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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Couple of days ago the temp gauge went to 220 and she started to spit out antifreeze out the overflow. I changed the thermostat today, all they had was a 195 fail safe thermo. Now she runs 205,210 I bought the car in mar of this year and she ran 180,190 200 tops. It has the big aluminum radiator, flex fan and stock type waterpump. Do 429 run hot or am I missing something?
 

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They will run hot just like any other motor if things are not right. Make sure water is circulating and water pump is Ok. I think I would flush the radiator first with a flush kit and refill with distilled water, rust preventative additive and a little antifreeze.
 

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Pull the thermostat out and te W/P hose off and back flush it. Could be rust and scale is plugging the block up.
 

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You didn't mention a shroud, do you have one? If you don't , you may think about getting one, it will make a big difference.
 

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On 2006-07-04 16:59, Nourse wrote:
Couple of days ago the temp gauge went to 220 and she started to spit out antifreeze out the overflow. I changed the thermostat today, all they had was a 195 fail safe thermo. Now she runs 205,210 I bought the car in mar of this year and she ran 180,190 200 tops. It has the big aluminum radiator, flex fan and stock type waterpump. Do 429 run hot or am I missing something?
Recalling those days of yester year...These engines were in Cop cars and Taxis, as well as Mom 'n Pops. The 429 was not more or less prone to overheating than any other engine. However, there was the issue of retarded timing and other ignition modifications that Ford made to bring down emissions in the later model 429's. That was not a good thing and could/did increase heat in the engine compartment.

Flex fan can cover a lot of ground; how many blades, what diameter, how close is it to the radiator? Assuming this is an engine swap, you may need to go to a electic fan or thermo coupled direct drive.

When does it over heat? while idling, while driving..that will help you decide if it is air flow or capacity. Just because it has an aluminum radiator, doesn't mean it is large enough, has the capacity for extended driving, extended idling or is suitable in places like AZ, NM, So CA or TX.

If you have a marginal heat exchange system (too small radiator, no shroud or need system flush. It will show up in the heat of summer, compared to the more temperate times of the year.

Have it checked out before changing a lot of stuff.... Uh, it goes without saying...don't take it to Jiffy Lube.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 7/5/06 11:33pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's was still overheating last week, so I drained the radiator and the bottom of the radiator were the hose goes on it was almost completely gone from rust. So I have a new one coming this week. My question is I replaced the water pump and there was no backing plate on the old one. Do I need one and would this be Another reason why it was overheating? This is my first Ford and I don't have a clue!
 

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Yes you need that plate, might want to back flush your engine to. All that rust came from the engine. Check your core plugs for leaks and rotting out.
 

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Just drove my 429 back from the exhaust shop-its about 90 with high humidity here now and ran it fairly hard coming home. Stayed on 190 except stop lights it went to 200-203 max. I think I can live with that. FMS water pump, 24 X 18 alum rad, march pulleys and 16" 6 blade flex fan and no AC. I think I have a 185 thermostat in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got it back together late afternoon and she ran about 190 to 200. It was about 98 degrees outside. I went with a 26X18 aluminum radiator and a 180 thermostat and a new waterpump Thanks for the help!
 

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Nourse,

Glad you seem to have gotten your over heating problems addressed. Where did you get the radiator, who made it, what hoses (top and bottom) did yoiu end up using - factory or flex?

By the way, just couldn't resist asking about your install of 3 in exhaust, does that go over the axel, or turndown before axle or exit out the side?

Been real curious of any of the late '60's Galaxies with full 3 in exhausts that go over the axle and exit at the rear bumper. Most of us have had to compromise to get thru the coil, shock, gas tank, upper link "maze"...trying to get a 3 in pipe thru there has been the "Holy Grail", at least it has for me.

Looking at your photo gallary picture shows your car isn't jacked to the Moon either. So, curious readers want to know...Ancient Chinese secret, or just follow the signs? How did you get a full 3in to the rear? description of the route woube be good; but..pictures, now that would be great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It is a Howe radiator and I used flex hoses.The radiator was 164.00 with tax it had a factory blemish, the exhaust goes over the axles. I have a fuel cell in the trunk to make room under car for the pipes. I can email you pics of the exhaust monday if you like?
 

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On 2006-07-15 10:26, Nourse wrote:
It is a Howe radiator and I used flex hoses.The radiator was 164.00 with tax it had a factory blemish, the exhaust goes over the axles. I have a fuel cell in the trunk to make room under car for the pipes. I can email you pics of the exhaust monday if you like?
Not really necessary to send pictures...once you mentioned that you have a fuel cell in the trunk, that explained the whole thing. The quest continues.

You got a very good price on the radiator
...I've seen them listed as high as $400+ for replacement style that bolted in similar to the factory location, down to $200 - 250 for universal fit, without internal/AT cooler. Of course, you didn't need transmission cooler with that 4-speed.

How much trouble was the clutch, linkage, bellhousing when changing from FE to LIMA? Most of the time the 429 engines are hard to keep in the same location as factory - which throws off everything from the transmission crossmember, forward to how close the engine can be to the firewall all the way to how much room is left for a belt driven fan. Unless you go with hydralic, that complicates things as far as fabrication, but makes it easier to get installed since you don't have to find all the special factory parts and make them fit together...just guessing, I would take the easy AT - C6 route, but there is just something special about a big car, a big motor and a manual shift. My hats off to you..
.

I see you took the brute force solution to hood clearence. The hood was asking for it officer, I had to cut 'em.


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Of all the rest..."There are three faithful friends, an old wife, an old dog, and ready money..."-- Benjamin Franklin, 1738 --

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 7/16/06 3:15am ]</font>
 
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