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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
after a long weekend of replacing ball joints, springs, bushings, etc.. the 66 feels like a totally diferent ride... i know some people say the 1 1/8" sway bar might be too "tight"... but i dig it!!

Old heated springs vs a new spring



Old sway bar with new sway bar (if anyone in Socal wants the factory sway bar let me know)
 

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a 1.125" front sway bar for a 66 with a big block is ideal and not too stiff. i put an 1.25" in my 460 powered 66. back around 1995 i also put an 11/16" rear bar out back i got off a cougar xr7 with coil springs in the rear. i put the bar as far back under the rear trailing arms as i could for maxium effectivness. i dont remember the coil spring rate but they were custom wound to my specs at the time and i argured back and forth with the guy at eaton springs until they finally agreed to make them. they said they would be too stiff, but they were perfect. i had to get cutom valved shocks to control the rebound damping. oh look , this is post "666" for me ! WWWHHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO !!!
 

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Yeah, when I replaced all of the suspension components on my 66 (front and rear) the difference was amazing. I had no idea how shot the old stuff was until I drove it with the new stuff. The car just floats down the road and is tight as a......I'll let yall finish that.....;)
 

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Low, let's see pics of how she sits and the numbers on those springs.
 

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you will be really happy with handling moving forward. I just finally found a rear sway that would work for my 66 that will allow for end link style, adjustable pro-touring performance.

If i had my druthers, I would have liked the spot where the bushing mounts to be 1" further out on each side, but I'll probably get to that once I can find someone who will let me borrow their tubing bender.

I ended up using a Chevy II helwig rear sway. the "legs" are the perfect length to allot for frame mounts on the rear suspension cross member.

I think it would be a REALLY tight squeeze if possible at all with rear exit exhaust, but I fabbed side exit exhaust because I knew rear exit would be a complete pain.

Even at that with full size mufflers going side exit, it took a lot of trial and error to get everything squeezed up there with no interference.

I'll end up doing a write up after i finish welding the frame mounts in. they're only tacked in for now.
 

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A front sway bar can be too big or too small in a general sense, but the more important factor is how it is balanced with the rear bar. Tracking on rails in the front with a marshmallow in the back 'feels' better, but is actually a slower (and potentially dangerous) way to get around a corner. Quick and fast is all about balance and chassis tuning.
:tup:
David
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cool beans! Now you're ready to roll on to something else if there is anything. Always seems to be something else sadly. lol
i already have a list... as long as nothing else needs replacing along the way (like the turn signal switch that just went out[i think])

-Disk brake conversion
-add AC
-headers/exhuast
-new tires, maybe rims... or just have these powder coated..
-window motors and rails
-i have a kit to rewire the car, keep putting it off
-theres always a little body work that needs to be done
-one day, after everything else, body and paint...

the list could go on but i think we all get the ideal
 

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i already have a list... as long as nothing else needs replacing along the way (like the turn signal switch that just went out[i think])

-Disk brake conversion
-add AC
-headers/exhuast
-new tires, maybe rims... or just have these powder coated..
-window motors and rails
-i have a kit to rewire the car, keep putting it off
-theres always a little body work that needs to be done
-one day, after everything else, body and paint...

the list could go on but i think we all get the ideal
nice! when you are ready for A/C, take a look at southern rod and custom for a kit. They are much less expensive than the big guys and I love my set up. it holds up in Tennesee heat and is pretty small. I opted to run their heat/cool/defrost combo to get rid of the heater box that takes up major real estate.

as far as wheels, I scored a set of boss 338s for my car. I've been staring at them as I roll my 66 around my garage since november. I've decided that they are too big ( 18 front/20 rear) for my taste. I'm waiting for my billet steelie copies to get to me. I'm going to run 17x9.5 fronts and 17x11 rears ( i'm doing body work too and slightly modified my rear wheelwells to fit 315s). I'm going for the old school steel wheel & hubcap look, but with the benefit of a 17 so I can run nice , wide modern tires. I'm most likely going to run a 275/40r17 front and a 315/35r17 rear in Nitto NT05s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Zombie..

thanks for the info on the AC.. i will be moving back to the south (N.C.) next month. I have grown custom to this Cali dry heat but i grew up in the south (and remember the humidity)... so we will have to see what comes next, the Disc Brakes or the A/C..lol
 

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Low life - did you replace the rear springs as well? What other steering / suspension parts did you replace? Reason I'm asking is be ause it appears I am in line of doing the exact same things you just completed? Just purchased Quickor Sway Bars front and rear (1" front, 7/8" rear). I'm in the process of purchasing front and rear springs as well as shocks. However, I'm looking at a front end rebuild kit from P-S-T which would include inner and outer tire rods, ball joints, A Arm Bushings, etc. Just not sure how far I need to go and if I wait until I have everything to start install, or install as I go!?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Batwater..
i did replace the rear springs... i did not upgrade with a rear sway bar though..

what i should have done though... is taken the A Arms and had them powercoated or repainted since i had them off when replacing the bushings. Didnt really think about it until i was halfway done...

also, if i could a whole kit, i would have ordered it (i didnt get to the tire rods).
 
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