[393Clevor]

Trying to match the converter, gears, Cam for my newest combo.

1968 302

Decked to -.010, 351W D0OE heads 1.94 & 1.60 SS valves, ported, chambers polished and cc'ed to 61.5cc, 10.55 to 1 compression, Crane roller rockers, Scat I beam rods, stock crank, KB-116 pistons with a 2.6 cc (?) dome, balanced, Edelbrock torquer 289 intake (the one the puts the carb a little sideways), I have two carbs 600 and a 750 Edelbrock, Full headers, Duraspark with an MSD 6A.

It's all going behind a C4 that will be built sitting in a 7? Cobra-II Mustang.
Does anyone know what they had for gears? It came stock with a 2-V 302 C4.
I will be driving it on the street but want the bitch to rock. I would be very comfortable with 3000 stall but I am open for all your suggestions.

I just picked up the car for 50.00 and it's in very good shape for a Cobra-II that spent it's life in the Northeast. Small amount of rust in the hatch that's it. So I pulled my 302 out from my truck and am putting it in the Cobra along with full headers and 2 1/2 exhaust.

So if you had all the stuff that I have what would you guys run for a cam, converter and gears?

Thanks

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: V8740 on 1/9/02 11:07am ]</font>

 

[windsoreight]

Here is a link that will let you find your stock gear ratio.

http://www.mustangii.net/axle_ratio.htm

I am in the process of building a 78 Cobra II. Mine is also a built 351w with a tunnel ram and a full manual c4 with a 3800 stall. I converted the car to 5 lug and installed a 9" rear with 4.11 gears. They only thing I am trying to figure out is the headers. I have 10 pairs to play with. Let me know how yours turns out.

 

[393Clevor]

It's a 302 with 351 heads.
It looks like your on you way. I think I have seen some headers somewhere for a 351 but not sure.

 

[85mike]

If I'm not mistaken, the Mustang II has a unique bellhousing. I don't know if this will cause a problem with the converter selection. Its smaller than the others due to the transmission tunnel size.

 

[n2omike]

A lot of it depends upon the quality of the port work. If the heads are really good, you could choose something about like the cam in my car... a solid flat tappet with 236/248 degrees @ 0.050" ground on a 110 lobe seperation. The engine in my car (with a victor jr) comes on really hard around 4000rpm, and likes to be shifted around 6800. With an automatic, I'd probably use an Edelbrock air-gap intake.

But, to make maximum use of that cam, you'll want a fairly loose converter. For street use, I'd use a 10", but good 60ft's at the track will require an 8". That is, unless nitrous is in the cards. A small hit off the bottle will jerk one out of the hole with some autority.

The bottle can make a tighter converter a LOT more drag friendly. These little 302 need all the help they can get taking off... and to ET, you'll NEED a really loose converter or the bottle.

For a gear, you'll want as much as you can stand. 4.33 or 4.56's will work best at the strip off the bottle with a 26" tire. If you're using nitrous, I'd go with a 4.11. BUT, these gears will make highway cruising a real pain... especially with an automatic and no overdrive.

I'd also install a 3" exhaust.

It all comes down to the question... How much street, and how much strip? What do you want to do with the car?

Good Luck!

 

[393Clevor]

Thanks Mike

I have all the parts that I mentioned in my first post. What I'm looking to do is build with what I have. Money is an issue. Nitrous is not in the planes at all, someday maybe in my 544 but not the Mustang.
I have a cam that came out of my Clevor it's 280 degree duration and 498 512 lift thats all I know about it. Need a degree wheel to get the specs. Maybe I'll through that cam in and see what happens.

It's going to run on the street, might see the track from time to time only if the 544 is down.
So I have the parts I mentioned now what do I do?

 

[393Clevor]

Come on Boys!

Here's your chance to help Build my car. The biggest F*** up is not matching your cam, gears and converter. So how would you set it up?

STREET STREET STREET

DON'T BE AFRAID THERE'S NOTHING TO BE SCARED OF.

 

[393Clevor]

Are you all waiting for me buy the stuff I need so you can tell me I should have bought this or that?

I'll let you all know how I build it so you can all tell me what I should have done.

Thanks.

 

[RANDY]

For a cam,run a Comp.Cam 280 hydraullic and for gears run a 4.11,the car is lite enough,and run a TCI 10 inch converter!!STICK with a HOLLEY double pumper carb!!!!

 

[393Clevor]

The 280 cam is what I had in mind but was not sure how it would be on the street. I have a Cam that came out of my Clevor but have no idea the specs. I waiting for a degree wheel now so I can check it. The previous owner said it was a 280 degree Comp Cam but he also said the motor was good. Far from it.


Thanks

Ask question before spending Money GRASS HOPPER

 

[89 coupe]

Ditch the Torker 289 intake for it is very restrictive for you ported 351 heads and larger valves. Those are excellent intakes for stock and very mild 289s and 302s but need a lot(and I mean a lot) of porting to get them to flow over 200-210 CFM and your 351 heads should be in the 220-230CFM area at around .550-.600 lift if ported enough but anyway the intake should flow a minimum of 10 CFM more than your intake ports in the heads flow. The cam is fairly wide open depending on what you want to do with the car. Is it a daily driver, weekend driver, street/strip leaning more towards strip, or strip? An RPM Air Gap intake should work really well at the RPMs that engine should like to be run at and can keep up the flow pretty good with the modified heads. Converter, gears, and cam really need to be matched for what you want to do. You should be able to have an effective RPM range from 3500-6500 or better yet 4000-7000RPMs and yes the 302 likes a loose converter to get it going off the line. Let it do what it inherently wants to do and that is reving up higher with good compression and free flowing heads. A 700-750 Double Pumper with loose converter is very responsive and basically unbeatable campared to a vacuum seconday carb with the same loose converter. A Comp Cams X-Treem series hydraulic flat tappet cam with the RPM range you want to run and a converter that stalls about 500RPM more than the beginning of the advertised cam RPM range but probably like even more stall. A 4.10 gear with 26" tire should be minimum gear ratio to use with 4.62 which it would like for best 60ft times and ETs but not practical on the street. 4.10 gears are very livable on the street if not traveling on highway everyday at 65-up MPH. 1 1/2" headers will work but 1 5/8" are preferable and smaller exhaust with some type of H-pipe to boost mid range torque and keep it quieter.

A Comp Cams 294S solid Magnum cam looks right for your combo and with 3500 stall and 10:1 compression recommended looks like a close match for your combo but it is old technology just like ALL Magnum series cams are. Pick what you want to do with the car and then let us know so we can pick the appropriate cam/converter/gear setup.

The 280 Magnum Comp is much too small and mild. Your engine will want more RPMs and ported 351W heads with 1.94/1.60" valves should flow up to about .600" lift so get as much lift as you can to take advantage of the extra flow and lift has nothing to do with the RPM range or idle, just makes more power within the same RPMs as a lower lift cam with same duration and timing events. Your engine will like 7000RPM shift points but you will need a 4000 stall or more to use a cam made for 7000RPM and get optimum ETs. Hope that helps some.

 

[89 coupe]

A Victor Jr might be the right intake if you cam it right.

 

[393Clevor]

So Vic, jr. intake, 750 DP, 294S Comp Cam with 4.10 gears, 3500 stall and 26 inch tires. That sound like one hell of a street stomping tire smoking mother F***** .
That's what I'm looking for. It will be my Sunday ride with an occasional run down the strip. Not much highway at all.

Thanks