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i dont know for sure ,but that shroud might be the problem....
its so flat and close to radiator...
i have a feeling that air is only moving thru directly where fan is
especialy at higher speed...

you may want to do something simular like the one in picture i posted...
shouldent be to hard to fab......
Good point.
 

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i dont know for sure ,but that shroud might be the problem....
its so flat and close to radiator...
i have a feeling that air is only moving thru directly where fan is
especialy at higher speed...

you may want to do something simular like the one in picture i posted...
shouldent be to hard to fab......
X2 on the shroud .
No air passing the flat areas . move shroud away from radiator far as possibleand box in sides
 

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Discussion Starter #24
i dont know for sure ,but that shroud might be the problem....
its so flat and close to radiator...
i have a feeling that air is only moving thru directly where fan is
especialy at higher speed...

you may want to do something simular like the one in picture i posted...
shouldent be to hard to fab......
Thinking about just leaving the fan shroud off, putting to fan directly on the radiator
 

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Before you get crazy with spending a ton of cash on fans, radiators, or with people suggesting cracked heads:
Double check the coolant temperature.
Electrical gauges need to be referenced to a master guage, and even manual coolant temp gauges can be off.

good luck!
Drew
 

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Can the shroud be removed from the radiator?

This might be off the wall, but if you live close to a freeway, is it possible to pull the fan and shroud off and drive the car for a while at freeway speeds?

When I look at my factory shroud, it's large and is shaped to funnel air towards the fan.

Your shroud looks like much of the outside air is hitting a brick wall, and the only air the fan is drawing in is an area that's equal to the size of the fan opening.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Can the shroud be removed from the radiator?

This might be off the wall, but if you live close to a freeway, is it possible to pull the fan and shroud off and drive the car for a while at freeway speeds?

When I look at my factory shroud, it's large and is shaped to funnel air towards the fan.

Your shroud looks like much of the outside air is hitting a brick wall, and the only air the fan is drawing in is an area that's equal to the size of the fan opening.
Jerry, same thing RAGGAREN was saying in an earlier post, and looking at it, i believe that is the problem. I took the fan shroud off today, put the fan back on the radiator with some plastic fasteners. I have a trip to make tomorrow, about 30 miles each way. I will know for sure when i get back. Sometime you just overlook the obvious, and that sure looks like a bad deal to me. About 1/2 inch away from the radiator, don't think much air was going thru it, except where the fan was. Got my fingers crossed!!
 

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Jerry, same thing RAGGAREN was saying in an earlier post, and looking at it, i believe that is the problem. I took the fan shroud off today, put the fan back on the radiator with some plastic fasteners. I have a trip to make tomorrow, about 30 miles each way. I will know for sure when i get back. Sometime you just overlook the obvious, and that sure looks like a bad deal to me. About 1/2 inch away from the radiator, don't think much air was going thru it, except where the fan was. Got my fingers crossed!!
Good luck.

My car overheating on the highway had me real nervous especially since I was over 100 miles away from home, all highway trip.

RAGGAREN's post is the one that got me thinking.
 

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PIt is hooked up to straight manifold vacuum, don't hav a port on carburator to hook to, so it at full advance all time, keeps it all up to about 3000 rpm, didn't check any higher. My centrifical has been reworked, comes in a little quicker. Can i just unhook vacuum advance, work the timing just thru the mechanical?
I just saw this post and forgive me if its been addressed.

Manifold vacuum to the distributor is fine, but how are you setting initial timing? Just want to verify that you indeed UNHOOK and plug the vacuum advance for setting base timing.

If you arent, the timing will be too far retarded and will overheat when worked hard, not to mention is probably a bit of a pig at WOT compared to what it should be
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I just saw this post and forgive me if its been addressed.

Manifold vacuum to the distributor is fine, but how are you setting initial timing? Just want to verify that you indeed UNHOOK and plug the vacuum advance for setting base timing.

If you arent, the timing will be too far retarded and will overheat when worked hard, not to mention is probably a bit of a pig at WOT compared to what it should be
I put 12 degrees in it with the vacuum off and pluged, seems to run ok
 

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Well, so much for removing the fan shroud! Might have helped a little tho, drove it about 20 miles, running a 65-70 mph. The temp stayed on about 200, didn't cool down quite as good when i slowed down, or at idle.This was in about 55 degreed weather, would be ok if it would do this in 100 degree weather, but i am really afraid it will not work when the outside temp reaches that high. Really had high hopes on that fixing the problem. Thinking it has to have some cylinder combustion getting in it, can't think of anything else that i can do. Any more thoughts on it?? I did check the gauge with a therometer in the radiator, and it is within a couple of degrees.
 

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Combustion gasses getting in coolant will only add pressure to the coolant, not heat it up.

Do you know for sure that it's a 390 and not a bored 352? I know they're the same block, but can you imagine the possibility of it being bore too far and having the thin cylinder walls make it run hotter than necessary?

Ross (my427stang) runs a Stroked and Bored 390 and has no issues with his running hot, and I've personally seen +60 bored 390s never have heating issues, but there is some truth to the old tale about punching a 390 too far.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Combustion gasses getting in coolant will only add pressure to the coolant, not heat it up.

Do you know for sure that it's a 390 and not a bored 352? I know they're the same block, but can you imagine the possibility of it being bore too far and having the thin cylinder walls make it run hotter than necessary?

Ross (my427stang) runs a Stroked and Bored 390 and has no issues with his running hot, and I've personally seen +60 bored 390s never have heating issues, but there is some truth to the old tale about punching a 390 too far.
No, i am not for sure about the engine, just know i pulled it out of a '68 torino. It does have the GT heads on it. Any numbers on it that i can tell for sure?? I have run 390 engines for many years, never had a problem like this on one, really getting aggrivated with it, lol
 

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could be a cracked head... if everything else has been done... Here's how I would check it...

I use the fittings from my compression gauge, it has a quick disconnect that fits my air hose... shove 120lbs of air into each cylinder through the spark plug holes and crank it over with the starter... leave the radiator cap off and if you have a crack or bad head gasket it will empty the radiator.. so stand clear of it.. works like a charm trust me..

disconnect the ignition first
 
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