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Ive got a 67 mustang with a 351c in it in front of a c-4 tranny with a stock 8inch rearend. I cant get traction at all. Im wondering what i should do first to help out. Any cheap ways to get traction...Besides sandbags? Thanks, Ryan
 

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What kind of tires are you running?Sticky tires are the absolute best thing you can do for traction.Next is a good set of traction bars but the tires are the place to start.
 

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Well tires are an obvious traction enhancing step but tires alone won't do it. You need to also tune the weight and suspension of your car and you may have to adjust your launch technique some.

To get the most out of the traction you are limited to you have to have weight transfer when you launch. This provides lift in the front and squat in the back and helps plant the rear tires.

If your back end is extremely stiff all you will do is bust the tires loose when you hit it. If you just reduce the air in your tires trying to soften it up it can then start to tractor hop off the line or cup the tires and not make full contact which will just make it spin worse.

Lightening the front end any way you can helps and moving the battery to the back helps. If you are wheel hopping you will have to get some traction bars. I would get them regardless. You can run a bit more gas in the tank. I think gas weighs around 6 pounds a gallon so running 8 gallons in the tank is like putting about a 50 pound weight right where it would do the most good. I run extra gas in my car just for this reason.

Front drag shocks help a lot but you need softer springs that will extend easier when you come off the line. You can still run 50/50 shocks in the back and you need back springs that compress a bit easier.

If all else fails and it still blows the tires off you need more tire or your will have to soften up your launch technique in the mean time. You can roll out a little before you hit it which will help it bite. I did that for about a year with my car before I went to racing slicks. Its better than just smoking a hole in the track and loosing 2 or 3 seconds on your ET's.

I know some people that purposefully run vacuum secondary carbs instead of double pumpers to help soften their hole shot some. If you are running an automatic with stall you can load it up more and it will come out softer and help reduce or eliminate tire spin.

Lower ratio gears in the rear end will also help prevent tire spin but of course they also will raise up your rpms. If you are still running an open differential just ignore all that up there, LOL. You gotta get a t-lock to get good traction out of the hole.

_________________
1965 289 Mustang 2+2

best et to date: 12.53 @ 108.22
best et backwards: 12.59 @ 107.5

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Hottarod on 4/14/02 11:28am ]</font>
 

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With the sticky tires I'd get Cal-Tracs. My brother got a 71 Mach with 900+ HP to hook in his garage with no burnout. Monoleafs and 10 inch slick in stock wheelwells. I'm getting mine soon, I was a beleiver as soon as I saw his front tires go 3 inches in in the air! I've never heard anything bad about them, call them and check out their website, esp the customer cars section.

http://www.calvertracing.com/
 

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I agree with most of what Hottarod said except the part about lower(higher numerically)gears helping stop wheelspin.While I can see how you could argue this theoretically, going from say 3:1 gears to 4:11s certainly will not help prevent wheelspin it will increase it dramatically!


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: frdnut on 4/15/02 8:46am ]</font>
 
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