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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 1971 F100 off of my cousin, for a pretty decent price. the vehicle sat for two years covered up, but after bypassing the aftermarket coil, it actually started right up! I spent a ton of wasted time chasing a spark issue and chasing bees.

The truck was original with a 390, but has had a 1973 429 swapped in, with a torque manifold, holley double pump, accel coil, and headers.
I am not sure of other performance parts. I have a set of D0VE-C heads waiting shipment....

I have some work ahead of me with some rot, and it seems that it has all of the typical spots.

I will try to get some pictures up sometime, and also looking for some insight as to getting some panel replacement parts.
The biggest issue is the drip rail.
 

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to fix the drip rails...just shave them. Easiest thing to do. What rear gears does it have in it? If it has 3.73s or 4.10s that should be bat outta hell fast. I am envious.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think that the trans and engine are from a car. the trans has a b&m ratchet shifter, on I assume a C6....

I am not sure of the gearing yet, or whether it is stock. My friend who decoded the vin was going to decode the door tag for axle.

We messed with it last night, I wanted to move it, but wanted to check the fuel pump first.

Pump is working, getting spark, but it wouldn't start. it ran for maybe 30 seconds, misfiring, and I couldn't get it to stay running, then it didn't want to fire after that.

We threw on his spark plugs and wires with maybe 500 miles, that he took off of his Cleveland.

I will try to get some pictures this weekend, or maybe Wednesday, but it truly IS NOT pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I put gas directly into the carb for the drive home, and the rest was empty...


I'm not sure when I will get to check it out again...

please don't poke TOO much fun:
 

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i don't know about anyone else but I can'r see the pictures. since I post my crap on multiple forums, I use photobucket. That seems to work well. If its a 429, it will have a C6. No question. How far did you drive it if all you did was pour gas in the carb? I can't get my 390 to idle for more than 20 seconds pouring gas into the carb
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I posted it from photobucket.

I only had to drive maybe a mile.

My friend and I did the same last night. gas directly into carb, in addition to the tank. having trouble starting. I bypassed the ballast resister to get it started, when we got it to my house. otherwise, there wasn't any spark. I had a stock replacement coil in place of the ACCEL super coil.

It is getting spark and fuel now, but I couldn't get it to start without starting fluid. It only popped a few times without it. with the hood open, and standing in front of it, while running last night, it made a hell of a racket. it doesn't sound like it is missing, just a ton of extra noise that didn't seem to be there previously. we checked the firing order again, in case we messed up some of the order of wires, but it seems correct. I cleaned off the points' contact, but just with paper, not emory cloth. I plan on checking the resister, and maybe seeing if I can replace that and throw the accel back on, but I am not very hopeful that it will work.

it says in an ad for the super coil that the supplied resistor should be used in conjunction with the factory resistor...... if the previous owner replaced the wire, it would burn out the points?
 

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haha I just pulled up the thread today and could see it. Weird. Solid looking truck, but I'd take the cheesy bed cover off. Sorry I can't help you with your spark problem
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am trying to sell it. my cousin got it for cheap and had hoped it would work, but it is for a newer truck/too small.

I got it running, it turns out it just needed a new ballast resister. I don't know if it will go bad too, but for now, it is running really well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't think this truck will ever make it to a track. I am really far behind on all of my projects, plus a kid due in August. I wanted the truck to be functional for a while before I were to start fixing it up a little, but it has been nothing but a hassle.
I rebuilt the carb that was on it, and had to get a new fuel inlet, and re-did the rest of the fuel lines, but for some reason, I have extra pressure in the rear bowl, and fuel squirting out of the needle and seat/float adjuster(when loosened) I DID have some debris in there, and had the bowl off quite a few times, but do not understand the constant overflow now.....unless the needle and seat got messed up.
In addition to that, I DID buy a donor disc front end, that was supposed to be a bolt on and go unit, but basically everything on the front end is just useable as a core, and all of the bushings need replaced.
I am having trouble finding the correct booster, and all were missing at the junk yard. I got a master from a friend, that is brand new (rebuilt) never used, that seems the same as the donor part, but I don't know if something internal would keep it from working.... this unit is for a '71 torino, the donor stuff is from a '78 f-100. the piston on both is 1".
I had some trouble with the choke, and for how many times I had to take things apart, made a kink in my new cable from the set screw, and when reinstalling, it settles back in the same area, instead of where I want it to go. I said 'F' it and ordered an electric choke last night along with see through site plugs for the bowls.
In addition to all of that, I have the battery disconnected at all times, otherwise the turn signal/brake light stays on and drains the battery. The last time I had it running, it seems that nothing electrical was working correctly including headlights.
I don't really want to give up on the project because I really like this style of truck, and of course, it has a 429...... but I really don't think it is feasible to keep it.
 

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Okay lets see if I can help with any of the problems. First off emotional support. I completely understand that these trucks can be a pain in the rear end as I have had my fair share of them. But, it comes down if you really want it or not. I, not being an adult with responsibilities, do not have to worry about the chillen. And while chillen take a lot of your time up, its always nice to have that project to work on to decompress. Trust me, theres a new baby in my household.

The carb issue just sounds like... a carb issue. I'd check and make sure you aren't getting to much fuel pressure into the carb. That would probably cause it to overflow. Worse case scenario, I guess buy a new carb for it.

The front end stuff seems like a bummer. I'm not sure if I can help you that much on rebuilding. But it is fairly easy to fix the dentside front end. It took me two hours with it on truck to rebuild the brakes, replace rotors, replace wheel bearings and replace bushings. To find out if that master cylinder works, go to Autozone.com or Oriellys.com and look up the master cylinder for the truck. Then look it up for the torino. See if it's the same part number.

Okay I would need a definition of "not working correctly". I had to replace my voltage regulator to get my lights to stop flickering. The turn signal switch draining the battery is curious. Are any lights on? If they are that is a 60 dollar turn signal switch, or a 20 dollar turn signal cam (which is a bigger pain in the a$$).

If you don't want it anymore I would gladly take it off your hands...although no monies :D In all seriousness, we all get frusterated. After a year of owning my truck, I have been ready to seriously sell it about four times. I actually was one day away from trading it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I guess there was something up with the floats. I had the front set up, 'correct', but the rear wasn't making any difference with adjustment due to the tab on the float for the needle being bent, and not allowing for adjustment. I have the carb back on the truck, and hope to switch to an electric choke, but there are so many issues with the electrics, who knows if I will be able to get it to work correctly.
In addition to that, an older friend of mine was helping me check things out and thinks all of the running issues stem from it sitting for too long, and the lifters might be stuck or collapsed. He wanted me to do a compression test on all, and watch the build up of pressure, but I haven't had actual time to mess with it. When I tried to get the truck running again after throwing the carb back on, I couldn't get it going. I accidentally bumped the distributor, not knowing that the clamp was still loose, and can't seem to find a good spot for it....too much to do by myself, going back and forth moving choke, dist, trying to start, get back out, keep re-changing, all while hoping it doesn't backfire and burn to the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
wiring not working correctly:
headlights are not not turning on, and the rear brake or turn signal stays on constantly. I have to undo the battery after messing with the truck.
in addition to that, I don't know if it is just the fact of having to turn the engine over so much, and not starting up right away, but the battery leads get really hot.

In addition to that, since I need to buy all new brake components, since the purchased ones were essentially core units, is there any option to have a different rotor from something else, that would give me the car's bolt diameter of 5 on 4.5"?
I'd love to be able to use some of the extra wheels that I have here.
 

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wiring not working correctly:
headlights are not not turning on, and the rear brake or turn signal stays on constantly. I have to undo the battery after messing with the truck.
in addition to that, I don't know if it is just the fact of having to turn the engine over so much, and not starting up right away, but the battery leads get really hot.

In addition to that, since I need to buy all new brake components, since the purchased ones were essentially core units, is there any option to have a different rotor from something else, that would give me the car's bolt diameter of 5 on 4.5"?
I'd love to be able to use some of the extra wheels that I have here.
Headlights: Check your dimmer switch first. My dimmer switch was bad and it made the headlights not work. Completes the ground or sumething.

Brake/Turn Signal: Really sounds like something switch related. Worse case scenario thats a 60 dollar part, but make sure all leads go where they belong before dropping your cash.

Brake Components: I think the truck spindles are much bigger than any of the car components. Ig cross check part numbers on the autozone or oriellys website and see if you can find something. But I really don't think so.

Engine not starting: Mine has had a similar issue lately since it got ran out of gas. Invite a friend over, two people help a lot. When you are playing with it, prop the choke open. It's getting warmer and you shouldn't have to worry about it as much. If you can get it started, have a timing light real close by.

Things happen and it is hard to stay motivated. Someone stole all the gas out of tank not only #1. Im out $40, #2. They screwed up my carb. All things happen for a reason, just keep the patience.
 
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