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Discussion Starter #1
Gonna take you guys back a few years here and pose a question that hopefully somebody out there can answer. Those old B&M blowers, the 144's 174's and I think 250's, will they fit under a stock hood and if not how about a 2" cowl hood? I've been looking around for one of these and I think I have found one fairly reasonably priced. Also, if need be, can I still get parts to restrip this thing if the teflon is wore on it? I know the fuel injection guys are shaking their heads right now but hey it's all in the name of fun right? BTW it would be going in my 85 GT.
 

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Pretty sure that you're going to need something like a 2" cowl hood to clear, and that will depend on your air cleaner selection of course. All of the cars that I ever saw pics of with that blower had some sort of scoop or raised hood.

As far as getting one refurbished, maybe contact B&M directly for suggestions on that if nobody else here has any leads.



cheers
Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Shouldn't be a big deal then, I have a 2" cowl hood on the car now. I am looking into some of the related parts required to do this install. Right now the biggest concern is the idler/tensioner pulley. The current owner does not have that part and to replace it looks to be about $300.00, now my understanding so far is the reason they use a spring loaded tensioner is in case of a backfire the it is designed to have the belt slip rather than damage the blower, whereas a cogged belt uses some sort of burst plate for blower protection. My though is if I am going to use a serpentine belt why can't I come up with a non spring loaded tensioner system? If I have to buy a tensioner from Holley/B&M for 300 the deal on the blower isn't a deal anymore.
 

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Weiand (now a division of Holley) can provide the Teflon strips, parts or rebuilding. The idler assembly is pretty slick, but if you're building your own, then do your thing that keeps it under proper tension. Sprung or fixed won't matter to a blower backfire as the load only increases. It can't use slack in the unloaded side directly, and the rib belt is the slip point for the reasons you stated.

While you could use a low-profile EFI throttle body to get hood clearance, a carb would be most straightforward. Either way flows fuel through the case for cooling. Those units were designed and clearanced for wet-case operation. If you went to under-blower EFI injection, the unit would have to be re-clearanced for dry-case operation.

While they are 'old' technology, they are still useful units. There's a '70 Mustang bracket car with a 306 and 174 running low 10s at my local track. Of course, being a hot-air unit and no intercooling, he has to use race fuel to do it. But, it's still cheap thrills to run the weekend or a full day with gate entry and fuel for under $100.

David
 
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