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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, lets start off with what i have. I have a 1966 mustang, 289 with a 3 speed in it. I have gotten a 1986.5-1989 T5. I am useing the T5 bellhouseing, and have put the fulcrum spacer on it, as well as the old 3speed fork so i belive the bellhousing is good to go. The clutch and pressure plate seemed to be fine and i have a stock engine, (other than headers and an intake manifold), so i am just using the same clutch and pressure plate. I did however get a new throw out bearing (one that is a replacement for the 289 3speed, right, right?) I did not pull the engine, i have the car on jack stands, and am putting the tranny in from underneath. OK, i got the bellhousing on the engine just fine, my plan was to mount the bellhousing, then put the tanny on after that, should i put the bellhousing on the tranny, then mount all of on the engine? Ok, but this is what happened: After i got the bellhousing mounted on the engine i lifted the tranny up to put it on the bellhousing, but it wouldnt go all the way in. It would go in all but like 3/4"-1". The yoke on the tranny wont move, so i do have engagement, but i have tryed wiggleing a lot but to no avail. I removed the tranny several times and made sure the throw out bearing was properaly lined up, and it was and tryed to put the trany in like 6 times but the same thing kept on happening. I was thinking about cutting the input shaft an inch, but i dont think you need to, and i still dont even know if it would fix my problem, mabye make it worse! well any help is greatly needed!!! THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also since i got the bellhouseing on, i tryed to start it, wich was a big mistake, since the engine was tilted, the fan hit the shourd, which went through the radiator, now i have a small leak in it. Any way to cure this?
 

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you should install the trannt and bellhousing as a unit. That is why there are alighnment pins on the block, to ease installation. A tranny jack is a big help for this because it takes the heave ho factor out. Harbor Freight tools has a trans jack adaptor for a floor jack with 1" removable sadle on sale for $39. A steal considering a good trans jack goes for $250+. Your hosed on the radiator...either a recore or replacement is in order. Do not try to bump a starter if the tranny isn't fully engaged. You could seriously damage the tranny input shaft, flywheel or maybe even your radiator

Lee
 

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Boy, this sounds like deja vu... Seriously, if the throwout bearing slides along the bearing retainer on the tranny it should be ok.

As for the debate over bellhousing and trans together, well if you can it is the best way to go. Sometimes the header will get in the way and you have to pull one or both to put the trans and bell in as a unit. You don't have to put them on together, I never do. I would rather not pull the header.

IMPORTANT--- Learn to push that fork onto the throwout bearing without seeing it. Do it on the bench or driveway several times to get a "feel" for the fork sliding into the throwout bearing clips. The bearing needs some grease to hold it correctly oriented so the fork will have a chance to go in the clips. If you push the fork on, and it doesn't clip in correctly, you may end up doing the job again. I HAVE DONE THIS.

Tips on putting the bell on seperately (most of these tips apply even if you put the bell and trans together):

0. Always use a clutch alignment tool. You will get nowhere without this or an old input shaft.

1. Always use a new pilot bushing in the back of the block. Lightly lube it.

2. Put the bell on and snug up a few of the bolts.

3. Get some bolts just like the ones that hold the tranny to the bell and cut the heads off them. Thread them into the bell loosly with your fingers so they can be taken out to put the real ones in. These are your new alignment pins. Very, very helpful.

4. Make sure your tranny has the throwout bearing greased and oriented.

5. Make sure you have an old yolk (you can use your yolk with driveshaft in a pinch) you can slide into the tranny to turn the gears.

6. Make sure your tranny is in 4th gear. It is easiest to turn by hand that way (maybe fifth, never had a Five Speed)

7. Slide the trans into position via the guide pins you made.

8. Turn the output shaft (with the yolk) while pushing forward on the trans. With everything lined up with your pins it should go right in. By right in I mean you may have to push as hard as you can and wiggle it as much as you can! But keep the trans straight and level and you should not have too many problems.

9. If you are sure everything is aligned, you have busted all your knuckles, and have sworn every four letter word known to man, you may depress the clutch very slightly with heavy pressure pushing the trans in. This will let the clutch disc float just a tad and everything will go in.

10. Take out your pins and put the real bolts back in.

11. Slide the clutch fork in and make sure it clips in.

Just my observations after doing this many many times.

FOR THE RADIATOR- I've, sigh... done this as well. Take it out, put it on the bench and solder up the shaved off areas. Mine got chewed the first time I hit the brakes after an engine swap. The engine rocked forward and my radiator got shaved. If it is more than shaved, go to a pro or replace it.


Andy in San Jose

_________________
64 Falcon Convertible
Five Bolt 289
Ansen Five Bolt Scattershield
Toploader 4-Speed
65 Hi-Po Mustang 9" Rear

99 Superduty CrewCab 4x4
7.3 INTERCOOLED TURBO
6-Speed

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 64Pelican on 5/1/02 11:53pm ]</font>
 

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I had the same problem with my swap, but all it required was a little turning of the driveshaft (it was a pinch) and a little jiggling, and it slid right in. I am, however using the late model bellhousing (88 5.0) and a Z spec T5 with a diaphragm clutch. If you are using the original 289 long style, I'm not sure if it will work. For one thing, the pivot ball on the right side of the bellhousing hits the pressure plate about an inch out. Since you aren't using a cable activated linkage like I am, you could take out the pivot, but I don't think you'd have enough clearance even with the early style fork. With the late model bellhousing, you're probably gonna need a diaphragm clutch. (I was there myself. 8:00 at night after a full day working on the car, and finding out I have the wrong clutch set. I was NOT happy.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
THANKS to everyone who replied. I got it in today, a little this a little that. Extra tanks to 64Pelican, Tips helped out A LOT! well now i got it in, when i was putting it in i took the shifter shaft off, now i wish i didnt, how to take the rubber off the floor?
 
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