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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It has been over a year since I had the car at the track and almost a year since I got a strong 8.8 in the car. Life has been crazy and the transmission has kept me working in the garage instead of driving it. First the intermediate band shed it's lining. I got that fixed and was heading to the track and the pump started making noise. Friday I was loaded up and when I tried to start it, it did not want to start. The primary accelerator pump check valve was laying in the housing. My wife was saying it was a sign. With out further adieu.

[email protected] US43 on 8/24/12 - YouTube
 

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Nice. Sounds like low 10s and about 130 mph for the 1/4 mile. What tires are you using?

David
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, It is a 275/50 M/T drag radial. I plan on going to Bowling Green on 9/22 so we will see. I am still pretty soft on timing and boost at the starting line. It is about 5psi at launch now. I need an EBC, but that will come this winter. I am shooting for 9's in September, still on pump gas, but I may trailer it there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ran it at Bowling Green, now on pump 93/E85 mix and drag radials. This is the only tune up I have. There is no street tune and race tune. It needs a couple more degrees of timing since this is only 1 more degrees of timing than I ran on straight 93 in the above video. It ran 10.09 at 134 with the same tune as above.

A milestone - YouTube
 

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Very nice!..Such a nice innocent looking stang and rips off a pass like that!...Of course all of us old stang guys gotta know the details of the suspension etc?..lol..I have to say looking at that 9.99 pass I wonder how much quicker and faster you might be with the front wheels going straight and the front end settled?...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is definitely a work in progress. The front is too heavy for the 6 cylinder springs that are on it. I put a 1" spacer on top of the springs to get ride height where it is. It needs springs on both ends and shocks on the front. It is working OK and needs to tweaked. All it takes is money. I don't go to the track that much, but I need to try some stuff even if it means a bunch of wasted runs. It needs to 60' at least .1 faster. Incrementals are 1.481, 6.380 at 109.74, 9.991 at 134.89

The engine is a 351w with SRP -27cc pistons, AFR185's, hyd flat tappet, TorkerII intake and 650 double pumper.
The turbo is anS475 with 96mm turbine and EV hat, Tial WG and BOV.
The fuel system is a sumped tank, A1000 pump, 13204 regulator with -8 feed and return.
The trans is a homebuilt C5 with6 reds in the forward, 6 reds in the direct and a RMVBwith TB.
The rear end is an 88 F150 8.8 with a 3.08 gear, spool, 35spl axles, late big beaing ends and Explorer brakes.

Suspension is

Front
45 year old 6 cylinder springs
Summit shocks
stock uca's
stock lowers with UB machine spherical bearings
DIY roller perches
DIY strut rods with rod ends on front
home alignment

Rear
45 year old leafs with extra main leaf
Caltracs
Rancho shocks
 

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I would think NEW rear leafs would produce a good 'bang for the buck'.... Hard to beat cal-tracs and the way they operate... Unless of course you gut it and go to a 'link' type rear suspension..... Then its a whole 'nuther bag of worms....;)
 

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I wonder how much quicker and faster you might be with the front wheels going straight and the front end settled?...
I wonder the same, it seems to "carry" the front the whole track, and I know the alignment on these cars are a bit tricky trying to 'set' for optimal alignment during/under hard acceleration. It rises fine, but doesnt look like it ever 'settles', and dont know with the type of suspension they use on the stangs if it can even/ever be set to settle back down. I would re-new the rear leafs and see if that helps with the 60' as i said in previous post. You may find you will need to re-adjust the cal-tracs again. (yes i watched that vid as well, and you did get the wheel spin out of it with the springs you now have). Maybe one of the others can chime in that races a lot with the stock front.....
 

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My opinion for free: the front coils have too much length or stretch and may be too weak to pull the front end back down. I assume you already have front drag shocks. If they are adjustable you may try changing your rate a notch. I'm only running about 90 in the 8th but had a similar problem with wind trying to make the front of my car fly.

I'm running old mustang gt front coils with 1 1/2 turns cut off. It is a bit of a compromise but works. I have the thick poly coil insulators, drag shocks, mod'd the front strut rods for 6 degrees caster. Overall rake front to back is 2 or 3 inches so I get some down force on the hood once I get up over around 100. Seems to work. The car lifts good but settles back down and is stable on the back end.

This might help;

"The KONI SPA1 series shock absorber (for drag racing only) is a complete departure from the old "90/10" thinking which is no longer effective in modern drag race competition.


The old thinking was to allow the vehicle front end to rise quickly and stay there to promote as much weight transfer as possible to the rear wheels. This was achieved by virtually no rebound forces ("10") and a great deal of bump forces ("90"). This massive amount of bump force was supposed to hold the front suspension up and maintain that "bite."


Unfortunately the nose-in-the-air position trapped huge volumes of air which ruined any attempt at aerodynamics so E.T.s were not as good as they could have been.


KONI SPA1 series shocks deal with this in several ways. First, they use virtually no bump (compression) damping. Why? To allow the front-end to settle quicker, restoring the nose down attitude that is so essential for cleaner air flow. Second, the rebound (extension) forces are velocity sensitive; that is, they increase at a rate directly proportionate to piston speed.".
 
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