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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off i just bought this Galaxie a few days ago. It has been sitting for around 10 years, previously had the car repainted about 15 years ago along with the interior redone. Apparently the 352 was turned up to a 390 but i have no way to confirm it. I bought it for a mere $1600!!!

I bought it on my sons 2nd birthday, and would like to slowly go through everything and completey restore/ modify it so he can have it when he is 16. For now my plans are just to get it running then maybe go through all the systems like brakes and such to make it reliable, then turn to the interior and get the carpet/ headliner replaced as it has water damage for sitting for so long.

The other item needing some attention in the future will the the trunk floor, i can see the ground, but for now i am ok with it the way it is.

Currently i am working on getting it running. I started out with replacing the battery and pulling the plugs to let the cylinders soak in some "Marvels Mystery Oil" for a few days.

I tried to turn it over with the plugs out and nadda! no cranking at all. I can turn the engine over by hand, but no clickey...... so then i just replaced the solenoid. Still nothing :( --> i do have a new starter in the garage if needed, but want confirm everything else works first.

The other item i thought it could be is maybe the ignition? I havent been able to confirm with a voltage tester yet to see if the "Start" portion of the ignition has power going through it, but i noticed that when i turn it on the lights do dim a bit like it is attempting to send power. Any ideas?

Another thing to note is that i have this little black 2-post box type thing on the passanger fender well, and there are two wires coming from the firewall going to the posts. Then there is a free-hanging wire that is long enough to reach to the solenoid, but not connected. Not sure what that may be, maybe it has something to do with this? I will post up a pic later if it doesnt ring a bell for anyone.

Thanks for any advice you can attribute!
 

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Yeah, sounds like a wire off the fender well solenoid...if not cranking, be sure the neutral/park safety switch is ok too, a couple of my old ones I had to "pull" the lever towards park to start...the lights dimming might be just a bad connection on the starter or solenoid dropping voltage when it tries to start. The fender well solenoid usually has 2 big and 2 small wires, if I remember right, the purple one goes to the post closest to battery, marked S on some, it's the one that clicks the solenoid on, the other wire should be brown, goes to the other post marked R for resistor bypass, it strengthens the spark while cranking...if the brown is off, it will crank, but might be hard starting and flood easilywith the weak spark.
The ground from battery to block is important, but there's another from the cowl to the block, just a flat/bare braided thing, that grounds the rest of the car, if that one is missing, all kinds of issues will arise, including eventual mechanical damage from grounding thru bearings in transmission,etc...

If messing with fender well solenoid wires, best have someone ready to yank the wires off too, if the R/S are reversed, or if the things just going bad, it might stick on...most sticky solenoids I've had we're on Chevys, often gently thumping with a block of wood would free them up for a while, but be careful...would suck if it starts and you can't shut it off, starter turning a bazillion rpm because it won't disengage, etc...old cars that have been sitting can be tons of fun, especially if uncertain of the history...

Check out the frame close too...from 65-72 or so they were really notorious for frame rot, usually the front torque boxes just behind the front wheels, or the lower arches in front of the rear wheels.
Don't want to scare anyone, but be sure to check closely for rot, don't want any big surprises later on, a pretty high percentage seemed to suffer rusted frames...the few I had in those years all did, the 65 we still have was by far the worst, there's some pics in the link under my sig...

Looks like you've got a clean car there, hopefully it's just minor connection issues holding it from cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, sounds like a wire off the fender well solenoid...if not cranking, be sure the neutral/park safety switch is ok too, a couple of my old ones I had to "pull" the lever towards park to start...the lights dimming might be just a bad connection on the starter or solenoid dropping voltage when it tries to start. The fender well solenoid usually has 2 big and 2 small wires, if I remember right, the purple one goes to the post closest to battery, marked S on some, it's the one that clicks the solenoid on, the other wire should be brown, goes to the other post marked R for resistor bypass, it strengthens the spark while cranking...if the brown is off, it will crank, but might be hard starting and flood easilywith the weak spark.
The ground from battery to block is important, but there's another from the cowl to the block, just a flat/bare braided thing, that grounds the rest of the car, if that one is missing, all kinds of issues will arise, including eventual mechanical damage from grounding thru bearings in transmission,etc...

If messing with fender well solenoid wires, best have OneOne ready to yank the wires off too, if the R/S are reversed, or if the things just going bad, it might stick on...most sticky solenoids I've had we're on Chevys, often gently thumping with a block of wood would free them up for a while, but be careful...would suck if it starts and you can't shut it off, starter turning a bazillion rpm because it won't disengage, etc...old cars that have been sitting can be tons of fun, especially if uncertain of the history...

Check out the frame close too...from 65-72 or so they were really notorious for frame rot, usually the front torque boxes just behind the front wheels, or the lower arches in front of the rear wheels.
Don't want to scare anyone, but be sure to check closely for rot, don't want any big surprises later on, a pretty high percentage seemed to suffer rusted frames...the few I had in those years all did, the 65 we still have was by far the worst, there's some pics in the link under my sig...

Looks like you've got a clean car there, hopefully it's just minor connection issues holding it from cranking.


Ya, i did check to make sure the NSS was all the way to the left (Park) just to be sure... got the idea from crawling around here for the last 2 weeks before i bought the car. Did even check the frames because i didnt want the same amount of project you had... not that talented :)

I have attached a photo of the wire in quetion. Take a look and let me know if you guys have ever seen one of these? I am going to trace the wires soon to see where they go when i get more time.
 

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:confused: Hmm ours didn't have that, but ours is a non-air, 289, other a/c or big blocks likely different... What does the little box feed? a extra ignition ballast resistor, or maybe a radio noise suppressor, no idea
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I used a jumper to go from positive on the battery to the small post on the solenoid. Got it to turn over. Does that mean that I have a bad ignition switch? Btw, I didn't have a key in the ignition.
 

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With the key on start you should have 12v in the red wire w blue stripe going to the S terminal on the starter relay. If you don't, check its 8-wire connector at the firewall for corrosion, try bypassing it at the NSS and makes sure it is screwed in tight at the ignition switch. in START that red/blue wire trips the relay and sends 12v to the starter and to the brown wire to the coil. So while in start mode, you should have 12v on the + side of the coil, too.

If you aren't getting 12v on START at the coil you can run a wire straight from the starter side of the relay to the coil and then START or jump the relay like you did before but with the key on RUN.

If the car starts but quits after starting then it is not getting power in the run mode. You can bypass that problem (the red w/green wire from ignition switch through the 8-wire connector to the coil) by running a wire from the + battery using a vicegrips, to the coil and starting the car like that. Be warned though that a full 12v will heat up the coil and after 5 minutes will burn it up, so don't forget.

Good luck!
 

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I had an issue where I got the car started but no gauges would work, no blinkers...nothing... but the car was running. Drove it to the gas station to fill up, shut it down and it wouldn't start...but the accessories worked again. I jumped direct to the starter, drove it home, replaced battery wires & solenoid... still no start. Reached behind the ignition switch to look for a loose wire and the back of the switch fell apart in my hand. $16 later everything worked perfect again. Sounds like the ignition switch to me & since it is not expensive, maybe it is worth replacing anyways.
 

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Is it a hardtop or convertible? The little box reminds me of the same thing attached to my solenoid and is for the convertible top. Maybe it was added for some other reason at some point, not really sure what the purpose of that is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I figured it out. It was the neutral safety switch (NSS). Any idea where I can buy one?

Btw.... after more than 7 years sitting, the engine runs great!
 

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Is it a hardtop or convertible? The little box reminds me of the same thing attached to my solenoid and is for the convertible top. Maybe it was added for some other reason at some point, not really sure what the purpose of that is.
I'm such a tard, there's a pic right there!! LOL
 

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Ya, i did check to make sure the NSS was all the way to the left (Park) just to be sure... got the idea from crawling around here for the last 2 weeks before i bought the car. Did even check the frames because i didnt want the same amount of project you had... not that talented :)

I have attached a photo of the wire in quetion. Take a look and let me know if you guys have ever seen one of these? I am going to trace the wires soon to see where they go when i get more time.

Those NSS are $$. You could try rebuilding it http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/487660-neutral-safety-switch.html#post1507779

Or maybe just bypass it. Bypassing comes in handy when the car dies in an intersction. No shifting, just turn the key to START and it fires up...
 
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