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Discussion Starter #1
Hey i woke up this morning and i had no lights in my vehicle i just woke up and tested the batter there was no juice in it it read 0.02 v

then when i dis connected it from the solinoid switch which is new and it started hoping up to 1 2 and 3 volts slowly returning back to 12 is my solinoid on backward?
 

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Possibly. There are 2 small terminals marked "S" and "I". The BATTERY cable connects to the big terminal by the little "S" terminal. The STARTER cable connects to the big terminal by the little "I" terminal. The little BLUE/RED wire connects to the "S" terminal, and the BROWN wire to the "I" terminal.
:tup:
David
 

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A description of the vehicle would be a big help(year and model)..I am assuming your talking about a typical 60s and 70s fender mounted unit?..If so it is basically just a switch to get power from the + battery post to the starter..Hooking it up backwards should not kill your battery..You likely have a short somewhere or something drawing power continuously even with the key off..
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
A description of the vehicle would be a big help(year and model)..I am assuming your talking about a typical 60s and 70s fender mounted unit?..If so it is basically just a switch to get power from the + battery post to the starter..Hooking it up backwards should not kill your battery..You likely have a short somewhere or something drawing power continuously even with the key off..

Its a 1975 Ford Ranchero 6.6L and yes fender mounted me thinks me likes you already :)

also might i add i have a column ignition that went bad... the whole works in the column is F*ed and i am installing a key in the dashboard.

most likely its the same thing that causes my engine to stay running right before i pull a certain wire on the solinoid to kill the engine.

heres what my wiring looks like....


"
Re: BAD NEWS no Steering column Found.
HERES PICTURES of what it looks like

BEFORE YOU GET ALL MAD WITH ME....


1..... 2 AND 3 (LEFT)

RED in hand is battery


yellow cap black and orange wire point to the left is to the alternator

yellow cap and orange wire wire going to the right leads to the dashboard.


1 CENTER


Goes to the Dashboard area too


RIGHT SIDE

Right Side Goes down to the bottom where the starter is....

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.




ORGINAL POST WAS A 3 POST"



This post can be found in my other linked problems.


http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/ranchero-pages/508472-bad-news-no-steering-column-found.html
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Possibly. There are 2 small terminals marked "S" and "I". The BATTERY cable connects to the big terminal by the little "S" terminal. The STARTER cable connects to the big terminal by the little "I" terminal. The little BLUE/RED wire connects to the "S" terminal, and the BROWN wire to the "I" terminal.
:tup:
David

my old terminal had all that on it my new one does not.. they stop making three post ones. I took some sand paper to the top where its too much paint and found the s and the I :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Possibly. There are 2 small terminals marked "S" and "I". The BATTERY cable connects to the big terminal by the little "S" terminal. The STARTER cable connects to the big terminal by the little "I" terminal. The little BLUE/RED wire connects to the "S" terminal, and the BROWN wire to the "I" terminal.
:tup:
David
where does the alternator wire go... though...
 

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.. Hooking it up backwards should not kill your battery..
The starter cable and "I" terminals are internally connected together. If wired wrong, the battery will drain through the coil. In-spite of that, I agree it's likely the rat's nest issue. ;)

David
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not so from what i understand. The "I" terminal is what goes into the loom and ties into the Coil+ wire to give coil cranking voltage during starting. It should NOT go anywhere else.

welp from my eye point of view... i got the problem down pack as far as what drained my battery could have been the radio the accessory wire is grounded with the hot wire.... but now i am going to attach all that into the council i am building i am building a council for my ranchero once finger hut sends my charger back for my drill..

its a multi purpose drill so i am going to build something to fit in the center and add switches lights and gauges as well as nobs for verious things for my ranchero i want to make a low profile center council.
 

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.. Hooking it up backwards should not kill your battery..
The starter cable and "I" terminals are internally connected together. If wired wrong, the battery will drain through the coil. In-spite of that, I agree it's likely the rat's nest issue. ;)

David
Not so from what i understand. The "I" terminal is what goes into the loom and ties into the Coil+ wire to give coil cranking voltage during starting. It should NOT go anywhere else.
I presume you're responding to me.
That's correct for the small wires only. If the relay is flipped (some models are done that way) and the cables attached backwards, the battery will feed the "I" terminal to the coil and ground through the distributor. Bingo - battery drain. Though, I do not believe that's the issue here, and likely you would not have a dead battery anyway, but a fried coil instead as there is no resistance in that line. See what I mean?

David
 

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It wouldn't crank at all - just drain.

David

EDIT: Oops - now I'm upside-down - yes, with "I" and "S" correct but cables backwards, would start and keep running with direct battery feed through "I". More coffee. Note, there are versions built this way for some Ford models. I think the use is based on L or R fender location, placing the BAT on the L or R of the relay. Point is, a Ford relay without a box or part number may or may not be right for your car unless tested for which terminals are which by resistance to ground ("S") or full continuity ("I" and STR) or no continuity (BAT). I worked on a '73 Mercury wagon with that type relay. It looked like any other, but was made for reversed cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well i have some good news..... and some bad news good news is i got it running and i am able to shut it off now .....


Bad news IT WONT SHIFT OUT OF GEAR NOW FROM THE COLUMN

I am about pissed as **** soon as i do something something else happens.....

i want to restore it but the COLUMN **** is pissing me off... i am about ready to rip the column out and shoot the hell of it
...

This column is nothing but COMPLETE PROBLEMS
 

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well i have some good news..... and some bad news good news is i got it running and i am able to shut it off now .....


Bad news IT WONT SHIFT OUT OF GEAR NOW FROM THE COLUMN

I am about pissed as **** soon as i do something something else happens.....

i want to restore it but the COLUMN **** is pissing me off... i am about ready to rip the column out and shoot the hell of it
...

This column is nothing but COMPLETE PROBLEMS
I was reading your other thread then read this one. Was thinking if you eliminate the ign in the column you would have to remove steering wheel and remove steering wheel lock mechanism too, if not and you don't use the key in column. Then even if it is free now it may lock later which would be bad if it happened while you were driving it.

Not a hard job to replace the key part and the switch on the column.
Remove steering wheel to get to the release pin for the key part. Turn key to run and push in release pin and key/tumbler should pull right out.

The electrical switch is held on to the column with 2 screws. on top of housing below the collar. Just loosen the column mount to drop it enough to get to this switch. Nothing hard.

Here is a link that describes how to do it with pictures.

Ford Mustang Locking Steering Columns - Mustang Monthly Magazine

I think it would be alot easier to fix right/factory than to redesign it all.
Also your steering and shifter locking would work correctly

Would think key part maybe $25 and electrical switch part $35?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was reading your other thread then read this one. Was thinking if you eliminate the ign in the column you would have to remove steering wheel and remove steering wheel lock mechanism too, if not and you don't use the key in column. Then even if it is free now it may lock later which would be bad if it happened while you were driving it.

Not a hard job to replace the key part and the switch on the column.
Remove steering wheel to get to the release pin for the key part. Turn key to run and push in release pin and key/tumbler should pull right out.

The electrical switch is held on to the column with 2 screws. on top of housing below the collar. Just loosen the column mount to drop it enough to get to this switch. Nothing hard.

Here is a link that describes how to do it with pictures.

Ford Mustang Locking Steering Columns - Mustang Monthly Magazine

I think it would be alot easier to fix right/factory than to redesign it all.
Also your steering and shifter locking would work correctly

Would think key part maybe $25 and electrical switch part $35?
No comment clearly you do not read anything i posted only skimmed thru it from those post the steering wheel has been off i know how to do all that stuff ~,~ just no comment......
 
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