Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i used my bfg 215/60/14 drag radials for the first time I got from Vinyl66. First time I've ever run anything besides a street radial, man it sure is different. Vinyl66 also had a new best [email protected]+, almost Rodney
r/t - crap
60' 2.303
330 6.190
1/8 9.373
mph 77.94
1000 12.121
1/4 14.441
mph 97.29

My prior best on 255/40/17 Kumho street tires was [email protected] 2.336 60', My best 60' last night was a 2.269 but short shifted a gear so no better et.
Need some advice from folks w/ a stick using drag radials. I made 6 passes total on best run was 20psi and some wheel spin. All other runs I just seemed to bog once i got the clutch out. I lauched at about 4k most runs. I know these exact tires are good for 1.70's 60's as that is what my buddy was runninng w/ them when they were on his car. He has a auto w/ 3k stall and more power. I was hoping to get at least 2.10's or better. It seems there must be some sweet spot to get these to lauch well w/ a stick shift car I just need to find it. I did do 2nd gear burnouts and got that down pretty good. I did have a blast though. Best part of the night. My first race was against a 69 Camaro w/ 350 looked really nice 4sp car. I ate him up.......Thanks for any advice.........

_________________
'65 2+2 TimeMachine: 289 4v 4sp 3.55 gears, stock heads

1991 Honda Civic Si- daily driver
2002 Midnight Edition Ford Escape- wife's car

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ga289stocker on 7/17/06 12:36am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
please understand that a stick car (all things set the same) will 60' slower than the auto, but pull better at the fast end. the torque converter multiplies torque about 2x depending on how built, but slips at the end. stick gets no multiplication, but locks up at the end. dont assume you should 60' as fast as your automatic pal.
optimize your setup. used to be a touch of spin was normal with a stick. how quickly they recovered was the key. dont know if thats changed much.

_________________
Dave Shea
S/ST 1818 S/P 1018 H/R 1564

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: igo1090 on 7/17/06 12:01am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
If your still getting spin try lower tire pressure. here is a chart for the et streets. This may be close for your bfg? or lower rpm launch. Spin will kill 60foot and et.My best time on worn Kumho street tires 1.886 60foot
with 20psi and huge burn out on a a very sticky track. With nos off the line. Try to make your run as right after the pro cars when the vht is still good. Be the first one out and leter rip.

good luck

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,497 Posts
Drag radials don't work well with stickshifts. Their sidewalls are too stiff, and don't absorb the shockloads a stick car produces very well. You NEED a bias ply drag or DOT slick. These have flexible sidewalls which absorb the shockloads of a stick.

Plus, DR's don't recover from spinning nearly as well as a bias ply slick. Once they start spinning, they are toast. Their stiff sidewalls get them spinning easy, then their radial construction keeps them spinning.

Yes, they DO have pretty good adhesion as long as you don't shock them into spinning. This is why they work ok with an automatic. Just don't expect the same with a stick.

Go buy some 26 x 8.5 slicks from Mickey Thompson, or some 26 x 8 or 26 x 9 slicks from Hoosier. (or their DOT equivalents) These WILL hook you car to the track like vel-cro.

About torque multiplying and converters..... That's really just a fancy way of saying the engine is able to rev up and make more torque before the car starts moving. They are not a magic device that pulls torque out of thin air. Torque converters can only output what in put into them. Nothing more. They are LESS efficient at transmitting power than a clutch. Much of that power is lost as heat. This is why you will see stick cars mph better at the track than cars with slushboxes. They get more power to the rear wheels.

GET SOME SLICKS!

Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
596 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the advice Mike, maybe one day I can step up to a drag slick. For awhile anyway I'll have to make do w/ the drag radials. I got to believe I can do better than a 2.269 60' w/ them. I think more seat time would help as well. I for sure hear what you are saying about the sidewalls and shockloads. thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,950 Posts
About torque multiplying and converters..... That's really just a fancy way of saying the engine is able to rev up and make more torque before the car starts moving. They are not a magic device that pulls torque out of thin air. Torque converters can only output what in put into them. Nothing more. They are LESS efficient at transmitting power than a clutch. Much of that power is lost as heat. This is why you will see stick cars mph better at the track than cars with slushboxes. They get more power to the rear wheels.
Urrrrrrrrrrpppppppppppp!!!!

Not true. How about a little reading first?
http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/torque_converters_explained.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,950 Posts
On 2006-07-16 07:06, ga289stocker wrote:
Need some advice from folks w/ a stick using drag radials.
I know these exact tires are good for 1.70's 60's as that is what my buddy was runninng w/ them when they were on his car.
Moving the tire from one car to another is not a guarantee of 60' time.

1) Keep the tire pressure up 20psi is fine
2) Lower your launch RPM but feather the clutch while coming out of the hole while giving it more gas. Very coordinated movement required here.

You should be able to get sub 2.0 on a regular street tire with the right technique.

You might also need some suspension work if you can't get the 60' down. Little tweaks can get you a long way....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,658 Posts
On 2006-07-16 10:15, allenman85 wrote:

Urrrrrrrrrrpppppppppppp!!!!

Not true. How about a little reading first?
http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/torque_converters_explained.htm
Mike is still right, you're not pulling anything out of thin air - you're letting the engine spin faster, and you have to move more fluid to generate the same motion, because it requires more of it to multiply the torque - its the same principle of increasing gear ratio - its mechanical advantage. You just have to trade distance moved in exchange for more effective torque. It just gets the engine spinning faster to get it off the line quicker.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
the misconceptions about converters never cease to amaze me. along with stick cars & better mph. just my .02
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
373 Posts
David,
Trial and error will get your 60 foots down where they need to be.
First you need to add that new posi sitting in the garage so you will stop doing the "one wheel peel" in the burnout box. With both tires at around 17 psi, and hot, you can then vary your launch rpm and clutch technique to get you off the line the quickest without spinning or bogging too much.

You've still got a few tenths in the 60 foot. Easily! It will come with practice.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top