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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just thought I'd post some pics for those interested. The motor will be going in next weekend. I'll post pics of the install.










<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mikemustang289 on 5/7/06 6:48pm ]</font>
 

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Going to put some real power in that Vette huh?



Just messin', Looking REAL nice bud!


_________________
1965 Galaxie Fastback-351C 2v/C4 with a 3.50 posi

1973 Gran Torino Sport (sold)

2004 Cobra
2004 Marauder

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: wildosvt01 on 4/30/06 9:14pm ]</font>
 

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Wow, looks great...Those AFR's really set it off. I'd like to do a 306 or 331 build one day. What's your combo? If you don't mind sharing and what are your goals for this build. Again looks wonderful
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Combo's below in Sig. That's my bros vette, no need to worry though, she run high 15's.

My goals was low-mid 12's. I think the power will be there, I'll just have to work on my driving and do a little more suspension work on the car.
 

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Looks Great
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, I'll take it to a chasis dyno once it's in and broken in, probably a few months, after summer, should be a solid 300+rwhp

here are the specs:

306 roller
stock recond rods
polished crank
ARP everything
speedpro pistons
Moroso windage tray
Centerforce DF clutch
Summit SFI balancer
FRPP BS flywheel
Lakewood scattershield
Stef's fabricated oil pan
Cloyes timing set
Holley mechanical 110 pump
AFR 185 heads
Jay Allen Custom cam 218/224 ~.540/.550 114LSA
Performer RPM Intake
Biggs 650 DP Carb
1 5/8 longtubes
2 1/2" exhaust
T5z trans
9" locker with 4.30's
31 spline mosers
running 26x10.5 e.t. streets
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·








Just a couple more pics, still waiting on the cam which kind of sucks cause now I have to prolong ordering the pushrods so it won't be in and running till next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·





It's been 5 months since I started and today she's finally in and done.. Started on the third try and ran perfect. No problems at all, no leaks, nothing.

Well, there is one slight problem, the Fordmuscle sticker's peeling off my oil pan, must not like the heat, but I can deal with that.

I drove it to the car show and back but haven't opened her up. I can tell though, that just by how much more torque it makes down low compared to the 289 that this thing's really gonna scream. One thing I'll have to get used to, which I wasn't expecting is the stiffness of the Centerforce clutch. It's very stiff compared to the King Cobra but no big deal.

One other note, I had brought up the discussion of the runout on factory bellhousing. I put in a Lakewood Scattershied and had to buy the offset dowels, I managed to get the runout down to .004.

I never measured the factory runout, but the trans shifts incredibly smooth. Before it was very notchy and you could feel the sliders when they engaged with the gear. So the run out should be checked with factory bellhousings because I can guarantee my previous bell was off.

Other than that, just a big thanks to everyone that helped and this site for all the info!!!



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mikemustang289 on 5/14/06 1:27pm ]</font>
 

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Good job, it looks great!

Interesting about the Centerforce Clutch. In my 65' the pedal was so soft that it didn't really want to return up when pushed to the floor. I then followed the instructions and removed the spring under the dash. Now my pedal fells stiff too plus it returns properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
On 2006-05-14 03:36, dennis111 wrote:
Good job, it looks great!

Interesting about the Centerforce Clutch. In my 65' the pedal was so soft that it didn't really want to return up when pushed to the floor. I then followed the instructions and removed the spring under the dash. Now my pedal fells stiff too plus it returns properly.
Are you using the stock setup or a cable? I am using a cable and I went the extra mile and bought the correct Lakewood clutch fork because the stock one just didn't look like it was going to cut it (too short)

The cable is at a slight bit of a bind. I think the stock cable had a ball on the end? My clutch cable has a threaded rod on the end and two square nuts that don't fit very well into the clutch fork, causing it to be put at a bit of an angle.

This is how it was with the stock clutch fork so I don't know that this would be causing the clutch to feel stiff. however, the lakewodd clutchfork is, from my understanding, made to work with a deeper pressure plate? The reason I say this is because Almost all of the adjustment is taken out of the threaded portion of the cable. It just seems that the relationship from the clutch fork to the bell is closer than what it would be if it was stock.
 

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I guess I won't be of much help because I am using the stock equalizer bar/mechanical linkage and stock Ford fork with my Lakewood.

Before I removed the under dash spring there was virtually no resistance when pushing the clutch. By the way, my centerforce is the Dual Friction.
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Dennis

65' Stang

393 stroker, Toploader 4 spd, 9" 3:50 rear.

Victor Jr. Knockoff Heads, 282S cam, Stealth Intake, Bigs Stage 5 750DP, Accufab Headers, Scattershield, Caltracs.



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 5/14/06 10:37pm ]</font>
 

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Nice job Mike!
Glad to see you went with the AFR heads.


Just 2 questions:

Where did the valve covers come from?

Who did your cam?

Thanks and have fun with the new power!


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<font color="red">***New Project***</font>'89 LX 408, SCAT crank & H-beams, Probe pistons, AFR 205, Rawls SFT cam, Vic Jr intake, Pro Systems carb, UPR K & arms w/coil overs.....more to come!!!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mstngjoe on 5/14/06 11:08pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I had the valve covers on my 289, I bought at a local speed shop but you can find them on ebay for around 70 bucks. Jay Allen did the cam, and it idles great, the car sounds much louder as well.
 

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