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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,
i have recently purchased a 302 windsor to put in a 1973 XA Falcon, and have heard that a standard cam is pretty useless.
So i want to go to a cam with alittle power, but not real lumpy so that it uses heaps and heaps of fuel. Can i get away with simply swapping the cam? Or will i need to change followers, vavle springs etc etc?
The thing is i dont really want to spend heaps and heaps of money and time on the motor, i just want to get it and enjoy it!
Also, anyone know of a suitable cam?
Thanks,
newbie/cooon.
 

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A 268H or 270H Comp Cams should suffice for ya.
 

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Anytime that you replace a cam, you need to replace the lifters (followers.) The lifters and cam lobes "wear-in" together. They cannot be mixed around on the same cam either.

Mixing them up or trying to reuse them on another cam is like playing Russian Roulette with 5 rounds in the chamber.

Most light cams require stock type springs, although the spring installation specs (height/lbs) may be somewhat different. With a light cam, you can probably use the stock springs, assuming they are not worn out from excessive mileage. Just don't go overboard on lift.

_________________
Dennis

65' STANG, 3160 lbs

393W NA, 2.78 Toploader 4 Spd, 9" 3:70 Posi
Pro Comp Heads, Vic Jr. Intake, 750dp, 236/561 Solid Cam, 9.6CR, 1 3/4" Headers, Lakewood, Subframes, Caltracs



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 1/6/07 6:57pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 1/6/07 7:01pm ]</font>
 

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Oops hit submit without typing...anyway...for good off the line torque and mid range comp XE 256-H. Probably won't spin as high as the others but develops torque earlier. Definately at least use new lifters and springs, preferably matched to the cam.

Also with higher lifts the press in rocker arm studs in 302's are suspect. I had my heads converted to screw in studs, guide plates, and hardened pushrods to cope. It's kinda hard to just replace one thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok thanks guys, while i am here, what does a "4 bolt mains" exactly mean?

BTW, i am new to the V8 scene, used to the ford 4 cylinders! Thats why i know very little...
 

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"4 bolt mains" means that the cylinder block main bearing caps are retained with 4 bolts instead of 2. As for your cam selection, I would stay with a lift number of about .480 - .490" and duration @ .050" at around 220 degrees. These are mild cam #'s which should work well with minor modifications. You will have to change the lifters (followers) and replacing the springs with springs that match the cam is a good idea. I would also replace the timing chain and gears.
 

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Comp cams does offer complete kits with everything you will need for a swap.
 

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Uhhh big question here is it a roller motor? I thought on roller motors you could swap out cams without worrying about lifters?
 

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if you want to do the swap on a budget buy your new cam and springs locally-might want to try www.segedin.co.nz they will have a cam thatll suit ya,and you wont have to deal with the exchange rate and shipping
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
^good point. Tis a solid style, not roller. Can i put the new cam in without having to take the internals out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Also, with a mild cam, what size carb should i get? And what size with a standard cam?
 

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My 302 combo uses a Comp Cams XE268H. It sounds decent but the power doesn't really come on until 2500 rpm and pulls to 5500-6000. I also have a single plane intake so that could be part of it. I should swap the stock springs for the springs I got with the kit but I don't have time yet. I also have a 600cfm holley vaccum secondary carb and I have used it on this 302 and my 351w before I nuked it. Its worked well for both engines. The cam shakes the car a bit at idle, so if you don't want that then you might want to go with a smaller cam. I still need to do some tuning work to get everything running well so it might be a different engine after this weekend when I work on tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I took my oil pan/sump off this morning, there is alittle movement of the conrod where they are bolted to the crankshaf, i guess this isnt good?
 

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side to side movement is good meaning it should move slightly in parallel to the crank centerline and why did you take the oil pan off for a cam change ?
 
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