Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just brought home a cheap 5.0efi & AOD for my 68 mustang coupe that's been sitting neglected. I'm still trying to find out what I've got, it's a roller set-up but that's all I know for sure. Block number is E7TE.

I'm a little concerned about a couple things: 1. the intake ports have a coating of sticky black goo. 2. there's some crispy black deposits in the lifter valley along the outside edges by the heads. I've never seen inside a motor that wasn't my own and those have all been volkswagens or motorcycles. Is #1 just a product of the smog set-up directing crankcase fumes into the intake tract? (I've removed that from every non-smog vehicle I've owned, shoot me). #2 worries me more & seems like it could be from neglecting the oil changes. The oil that's in it is blacker than I ever let mine get, but doesn't have a nasty burnt smell or anything. I don't really want to pull the oil pan but maybe I should? Can a bottom end be cleaned without tear-down if it's all sludgey? Is there any powerful detergent oil that I can run & change the filter and oil every 500 for a while?

How about a cam reccomendation? I've got some used parts l've gathered on the cheap, this will be a budget ride with fuel economy a priority over performance. If I can get away with running 87 octane I will. Here's the goodies: some rusty hooker comps, a performer RPM air gap & a free 560 holley "street avenger"
. Since it's a roller & I won't have to buy lifters or worry about break in while I'm getting the car up & running I'll change the cam if it makes sense. Is there a wide disparity in stock cam specs? If some would be fine with the headers & intake I'll get out the degree set-up and find out what cam I have. I don't really want to change the torque converter.

I hung out here for a while a couple years ago, then got sidetracked with motorcycle & dune buggy projects & kinda dropped away. I'm itching to make some more progress on my cars & decided to shelve the future bike plans for a while. So many nuts & bolts, so little time...

_________________



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: casadepunklife on 12/16/06 1:36am ]</font>
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,833 Posts
Any real history on the engine and trans. Might save a lot of headaches just doing a quickie rebuild of the engine and trans. That way once in you don't have to pull them out again. Especially since you don't really know how hard they beat on them. It's a rear sump? I'd change the oilpump and shaft also with the WP anyway. Dipstick on the rearsump is in the pan and the timing cover probably won't have the tube for it. Timing gears? And you'll have to figure out an electric FP unless you all ready have one.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,833 Posts
If it was a serpentine drive WP is reverse rotation. Heads, the E7 are not the best but can be made to produce some very good results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,251 Posts
Sounds like it's been sitting for a while. Yes, pull the pan - if it's got muck -or dried muck- in there, clean out as much as you can. Clean the pan, change the oil pump. Scrap out the valley too. Get everything as clean as you can. When you run it, prime the oil pump and run it a bit - about 20 minutes hot. Change the filter, add a pint of Berryman's B-12, run it about 10 minutes hot then change the oil and filter again. The goo in the intake ports is from PCV and EGR - you'd have to pull and clean the heads to get it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
I ran into the same scenario on the same block number. Rather than guessing what it would give longevity wise, I opted to have it gone through and reassembled with what it needed. It did not need anyhing and the block was well within factory specs. I kept the same stock pistons (forged), cam etc. Just putting new rings, cam bearings etc. I think if you did not pay too much for it, have it at least checked out.

Another factor with me checking things out was as dacofa stated it saves a lot of time down the line. I just had car painted and did not want to be pulling motors in/out. Also he's right, any history helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No history at all on the motor from the buyer. He worked for a shop that closed down, and the motor had been in the corner as long as he could remember.

It hadn't occured to me that I have to swap oil pans anyhow... Also a friend just offered me a set of factory heads (don't know which) with large valves installed, exhaust porting and intake port clean up done. He got 'em along with a pile of other stuff, and has no use for them. Said he thinks he even has a reciept for the work that was done somewhere... So I guess I'm going to pull my heads & see if I have valve reliefs or not. Not a lot left to the motor after that. If there is crud down below then it'll come completely apart. The thing is I have a pretty bad habit of taking things apart then heading off on another project. I kind of envisioned this motor/tranny as a quick way of getting the coupe moving under it's own power again. I've got 2 mustangs apart and 2 motorcycles in boxes. Actually, that's not so bad now that I think about it. A year ago I had those four plus two more bike projects and a dune buggy with the motor & tranny apart. Damn, I'm almost half way to having everything running!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I'm bummed but I guess it'll be for the better:

The motor has E6SE heads, a quick search reveals that I don't want them. My friend's free heads are E6AE's with the exhaust ported & humps removed, new 1.84 & 1.54 valves, & light intake clean up. Obviously, those are the ones to use. Except... I've got the no relief pistons. So, the motor comes apart. Question: What pistons should I get to clear the valves? Is there any difference between factory 5.0 rods or are they all the same, 'cause I have another set. What kind of compression will I be looking at with the E6AE heads? The chambers look pretty big. Might work out ok, I'd really like to run 87 in this motor. I'll pick a cam suited for the low compression, any input would be appreciated on that matter. (other variables for the motor are in the original post). I'm going to try my best to get the motor to a local machine shop before I split town for a couple weeks on monday, that probably means today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
862 Posts
If you are using either of the E6 heads you will not need valve reliefs to clear... The valves are higher in the heads on the E6 than the E7... Even an E7 head will fit without reliefs and close to stock cam.

Make sure you put a new front pump seal in the AOD.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: gork1rogues on 12/16/06 1:50am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That sure would be nice. That's the case even with bigger valves? It doesn't look like the heads have been shaved, but the lowermost edge of the intake valve looks nearly even with the head deck. I wish I hadn't JUST pulled the cam, I should probably do a mock up to see.

_________________


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: casadepunklife on 12/16/06 2:48am ]</font>
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top