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Discussion Starter #1
I removed the shock towers last weekend in preparation to install a new suspension from Rod and Custom Motorsports. The car is a 1970 Cyclone GT, I also bought their 4-link rear suspension.

I almost went out and bought a plasma cutter but it didn’t take long at all using an angle grinder and a sawsall. Drilling out all the spot welds was the hardest part.
 

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I removed the shock towers last weekend in preparation to install a new suspension from Rod and Custom Motorsports. The car is a 1970 Cyclone GT, I also bought their 4-link rear suspension.

I almost went out and bought a plasma cutter but it didn’t take long at all using an angle grinder and a sawsall. Drilling out all the spot welds was the hardest part.
Hi Slednut, I have the same R&C kit, and I found that the fit between the long lower control arm bolt, the poly arm bushings, and the sleeve it fits in wasn't very tight. I had a noticeable amount of play in my assembled and tightened lower control arm. I ended up making all new bronze bushings for the LCA, and drilling and tapping two large setscrews to pin the bolt tight into the sleeve so it wouldn't wiggle.
I made the mods because I could feel the car "hunt" a bit going down the highway, so I went looking for why an all brand new suspension setup felt like that.
Just a heads up from someone who has already been where you are heading, good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hi Slednut, I have the same R&C kit, and I found that the fit between the long lower control arm bolt, the poly arm bushings, and the sleeve it fits in wasn't very tight. I had a noticeable amount of play in my assembled and tightened lower control arm. I ended up making all new bronze bushings for the LCA, and drilling and tapping two large setscrews to pin the bolt tight into the sleeve so it wouldn't wiggle.
I made the mods because I could feel the car "hunt" a bit going down the highway, so I went looking for why an all brand new suspension setup felt like that.
Just a heads up from someone who has already been where you are heading, good luck!
I'll try them when I get home tonight, I may get what you're saying once I look at it. Do you have a picture of what you did? Did you put the setscrews in the sleeve that goes through the cross member?

thanks
 

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I'll try them when I get home tonight, I may get what you're saying once I look at it. Do you have a picture of what you did? Did you put the setscrews in the sleeve that goes through the cross member?

thanks
Yes, I put two setscrews through the sleeve that goes thru the crossmember. Try sticking the bolt in that sleeve, it will wiggle a bit. It should not be able to move at all.
Also, slide your poly bushings onto the long bolt, they will have a small amount of play. They should not have ANY play or you will feel it wandering down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, I put two setscrews through the sleeve that goes thru the crossmember. Try sticking the bolt in that sleeve, it will wiggle a bit. It should not be able to move at all.
Also, slide your poly bushings onto the long bolt, they will have a small amount of play. They should not have ANY play or you will feel it wandering down the road.
The sleeves are loose but the bushings are not. I'm worried the bushings will get sloppy after use. Where did you install the setscrews and what size did you use? I was thinking about drilling a hole and welding a nut to the sleeve.
 

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The sleeves are loose but the bushings are not. I'm worried the bushings will get sloppy after use. Where did you install the setscrews and what size did you use? I was thinking about drilling a hole and welding a nut to the sleeve.
I installed the setscrews around an inch in from either end, I used around a 1/4" fine thread setscrew, but you could definitely drill a hole and weld a nut on. You could even weld two on each end at about a 30* angle to each other to really pin that long bolt in place.


If you do that, then dry fit the arm and bushings and see if you can make the control arm wiggle forward and backward by pushing on the ball joint end, looking for any bushing play.
I work with tight tolerances for a living, so I wasn't happy with the fit of the bushings to the long bolt. If you measure the bolt diameter, it will give different dimensions all the way down the length of the bolt, as much as .006 in my case. The bushing ID was .625, the bolt as small as .619. That will give you a loose fit for the LCA bushings and wandering steering.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I installed the setscrews around an inch in from either end, I used around a 1/4" fine thread setscrew, but you could definitely drill a hole and weld a nut on. You could even weld two on each end at about a 30* angle to each other to really pin that long bolt in place.


If you do that, then dry fit the arm and bushings and see if you can make the control arm wiggle forward and backward by pushing on the ball joint end, looking for any bushing play.
I work with tight tolerances for a living, so I wasn't happy with the fit of the bushings to the long bolt. If you measure the bolt diameter, it will give different dimensions all the way down the length of the bolt, as much as .006 in my case. The bushing ID was .625, the bolt as small as .619. That will give you a loose fit for the LCA bushings and wandering steering.
Thanks again, I did notice when I turned the bolt in the A-arm bushings it would go from hard to easier to turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've only tig welded a few inches in my life so my SIL came over and welded in the front cross member and upper A-arm mounts. I wanted to try to match the nice tig welds that are on the cross member.

I also butt welded the inner fender panels in.
 

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