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I just wrote a book, and FM dumped it.

Put the carb back and now it's time to deal with the heat. Mixture only affects temps at extremes, it's not a 2 stroke.

I am leery of typing it all again LOL but, think airflow across the carb

- Flat base air cleaner
- Hood scoop unsealed (HUGE)
- Verify TDC is correct and you arent accidentally retarded at idle from where you think
- Consider ceramic headers if you don't have them
- Lower temp anyway you can in that area
- Make sure from tank to carb, the line isn't pre-cooking the fuel

I ran into the same thing with mine pre-EFI. The hood scoop was THE MOST effective but any way to get airflow across the carb helps. This is clearly NOT a tuning issue, a carb cannot meter evaporated fuel, only liquid, need to get the heat under control
 

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I just wrote a book, and FM dumped it.
I've been bitten by that a few times. Nowadays, If I write a long post, I'll highlight all the text, right click 'copy' before submitting it. If it gets dumped, I can reply again and simply click 'paste'. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Wow that sucks!! I hate it when any program decides to do that or the computer just decides to shut off....

I’m still kicking myself for not getting the headers coated, so maybe this winter or spring I’ll get them done. If it wasn’t such a pain to get them in/out I would definitely do it.

Right now I have a drop air cleaner base with 2” K&n with a x stream lid.

I will look into scoops and insulating the fuel lines or just re doing them.

Car is a 63 Galaxie box top 2-dr 500xl originally a 352. 63xxx miles.
 

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Wow that sucks!! I hate it when any program decides to do that or the computer just decides to shut off....

I’m still kicking myself for not getting the headers coated, so maybe this winter or spring I’ll get them done. If it wasn’t such a pain to get them in/out I would definitely do it.

Right now I have a drop air cleaner base with 2” K&n with a x stream lid.

I will look into scoops and insulating the fuel lines or just re doing them.

Car is a 63 Galaxie box top 2-dr 500xl originally a 352. 63xxx miles.
So, think about it over the winter, tough or not....

You are in a big trenchcoat and there is a heater directly under you......except that the trenchcoat is your drop base and the heater is your engine and your uncoated headers,

That big diving bell of a drop base holds the heat right where it shouldn't be, and I will tell you, if you didn't have the lid, you'd likely be choking the engine with that baby air cleaner.

Since it's a 63, I'd seriously look at a teardrop hood if you like them, man it would work well. Drive the carb up with a spacer, use a flat base with your lid, run a 3 or 4 inch filter, and then let heat escape. Icing on the cake would be ceramic coating headers, it only stings once, you'll love them both inside the car and under the hood

That being said, what I commented on earlier was your stroker choice. I haven't considered the 6.635 rods, but it makes a very nice street setup, a little more skirt there for longevity. I calculated with 74cc (likely out of the box) heads and your numbers that you are at 11.15:1 and 7.60 DCR. That's just fine, and I am going to keep it in my back pocket for the next 445 that comes through.

However, if you do go with the Promaxx Shockers, (great name LOL) I'd advance the cam a couple degrees while it's apart. I'd rather see you go with Trick Fuel heads though, peak flow is lower on paper, but the chamber is WAY better and flow is MUCH neater from seat to .600+ not to mention they seem to be over achievers in practice. If you did the TFS heads, I'd leave the cam where it is, as you end up at 11.6 SCR/ 7.91 DCR and you could even lash it a little tighter for longevity and even a bit more RPM, but it won't need it, plus it'll likely be more octane tolerant with the good chamber, and they only need 34 degrees total or so. Either head should significantly outflow what you have though.

In the end, chase heat now, and think everything else as being a contributor, but you have to solve the actual heat at the carb. Airflow is the best thing for it, get the air around the carb moving at both rest (heat rises) and moving (Cowl air pressure shopuld be higher than under the car, letting it come in the scoop and exit under the car)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks for the advice, info and help 427!

I’m not a big fan of the tear drops. I’ve got a rectangular pro stock scoop, 2” super sucker spacer, and a 6” filter on the way.

With the base I have and the spacer should put the filter above the hood line right in the scoop. The scoop should push a ton of air around the carb and out the engine bay.

Well I think I’ll go with the trick flow heads then. I’m not sure how far I can push this 2 bolt block but I think I’m close right now. With the new heads and single plane I’m sure It will rev well past 7k. I think I’ll be upgrading to a cross bolted cast pond block in the future, but if that’s the case I’ll be building a 427 square stroker.
 

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Sounds great! I am not a fan of the drop base bottoms as you can tell, but you likely will get there with what you listed. Not to mention, driving with a big scoop makes you feel 500% meaner the first time you pull out of the driveway!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Your opinion about the drop base makes total sense. I’ve got a few flat bottoms in the garage to choose from so I’ll throw one on.


Hahaha ya I’m sure it will!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So I got the scoop, spacer and standard air filter base/6" filter installed. It worked out quite well, I love it when then plan works out.

After driving it for about an hour I checked the carb temp and it was 40 deg Celsius cooler than before! So I think its safe to say no more boiling fuel. I had to go up one squirter size but I haven't had any bogging/fuel issues.

Now I just need to hook up the wideband to get the final tune done.

I've attached some photos of the car with the scoop and engine bay, I think it turned out pretty good. When I paint the car I'll graph the scoop in and fiberglass the hood so there's no gaps.

Thanks for all the help everyone!
 

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Wow, what a difference in temp! Sounds like it's ready, and a very cool car I'll add. Nice work
 

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I have a similar scoop on a mopar of mine and I sealed the carb to the bottom of the hood. In doing this I was able to go up two jet sizes and a couple degrees of timing. This gave me the quickest ET but it didn't work on the dyno. There is a small benefit from forced fresh air.👍
 
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