[FlyByFord]

I installed a one wire voltage regulator from Falcon Enterprises on the alternator of my Falcon. I noticed that after the battery had been hooked up for 10-15 minutes the regulator was getting hot to the touch, that's without the car even running. When the car is runnning I checked voltage at the solenoid and had over 17.5 volts, at the battery I have about 13 volts (the battery is in the trunk, long cable).

I double checked all connections and grounds, they all are correct.

I can't figure why the regulator is getting hot. I would guess that there would have to be a current draw from something making this happen. But the ony wire that is going to anything from the alt besides the "battery" wire is a wire for the idiot light on the dash.

If anyone has had a problem with one of these let me know, or if anyone can add any insight I would much appreciate it.

I don't know what to do really, should I scrap the one wire regulator thing and just wire up a new "regular" voltage regulator??? BTW this is a brand new alternator.

I did contact Falcon Enterprises, they suggest I get the alternator tested with and without the regulator. But they said they have not heard of this problem.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HHMMM Never hear of a one wire regulator.. one wire alternator yes, but regulator no.. but thats nothing new I guess.. Maybe its hooked up wrong??

If its hooked up to the wire that comes from the battery then it would be hot (powered) all the time and could cause it to heat up..
Tim

 

[pedal2themetal45]

OH Testing the alt ain't going to help if its heating up with the motor off?
Tim

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: pedal2themetal45 on 5/18/06 2:56am ]</font>

 

[FALCONAROUND]

If the wire going from the battery into the regulator is getting HOT, then you have STUCK points in the regualtor... Or the wire is powering SOMETHING in the car.... The draw is what makes it hot.

FE

 

[rayell]

I think like Tim. I have not heard of a one wire regulator except on a Mopar. I can't understand how an external Ford regulator could work with one wire. Which of the terminals on the alternator do you hook the one wire too?

 

[FlyByFord]

This is what I am talking about:

http://www.falconparts.com/search_results.asp?txtsearchParamTxt=f7078&txtsearchParamcat=ALL&txtsearchParamType=ALL&iLevel=1&txtsearchParamMan=ALL&txtsearchParamVen=ALL&txtFromSearch=fromSearch&btnSearch.x=8&btnSearch.y=10

It connects to the back of a standard 1965 Ford Alternator so that you only use one wire off of the alternator.

Something has to be drawing current for the thing to get hot.
I will have to check one wire at a time and see what I find.

I was also thinking of going with a Solid State Voltage Regulator and just mounting it back in the original location.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

OK
Thanks for the link it helps....
How do you have it hooked to the battery?? By what I read you should have a 10 gage wire comming from the solenoid Battery side to the Battery terminal on the Alt... Is that how you have it?? and the lose wire goes to the light in the dash or you can cut it off.
Its not realy a one wire regulator as I would think as being one wire as it has 5 wires to hook up,, it just a solidstate regulator that mounts on the alt..
Ok so where do you have the wire from the battery hooked up to on the alt??
Tim

 

[FALCONAROUND]

Also, where the batery wire hooks up o nthe alt. there is a plastic insulator, be SURE that the insulator is insulating.... I've seen many people overtighten them and short out the alt and they catch fire often due to that...

FE

 

[pedal2themetal45]

OH
You could accomplish the same thing easer by just installing a one wire alternator. It realy is just one wire.
tim

 

[FlyByFord]

Ok so where do you have the wire from the battery hooked up to on the alt?

The battery wire is a 10 ga. wire hooked up to the battery side of the solenoid.

I'll check the "battery wire connection" on the alternator to ensure that it is INSULATED.



_________________
1964 Falcon - 260 V8 with a C4
2001 Ford Taurus - 3.0L V6, 24 Valve
2001 Ranger Edge, torsion bar lift, 31 BFG's

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: FlyByFord on 5/18/06 11:31pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: FlyByFord on 5/19/06 9:18pm ]</font>

 

[pedal2themetal45]

On 2006-05-18 08:29, FlyByFord wrote:

The battery wire is a 10 ga. wire hooked up to the battery side of the solenoid.
<font color="red"> the other end of that wire should go to the battery (or bat) post on the alt.</font>

I'll check the "battery wire connection" on the alternator to ensure that it is grounded
<font color="red">

NO, NO, NO The battery wire connection (wire comming from the battery) on the alt should NOT be grounded... or you well have a dead short.. and fry wires and stuff.. </font>

Tim

 

[FlyByFord]

<font color="red">

NO, NO, NO The battery wire connection (wire comming from the battery) on the alt should NOT be grounded... or you well have a dead short.. and fry wires and stuff.. </font>

Fixed that, my fingers did not type what I was thinking. I need to make sure the battery wire is INSULATED on the back of the alternator, as suggested in an early post.

I appreciate all the suggestions.

I am leaning towards a defective regulator.
I am going to try a new one, and if that doesn't work, I'll just go with a regulator mounted on the core support, and run the wires to it.