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Okay I was looking for a rebuild kit for the 223 carb today. Just doing a little research. I got a shop manual download from someone on this forum last week. It lists my carb as a Holley C2AE-9510-B. I cant find this listed as the carb in any other source. I have found 9510C or D or U or Z or J... I found sites that list the carbs for 223 all the way up to 61 or from 1927 up to 1953.

I also found that the carbs were different for cars with a vacuum line or something. (Don't remember where I read that.)

So, anyone know which carb rebuild kit I need?

62', mileage maker 223, 3 on the tree.

My dad is coming over tomorrow so I am planning to get the parts car home. :)
Is the C2AE-B listed for Manual?

Year-1962
Eng- (6) 223
Trans ?
Carb- Holley
List- 1904
2359 C2AE-B
KIT= 995

Year-1962
Eng- (6) 223
Trans- Man
Carb- Holley
List- 1904
2357 C2AE-A
KIT= 1986
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Update: I got all the ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, brakes parts, bearings ect... for the front end and I am assembling the front. We have the parts car blocked up in a storage unit and we pulled the front suspension parts that we needed and the rear leaf springs and axle.

I have a question. Among other things like wire brushes, I am using molasses and water to remove rust. I dissolved 2.5 gallons of molasses into a 35 gallon trash can. When I first did it I put some parts in it and it took a while but it did remove the rust (3 weeks). I know the concentration is too weak and I got another jug of molasses but before I add it to the mix I already have, I want to know how long the molasses and water will continue to work. Should I start a new batch or can I just add more molasses to what I have?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Update: Work is slower during wrestling season as my son has less free time. I could do all the work myself but that is not really the purpose of all this.
The vert has major rust issues in the trunk and floorboards so I am going to try to use the good metal from the parts car. We cut the trunks out of both cars and I am going to do the floors next. Once we get the floors out, I will see what metal I will need to buy. I may not need to buy any panels for the floors but I might have to use a small piece or two of sheet metal just to fix a little hole.

I have the whole front suspension done but no brake lines yet. Once I get the floors done and the firewall looking good, I will work on brakes.

I have all the bushings to rebuild the rear suspension but I need to go through the rear end before I do the rear suspension.

I thought I had two good fuel tanks and planned to use the one from the parts car because the convertible one had a small dent in it. I pulled the tank and knocked the rust off the top of it just to find several small holes the size of a pencil. I then decided to check the dented one and found it to be much, much worse.

I'll try to get some pictures up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I have a question and I know it is going to sound dumb but here goes.

I removed the old cracked windshield and I want to remove the wiper arms. I don't know how.

See, I told you it was dumb.

Do I lift on the arm and yank it off or do I need to unscrew the base some how?
 

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No dumb questions . . . it all helps someone down the road

They are splined, if you look under where they mount you should see a small tab, im pretty sure you bend that tab back and pry em off, . . . . gotta use some leverage without damaging anything

L
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I know it has been a while so here is an update.

I got the engine back from the builder a month or so ago and I have it on a stand in the garage. (reminder: if my son has bad grades its my car, good grades and it is his. He has a 3.0 so it looks like its his for now. His car is getting a 223 straight six. Mine would get a big block.)

I found someone who can do the sheet metal work. The car needs new rear quarters and some work on the trunk lid. He is also going to replace the firewall and front floor in a few large pieces. The car sat in a field rusting for several years.

I got the rear axle/dif back yesterday. All new bearings and seals. We rebuilt the rear leaf springs but reading here, they might end up being too soft. That is an issue for later.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Hey, it’s me again. After working on this car for a while, and then not working on the car for a while, I decided to put it in storage and my son and I restored an easier car for him. We did a 63 Comet that we were able to drive when we brought it home. My son drove the car while we did work on it and built a 302. We did the steering, Mustang disc brakes, Maverick rear end, and we rebuilt a 302 and 4-speed Toploader from a 69 Mustang; interior, headliner, wheels and tires etc… We transformed the car and had a great time doing it and LEARNED A LOT. My son drove the Comet as his only car and says he will never sell it. We have a thread on the build on TFFN.org, “63 Comet V8 Swap” if you are interested.

Now the Galaxie is mine and I’m itching to get started on it so I came back to this post and read it. How embarrassing!! I can’t believe I spent 2K rebuilding a Mileage Maker 223. (I now have a Mileage Maker 223 for sale if anyone is interested. LOL) My Home Owners Association will not allow noisy car building so I have moved the car to a really nice storage unit with plenty of lights, room, and electrical outlets. Prior to putting the car into storage, a friend of mine replaced the firewall and front floorboards. The tunnel is still open and I need to decide on an engine tranny combo before I do the tunnel. I found a company called Mars Engine Parts and Engine Swaps. They have Coyote motors on pallets ready to get installed. I’m interested in this or I was thinking about a 390 with a Galaxie Toploader. My parts car had a manual tranny so I have the pedals for a manual trans.

I hope to have the engine/trans purchased this summer and I retire in December so I will be spending a lot of time in these forums. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I have the car set up in a large storage unit to use as a shop. The only thing bad about the unit is it doesn't have 220. I've been learning how to do body work (via YouTube)(don't laugh). I have been wrestling with engine/tranny combo and put serious thought into an coyote from lsswaps.com I could get one with a 6 speed tranny for about 9K. It scared me a little to think about the wiring and I have viewed a few threads that made my mind up for me. Anyway, I decided on a 390 and TKO-600. I found a guy in Glendale, OR who has been building Ford motors for 45 years and he does some impressive things. Anyway, I put a deposit on a 1969 390 he is building for me. I'm trying to decide if I want to go new or used on the tranny and I am leaning towards new. If I get a new one, I can order it with the short shaft and .64 OD. I'm not concerned about drag racing it and I would rather cruise at 80 MPH on the freeway. The only car I need to beat is my sons 63 Comet with a 302 and he doesn't know how to drive it. He never lets it get to the top of the powerband before shifting. I can take him.


I've been doing sheet metal work and I'll try to post some pictures later.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Its been a bear resizing my photos to get them on here. Anyway, as i said i have been working on sheet metal. I have been learning to make patch panels so don't be too hard on my work.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Once i cut off the outside, i realized I should have fixed the truck extension first. Live and learn.

I trimmed the rust off the truck extension down to good metal and I can use the extension off the parts car to make a new extension.

I got the outside where i wanted it and put a few sheet metal screws in it BEFORE i cut the trunk extension. Made the patch, and this is me tacking it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Oh yeah, I almost forgot, I decided against the coyote motor and I found a guy who has been building Ford motors for 45 years. He is building me a 390 and i am looking to attach it to a TKO-600. There is currently a TKO-600, for a Ford, and the gear ratios i want, on Craigslist down in the Bay area someplace. What worries me is that two of the tabs are welded back on. Its not that the aluminum was welded but why did they break? I speculate that it must have been installed wrong or something so I worry about the internals. The motor will be done in maybe 4 weeks from now. It comes with exhaust and all the way up to the brand new Edelbrock 600 CFM carb. Iam looking at a quick time bellhousing and have been looking for headers. I'd like to use the stock Z bar because I read that the 6 cylinder and the big block use the same one. The parts car had the 6 so I have all the parts.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I had to post this. On page 1 of this thread is a picture of my son in 2013 wearing this red sweatshirt.

This weekend, he came down and we did some work on his Comet. I saw he was wearing the same sweatshirt so I jumped up to take the picture.
 

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