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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well i have a 67 gal with a 545 a 871 and dual power adder 1200 hp system with the g-surge fuel system, though it has taken oh about 2 years and and calls to funky tech to get it right, its now coming off because of some info i recieved from a fitech enginier on a problem i was having, and come to find out several others had the same issue, the problem is the fitech ecm, there are two tach signal wires that deal with the timing, now most of us all know blower motors need allot of timing so i ran mine at 36 all in locked and my temps are good, idle good, ran down the road good, had plenty low end and cruise power, now once it broke it in (the motor) i decided to give it to her, and i hit the throttle and at 4700 it acted like it was limiting, i removed all limiters or set them to 9000, it still did it, hence i called funky tech and i was told what the problem, it was my dizz being locked out and on the blue tach wire was the problem, the blue wire is if you want to do timing the black wire is for fitech to control timing, you cannot put a locked dizz on the blue wire because the fitech wants to see a timing curve by 3000, if it dont it limits you, so you now half to unlock the dizz run 20 and all in at 36 by 3000 but you loose a little power and pick up engine heat and blower motors dont like a timing curve, so if you put it on the black wire and program your timing into the fitech it will run great, but if you need to pull timing at higher rpm with a 3 step or external computor the fitech freaks out and dosent like that either, this coming from a fitech guy, so im done with that crap, i want to drive and enjoy the car not work on it everytme i turn around, so it now has dual quick fuel 850 boost ref brawler carbs, different fuel delivery system, and i am going to reinstall my locked dizz this weekend everything is installed except for the carb linkage its on the way, i reinstalled my 3 step and rpm switches to back out timing at higher rpms, should have went sniper but i may in the future on my wifes 80 vette im building but for my car back to carbs.
 

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You're the 3rd person in the past week I've heard say they dumped the throttle body stuff and went back to a regular carb. Less hassle and the last one, whatever make he had on his, only ran good at higher RPM and not slower or cruising around town speeds. I thought I wanted to try one a couple years ago but now I'm happy I hate change and stuck with a carb. Sounds like a lot of trouble!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I put my fitech on in 2019 it was the dual power added 1200pa with there g-surge kit, and complete fuel system as long as I drove it like a human it ran great, but that was after a ton of tuning, electrical issues, part failures, and most recently the ecm and its inability to play with external timing computers, there prob is better systems out there or they wouldn't be on the market, but I just feel the fitech has a lot to do in the way of blown and turbo applications and there electronics, I may use it on another project that's naturally aspirated but never again on a supercharger, I been a master ase tech for 40 years specializing in drivability, and electrical diagnostics, for me the hard scale was about a 5 out of 10, so use that scale on someone who never has had any experience in drivability it would be a nightmare for them, go to fitechtuning.com and see all the issues people shouldn't be having, fitech is a great way to get fuel injection on a stock or mild modified engine, and still yet there is a lot of issues especially with the install instructions being wrong and mis prints and not telling you of load short falls and modification you need to do, my switch to carbs cost me 2800, that's 2 quick fuel 850, two really nice regulators, 2 velocity stacks, 2 fuel pumps, a ton of new an fittings and braided lines a afr gauge, but now I can drive the car, i could have went sniper or edelbrock injection for that price but i need to wash the bad taste out from fitech first lol.
 

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…if you put it on the black wire and program your timing into the fitech it will run great, but if you need to pull timing at higher rpm with a 3 step or external computor the fitech freaks out and dosent like that either
Program your timing retard in the FiTech and skip the external box. Or, use the Fitech only for fuel, and use your locked distributor and retard box for the ignition if that's a better option for you. It doesn't sound like the fueling is an issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
no fueling isn't a issue, not sure how you would run it with a locked dizzy according to the fitech engineer I had on the phone (remarkable as that is ), he said I cannot run a locked dizzy on the blue wire because the ecm wants to see a curve by 3k if not the ecm will limit the motor, and I am not comfortable with the fitech running the timing on the black wire, now I don't know if the type of system has anything to do with that but it is the 1200pa with the g surge system, and after the whole host of mis printed directions, faulty cts,o2s and the electrical load issues with the fuel pumps and relays the ton of tuning you half to do the timing control issue was the last straw for me and the fitech, I been a drive guy and diagnostic tech for 35 years and a ase master tech, the fitech has some more ground to cover for what they claim it to do, the sniper is way better and then the edelbrock and fast fitech would be my last choice, but 6 1 half dozen the other don't matter at this point anymore, it has the qf 850 on it and runs great
 
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