Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,233 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are some pics of the exhaust I plan to put in this weekend. They are FPA headers and I used a 2 1/2 X-pipe system that summit sells and some dynomax bullets. I'm gonna fab it up under the car then pull it out to weld it. Oh yeah, anyone know where I can find plugs for the O2 bungs? I had him install them incase I decide to get a wideband later on.












 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,904 Posts
Looks real nice.I don't know where to find the bungs to weld on but you might need some ear plugs as that thing is going to be loud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,233 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The bungs are already welded on, I just need threaded plugs for them. I know it will be loud and probably won't sound as good as the 2 inch system with flowmasters I currently have. However, I'm not going to weld the mufflers on so if I decide I really don't like it I can install tailpipes. I really don't like tailpipes, I currently run dumps but when emissions time comes around its a real pita to put the flex pipe on. This way I can install cats as well by simply removing the muffler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,950 Posts
Two things I have found for plugging the holes.
1) An 18mm sparkplug
2) An "anti-foul" sparkplug adapter with a pipe-plug screwed into it.

And just found this: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16136&cat=250&page=1


_________________
1970 Cougar, 3660 lbs
418W, C6, 3.50 posi, slicks & street trim
Best 1/4 mi: 11.24 @ 119 MPH Best 1/8 mi: 7.13 @ 96.32MPH
See what's up at FlowMotion

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: allenman85 on 11/24/06 10:25am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,497 Posts
Innovate Motorsports, the people that sell those wideband oxygen meters sell a stainless steel bung and plug kit for $9.95. That's a great deal.

As far as a plug is concerned, as has been said, you can use a 18mm (normal big sized) sparkplug that was used in 289's, FE's etc. I've done that before.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com

Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,287 Posts
Are those headers coated, or plain chromed? Shiniest finish I've ever seen if they're coated.

Cris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,506 Posts
On 2006-11-23 18:35, mikemustang289 wrote:
I know it will be loud and probably won't sound as good as the 2 inch system with flowmasters I currently have.
Nope...it will sound BETTER!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,233 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
no they are chrome, I couldn't afford the extra $200 to get them coated, they were already expensive enough
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,287 Posts
I'd like to know how that holds up. I'm picking up a set of Accufab 1 3/4x1 7/8x3" longtubes from Cammerstang for a fair price...however they're not coated. I know a guy who works at a plating place, and he can get them chromed for me relatively inexpensively. I know I'd read there was some cons to that, but for my life I can't find what they were =).

Keep me posted if you would bud.

Thanks!

Cris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,311 Posts
On 2006-11-24 18:54, Is1BadFord wrote:
I know a guy who works at a plating place, and he can get them chromed for me relatively inexpensively.
Inquire about hard chroming. Its more durable as far as plating goes. Ive heard that it works well on headers from one source, but never had that backed up. Talk to the platers and see what they say. However come to think of it it might be up there with coating prices....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,287 Posts
Yeah, I'm not wanting to spend 300$ more on the headers to get them Jet Hot coated lol. I just wonder about the pro's and cons of chrome.

Cris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
Good looking system! Those headers look vaguely familiar, too! I think you're going to like your FPA's.


Based on what I've read from others' experience, if you break the headers in properly/easily, the chrome should last a looong time. I've heard from guys who've had Stan's headers with the chromed finish and they're quite pleased. It's <U>not</U> a cheap, low-end plating product. Most have said that it will just take on a faint golden hue as it ages, with only minimal blueing at the heads.

Enjoy!

Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,233 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
NOTHING IS AS EASY AS IT'S MADE OUT TO BE!!!

I'm in the middle of installing these things and my first obstacle is the passenger side motor mount. Stan warned me these may not clear my mount and I was aware of that. Looks like the Drivers side will be fine but I had to remove the passenger side to make some clearance on the aftermarket mount. Not a big deal

Then I go to install the header and still no go. Sure enough it's hitting my bell housing (lakewood) which it was designed to clear. However, I don't think this is Stan's fault but rather another example of how I have the worst luck. This is an old lakewood bell so my guess is it's not the exact same design as what was used to mock up these heads. Well I can deal with that.

Then they also hit the stock massive starter, which kind of pisses me off but I should expect that I guess. So I need a new mini starter. Anyone have any recommendations???

Oh yeah, and for some reason AFR has this bright idea to make their head bolt holes shorter than stock, so all 16 bolts are to long.

I just hope the exhaust lines up the way it's supposed to or I'm screwed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,030 Posts
On 2006-11-25 14:40, mikemustang289 wrote:
NOTHING IS AS EASY AS IT'S MADE OUT TO BE!!!

I'm in the middle of installing these things and my first obstacle is the passenger side motor mount. Stan warned me these may not clear my mount and I was aware of that. Looks like the Drivers side will be fine but I had to remove the passenger side to make some clearance on the aftermarket mount. Not a big deal

Then I go to install the header and still no go. Sure enough it's hitting my bell housing (lakewood) which it was designed to clear. However, I don't think this is Stan's fault but rather another example of how I have the worst luck. This is an old lakewood bell so my guess is it's not the exact same design as what was used to mock up these heads. Well I can deal with that.

Then they also hit the stock massive starter, which kind of pisses me off but I should expect that I guess. So I need a new mini starter. Anyone have any recommendations???

Oh yeah, and for some reason AFR has this bright idea to make their head bolt holes shorter than stock, so all 16 bolts are to long.

I just hope the exhaust lines up the way it's supposed to or I'm screwed.
Sorry to hear that you are having problems with your header installation.

Aftermarket mounts are usually not header friendly and sometime tubes need to be rerouted.

It seems to be normal to need to grind the Lakewood scattershield near the starter. Just a little notch is all that should be needed and it won't affect the strength. My "custom" Accufab's also hit and they were supposed to clear too as I specified that I had a Lakewood.

When I first installed my headers, I had previously installed the factory starter which worked fine. Somehow I got the headers installed with the starter in place. When I wanted to drop the Lakewood to replace a rear main seal, then I realized that I had a problem with starter R&R clearance. One bolt was practically impossible to get to, but eventually I got it out. I did not want to go through that again so I ordered a Powermaster mini starter from Summit. It is a geardrive starter that is good for up to 18-1 compression and it fits much better, although the large selenoid is very close to one of my header tubes. Be sure to get one for a 4 speed as the more common starter for an automatic/5 speed does won't work.

Here is the one I ordered (Summit Part # PWM-9504): http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PWM%2D9504&N=700+4294908331+4294906189+4294840125+4294882874+4294883167+4294889096+115&autoview=sku

I did find that I had to make sure that the starter hole in the Lakewood block backing plate was enlarged slightly in order to have the starter boss fit properly on my 164 tooth flywheel.

_________________
Dennis

65' STANG, 3160 lbs

393W NA, 2.78 Toploader 4 Spd, 9" 3:70 Posi
Pro Comp Heads, Vic Jr. Intake, 750dp, 236/561 Solid Cam, 9.6CR, 1 3/4" Headers, Lakewood, Subframes, Caltracs



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 11/26/06 6:10am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
I had similar problems with my custom headers, Lakewood, and cable clutch conversion on the Cougar. I used a PA Performance gear reduction starter it is only $135, works great.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
814 Posts
My FPA's fit with the mechanical clutch linkage and a Lakewood bellhousing. I'm using stock motor mounts. This is a 351 windsor though.





Hope you get everything sorted out without too much trouble.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,233 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My bellhousing looks a little thicker up toward the upper tube in your second pick. I finally got the Drivers side on after also removing that mount as well. I will take care of the passenger side tomorrow and start on the exhaust.

Does anyone know if a starter from a 5.0 latemodel mustang will work??? From what I remember those are smaller, if they are I can pick one up at autozone and if it doesn't fit I will take it back. But what about the wiring, is it the same?? The stock starter only has one wire going to it.

I would like to avoid prolonging this another week, plus I can get a warranty at the parts store.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,030 Posts
Cain's starter flange on his Lakewood is smaller than mine was also. After I ground it down, it looks a lot like his pic.

Mike, are you going to use a 3-4 speed tranny? Is your bell the old 15200 model? If the answer is yes to both questions the 5.0 starter will not work because it has the wrong style tail flange. The ford mini starter mentioned is only useable for 5 speeds and automatics.

You need a starter for 3 or 4 speed transmission. They typically cost more than the one used in the 5.0 and are not stocked in Autozone or Advance. Summit takes around 2-3 days to deliver.

Wiring is fairly easy--just 2 wires. Here is the correct wiring for a mini-starter ripped from another site:



_________________
Dennis

65' STANG, 3160 lbs

393W NA, 2.78 Toploader 4 Spd, 9" 3:70 Posi
Pro Comp Heads, Vic Jr. Intake, 750dp, 236/561 Solid Cam, 9.6CR, 1 3/4" Headers, Lakewood, Subframes, Caltracs



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 11/26/06 6:52pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 11/26/06 7:20pm ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,030 Posts
On 2006-11-25 15:49, wdflarity wrote:
I had similar problems with my custom headers, Lakewood, and cable clutch conversion on the Cougar. I used a PA Performance gear reduction starter it is only $135, works great.
The starter that is linked will not work with a 3-4 speed manual tranny. It is only good for an automatic/5 speed--the flange is different.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top