust valve seems fine but I think I hurt a piston. I do not have a leak down gauge but I put 100 psi in #5 hole and the air was coming back though the crank case pretty good and nothing through the exhaust. A new piston and ring pack might be in my future. I hope it is nothing else. Last week was very busy so I have not got the head off yet but I think I will get a look on Wed or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow! You've got that thing flying. Congrats on the new best. Those are always fun.
Thanks Vinyl66.. right now it is pretty grounded.. hope to have it back out next month.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good to see you back here Cahorne..Congrats on the new PB..That car was always very impressive..
Thanks Frdnut. I like the people on this site but do not have the patience to wait on this site!!! I guess it is my short attention span but the incredibly slow updates of this site wears me out!!!
 

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Congratulations! That car has had a lot of changes from what I remember. Always love to hear about a fast early Mustang that still looks like it could cruise down the street.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Congratulations! That car has had a lot of changes from what I remember. Always love to hear about a fast early Mustang that still looks like it could cruise down the street.
Thanks Nate. These cars are always changing.. But I did drive it on the power tour this year and had a blast. Beleive me it gets plenty of cruise time otherwise I would have a c4 in it..
 

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Uhm, that irridescent bluish purple color on your sparky plugs mean they are getting berry hotta, LOL.

Track buddy was playing with the nitrous on his 5.0 mustang and almost welded a plug to the threads
on his aluninum heads. It would not come out so I just suggested without knowing much about all this
that he wait until the heads cooled off. Apparently it worked. I don't know if he burned a valve or not
but the spark plug pin was completely gone.

That is what y'all get for running blow torches on your engines.
 

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That is what y'all get for running blow torches on your engines.
Can't stress enough about tuning. If you don't tune it like a cutting torch, it won't burn up. Tune. Tune. Tune. Oddly enough, the right fast parts make your car fast, then it breaks. The right fast parts + solid tuning make it even faster, yet less likely to break. The cheapest part you can put in your car for higher performance and better reliability is tuning. Unfortunately, the end of the build is when most folks are already over-budget and out of patience, and tuning takes a back seat. You're running an engine far, far beyond it's design limits, and there is no warranty. Things can go boom even when it's all seems 'right' under these conditions if you don't "herd your horses" for a moment or take anything for granted. Take the time to do it carefully and properly, and stay on it - as you can pay a little now, or a lot more later.

-=≡ If it was easy everyone would do it ≡=-

David
 

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... I don't know if he burned a valve or not but the spark plug pin was completely gone. ...
BTW, for your buddy, I'd have to see the plugs to do a proper analysis, but it sounds like he's over-advanced. All power adders require ignition timing control for both best power and to prevent damage. If he's spraying heavy (and it sounds like it), he must have proper timing retard as part of the program.

The plugs should be 2 or 3 steps colder (start with the coldest plugs you can get that won't foul immediately), the porcelain should be light to medium gray/brown (gasoline fuel), and the timing heat mark should be at the bend in the ground electrode. All this can't be seen unless he does a clean shutoff from WOT in the traps. Get a tow back to the pits or pull the plugs in the return lane pullout without restarting the engine. Standard plug-reading stuff.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I bet ya pulled a ring land up on a piston.. done that been there a few times ....
BINGO.. Car is back together and ready for the track. No burnt valves just a pinched ring on #5. New piston and ring set as well as a fresh set of rod bearings and good as new. I did go back with an 8 heat range even though the "so called E85 experts" claim the -7 is safe on a small nitrous shot. I think they are masking the hotter heat range with extra fuel. My plugs looked great with the same tune on the 1/8 mile passes but the 1/4 just allowed more heat. Should be fine now with the -8 and two steps smaller on the nitrous jet on the corners.

I also loosened the converter a bit and opened up the plenum quite a bit on the Vic Jr intake so I am anxious to see how it responds.
 

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Gotta open those cold ring gaps. If #5 butted, then the rest are touching or damn close to zero gap when hot. Don't forget, ring gapping isn't to make the smallest gap, it's to make enough when hot. Go big. If you position your ring gaps properly, your ring gap can be a bit too big and still not lose cylinder pressure. Don't fear the gap. Of course, you should be fine now with re-tuning, but there's no reason to risk butting with tight gaps.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Gotta open those cold ring gaps. If #5 butted, then the rest are touching or damn close to zero gap when hot. Don't forget, ring gapping isn't to make the smallest gap, it's to make enough when hot. Go big. If you position your ring gaps properly, your ring gap can be a bit too big and still not lose cylinder pressure. Don't fear the gap. Of course, you should be fine now with re-tuning, but there's no reason to risk butting with tight gaps.

David
This was not a ring gap problem. Pinching the land was a result of heat in the chamber, burned plug strap and detonation not end gapps butting together. The ring gaps were .028 and .030. With only a 125 shot that is more than adequate. I still had 200 psi of cranking pressure with this cam. The problem was E85/-7 heat range plug and nitrous at an aggressive tune. Had I went with -8 plugs I know I would have been fine. I have read the plugs many times and checked AFR many times so I know the tune was a little too close to run on the 1/4 (usually run 1/8) with that hot a plug I just screwed up and it cost me. It happens all the time I just had to pay for it and learn a lesson no big deal.
 

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My misunderstanding - bartlett said "I bet ya pulled a ring land up on a piston.." and you said "BINGO..". If instead you pinched or crushed a land - then yes, that's different.

David
 
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