[MNSJR]

My 1939 Ford Coupe has a 351W - stock 69 4v rebuild, RPM Perf. Intake, Edlebrock 600 carb, mild RV type cam and has about 60,000 miles on it. It was rebuilt 17 years ago with stock rail rocker heads and cup type valve stem seals.

It does the oil buff after it is cut off and restrated 10-20 min later. Overall the engine runs good. I bought a good quality compression gage tester but have not performed the test yet.

I would like to diagnose the engine and determine: (1) do I need a rebuilt. (2) or just replace valve stem seals to correct. (3) of possible install new better aftermarket heads such as AFR or Edlebrock.

What is the best diagnostic procedure?
Thanks

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI
The prob sounds like guide seals.. but new heads would be nice..
Run a compression check with out and with a squart of oil to see if the rings are good. run the check with/out first if theres not much differance then the rings are most likely good.
Tim

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: pedal2themetal45 on 5/2/06 11:22pm ]</font>

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

Well, since you mentioned it.... Go for the aftermarket aluminum heads and get some more power out of it! You can then upgrade your valve stem seals to the newer and longer lasting kind that they didn't have 17 years ago, and have more power and no more smoke puffs!

FE

 

[1 Bad 88 GT]

Pull the VC's, throw in some new stem seals, a set of VC gaskets and run it.

 

[forthman]

Stem seals, Get the newer type. Check though for worn guides.
Do the Compression check and if it looks good go for the after market heads.

 

[MNSJR]

THANKS - for the response. I am going to run compression check tonight. If this checks out, I will change out the valve stem seals. These are stock heads. I can not use the nylon type seal with out machining the guides. I do not want to take off these heads for that. Who makes a cup type seal of premium quality? I am running stock single valve springs. I have new valve springs, retainers and locks that I will install along with the seals.

If this does infact take care of the smoking issue, I will plan for Alum Heads later. I only drive the car 3,000 per year. Now I need to put my money in the 1966 Mustang. I need a complete front end rebuild, radio and A/C.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[MNSJR]

I just finished the compression test. All 8 cylinders did 150# on the first puff and 180/185# on 2 - 4 cycles. I squarted 30 weight oil in each cylinder - about 5-8 CC per squirt - I used a old plastic syringe. All cylinders jumped to 195/200# and after I spun about 6-7 times the compression would come back to 185/190#.

All eight cylinders tested the same with no measurable differance. Cylinder 1 and 6 plugs looked rich with soot, all other were tan . #1 and #6 plug cleaned off with a small wire brush after 2/3 strokes.

It seems the block (351W) is sound. Next project is to change out valve stem seals or if I save some coins - New Aluminum Heads.

Any other opinions - Please respond.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[forthman]

Sounds like you check #1 and #6 also for a worn guide.
But also sounds like new seals will take most of the problem away till you get your aluminum heads.

 

[MNSJR]

Thanks forthman. I did not think about the guides but it really makes sense. I will not put new guides in these heads - 20 years ago the C90e 4v heads were the hot ticket.

Now the Aftermarket heads really are cost effective.

Thanks to all for the help.
Mike