[Leeps]

Hi all, I have read a lot of threads on cooling. I have a 302 with an aluminum radiator and I run between 180 and 190 as long as I have a regular flow of air into the grill. One run through a cruise and I am headed north of 220 in a hurry. I think I will stick with the flex fan and shroud, although I may consider a larger radiator.

Does anyone have an oil cooler and have you found that to work? can I offset the oil cooler closer to one of the headlights? I have AC also and running out of room in the center of the grill.

I am interested in doing this but not if it will net me no change....

Thanks,
Mike

302, aluminum heads, roller rockers, 65 Falcon Ranchero

 

[64 futura]

Maybe it's a bad radiator, just because it's aluminum don't mean it's a good one. Sounds like you may have other problems ,poor coolant flow maybe , bad pump ,crap inside the block or radiator, ect. It should run cool with the heads you have , other than the heads ,is it stock or high performance ? My 64 runs cool with a 302 ,stock radiator and that's with out a fan shroud , flex fan only. I don't have AC and that can put a load on the engine.
Oil cooler may help if you can get some air to it at slow cruising speed, I don't know,never needed to try one.

 

[okura_hubby]

I also experience high temp at slow speeds. But if you get air moving it runs fairly cool. I think my problem is poor airflow due to fan inefficiencies (needs fan shroud).

Setup: Aluminum Rad, no shroud, and a 160thermostat. No AC..

Solutions: Fan Shroud will do wonders.. Also thinking an electric push fan that I can turn on to create airflow

Your AC Rad maybe causing poor airflow for your Rad. Might see if you can put in a push fan in front of the all that. Also may check to see if you can put a 160thermostat..

I seen some pics on here with guys with really thick aluminum rad's.I was going to try and see what ones they were using.

 

[64 futura]

I'v seen guys retard there timing to help keep there engine from pinging on some of the crappy gas they sell now days. That can cause overheating in some engines . If you haven't done that then I think it's air flow with the AC blocking the front of the radiator. Like I said just because it's an aluminium radiator don't mean it's a good one, to small maybe. Good luck , let us know how you fix it.----

 

[KULTULZ]

Also thinking an electric push fan that I can turn on to create airflow

CAUTION!

An electric pusher fan will reduce the frontal surface area of the radiator (air flow). A puller is more efficient. It is also an excellent upgrade to the old mechanical fan.

 

[KULTULZ]

:bicker:

...sheesh...

I forgot to mention the addition of an engine oil cooler (with temp gauge), whether air cooled or coolant cooled, along with an external trans cooler (w/ temp gauge) and PS cooler will take the engine temp way down.

 

[okura_hubby]

If you have a fan with shroud. And a low temp thermostat.
I know a bit extreme comparison but the AC Cobra's had push fans. The problem is low speed is causing low airflow so putting a pusher to work with the flexfan would help.. But I agree in idle mode it would further restrick flow but that is whent he car is moving and sufficient airflow is happening.
One of those Damn You Do - Damn you dont.. A few months back I saw an amazing flex fan with shroud and aluminum rad.. I wish I could remember the thread and the guy so I could PM him on details on parts..

 

[BlueBird]

.. A few months back I saw an amazing flex fan with shroud and aluminum rad.. I wish I could remember the thread and the guy so I could PM him on details on parts..

You might be thinking of 65FalconLover's Garage :: John's Hot Rod

His setup is beautiful!

 

[65FalconLover]

You might be thinking of 65FalconLover's Garage :: John's Hot Rod

His setup is beautiful!

Thanks for the complement, I really appreciate it. It is a very simple and inexpensive set-up that works really well. I have about $250 in the entire cooling system including the aluminum radiator, fan and shroud.

The car rairly runs over 180-190 and most of the time is in the 165-170 range. It doesn't matter what the air temp or humidity is either. It's all about having the correct air flow.

John

 

[okura_hubby]

Can you give us parts and location you got them.. I love the rad and shrowd.. Very nice and clean.

 

[65FalconLover]

The radiator is from Jegs.com (Summit also sells them) and is there smallest Universal Aluminum. I used the GM type due to the locations of the inlet/outlets. They're two row, 1" core and run about $150. I did have to get the lower one cut and flipped around for clearance on the alternator. I think I paid $30-40 for that work.

The fan is from Summit I believe, but most auto supply stores carry them. It's a Flex-a-lite 16" stainless bladed version. The shroud was custom made. I designed it and a local sheet metal shop built it for me. I think I paid about $60 for it. It's a pretty basic design really. It's just a flat box with a large hole (very slightly offset) and tabs on the top and bottom so it clamps in with the radiator. This way everything comes in/out together with no extra mounts needed. After I made sure it fit correctly I painted it silver and clearcoated it. You want the fan to be about 2/3 rds inside and the hole should be close to the blades but allow for engine movement otherwise bad things will happen.

As for the other stuff, I'm running a stock replacement water pump. I found the hoses I needed by using a piece of coat hanger bent into the way I needed the new hoses routed. I then took them down to my local NAPA store and they let me paw through their racks until I found the ones I needed. Now I have the replacement part numbers when I ever need them.

I've been down the road with electric fans, both pushing and pulling, two smaller, one large, etc., etc. and after nothing but heating and electrical problems decided to go back to basics. It's been flawless ever since.

Good luck!

John

 

[Comechero65]

First off get rid of the flex fan and use a 5 or 6 blade fixed fan. Or a clutch fan. Make sure to use a shroud for the best cooling. Use nothing higher than a 180 stat though I prefer a 160. Aluminum rads may cool better but the life expectancy is less. They oxidize and corrode away too fast for the added cost. A good brass rad with 3 or 4 cores will work just as well and last much longer. Has always worked for me. Just one opinion.
RS

 

[okura_hubby]

65..Lover,
Your shrowd is what makes it pop.. With the rad and shrowd I am almost oogly on it.

I hadnt thought about talking to a sheet metal guy. I guess a guy who does AC/Heater duct work for houses could fab one. If I had a shrowd on mine I bet I could improve my cooling by 20-30%..

Very very nice.

 

[juddp39532]

Make sure you have the rubber air block on the core suport to prevent the hot air from cirrculating over the top of the radiator and back into the radiator at slow speeds.

 

[Leeps]

Thanks Guys, sorry for the late response. Work is eating my brain and I forgot to check back....

Here are answers/comments to your posts

64 Futura: Its not stock. Has a 68 302, roller rockers, Techcraft cam, 320hp and 10:1 comp. Not a monster, but not stock either. I do have the timing adjusted and I know that can make it hotter, but I am not ready to wrench on it in order to make a couple cruise passes. I will have to be open to rethink that if its my only option in the end.

Okura: I have a shroud and the fan seems to fit appropriately within it. It's not as pleasing as John's, but what is? I have no room for a push fan in front of the AC core. No clearance between it and the hood latch support.

Kultulz: I could convert the flex fan to an electric puller, but there seem to be just as many with the opinion that the flex is better.

Judd: Not sure what you mean about the air block

John (Falcon Lover): I will refer to your post for trouble shooting.

I just changed the coolant, put in Water Wetter, new hoses and a 180 stat. I didn't know the age of those things and figured it should be done anyway. Following this, I let it sit in the driveway running for about 20 minutes. It never got above 180, but when I drive it - cool on the freeway, but starts to heat up on surface streets. The more red lights I catch the more it heats up. Still, nothing above 200, but I haven't tried cruising yet.

I guess I can take out the radiator and have it checked, but its less than 5 years old and from what I can see inside of it, it looks brand new. The water pump? Who knows. I would think if it were bad, it would be more obvious? It doesn't leak at all.

When I can, I will post a pic of my set up (as long as you don't judge in comparison to John's

I am still interested in an oil cooler, but I still need to get air through it and that means cutting a hole in the radiator wall (again, no room in the center) to get air through it. Well, see......

 

[PSIG]

... It never got above 180, but when I drive it - cool on the freeway, but starts to heat up on surface streets. The more red lights I catch the more it heats up. Still, nothing above 200, but I haven't tried cruising yet. ...

Assuming your temp gauge is correct - you are right-on. Your T-stat appears to be opening a tad early, but they should begin to open at rated temp, and be fully open 15-20° higher. So, 180+ to 200°F is what you should expect from that combo. It sounds like it's working correctly. My preferred 160° setups typically run 170-180° in traffic. If that's what you want, then switch to a performance high-flow 160° T-stat.

David

 

[65FalconLover]

Assuming your temp gauge is correct - you are right-on. Your T-stat appears to be opening a tad early, but they should begin to open at rated temp, and be fully open 15-20° higher. So, 180+ to 200°F is what you should expect from that combo. It sounds like it's working correctly. My preferred 160° setups typically run 170-180° in traffic. If that's what you want, then switch to a performance high-flow 160° T-stat.

David

I'm also running a 160 T-stat in my system and it works great. I guess I forgot to mention that.

John

 

[Hottarod]

I run an oil cooler on my drag car just because. I need all the help I can get. It is intended to keep the oil from foaming, cavitating or breaking down than just cooling.

 

[Mroldfart2U]

I dont doubt all the above other suggestions, except for the one thing that you havent done yet and thats the shroud, it will make a ton of difference if its an airflow problem.... M2C.....

 

[PSIG]

I dont doubt all the above other suggestions, except for the one thing that you havent done yet and thats the shroud, it will make a ton of difference if its an airflow problem.... M2C.....

Then I misunderstood - he said

... I have a shroud and the fan seems to fit appropriately within it. ...

If the shroud is not installed, then absolutely - the primary issue appears to be airflow related, and the shroud would help substantially in stabilizing the temps.
:tup:
David