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Discussion Starter #1
As some of you have seen I've posted a few questions regarding temp in the past and now I'm more stumped than ever. The car giving me the fits is my 66 Galaxie 500 with a stock 289, hei distributor and 500 cfm holley 2bbl. I was told it was rebuilt about 21,000 miles ago but I have not confirmed this.

The car will overheat under normal driving conditions both around town and on the highway. I have had the block back flushed, and installed new hoses, new 160 degree t-stat (tested beforehand), water pump, fan shroud, radiator and cap. After all this it still overheated. I pulled the heads and had them checked for cracks (they were ok). We installed new top end gaskets and timed it to 8 degrees initial and crossed our fingers that that would fix the problem. It didn't. Now I'm stumped. Is there anything I'm overlooking?
 

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Why do you think it's overheating? What are the verified temperatures at extended idle, slow cruise and high cruise? What other symptoms does it have? Please be very specific.

David
 

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Do you mean the engine or carb was overhauled?

The damnest thing I have ever seen is a guy that put the fan blade on backwards... :frown:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Why do you think it's overheating? What are the verified temperatures at extended idle, slow cruise and high cruise? What other symptoms does it have? Please be very specific.

David
Extended idle will get to about 190 on the left bank and 210 on the right bank
slow cruise will get to 210 on the left bank and 220 on the right bank
high cruise will get to 218 on the left and 240 on the right bank.
The slow cruise temps will reach the high cruise temps if run long enough.
These are temps taken at the front of the heads with an infrared themo.

When the right side is reading that high it will boil the coolant. The only other symptom that I experience is my oil pressure light coming on when the car is on the hot end of these temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you mean the engine or carb was overhauled?

The damnest thing I have ever seen is a guy that put the fan blade on backwards... :frown:
The engine was supposedly overhauled about 11 years ago (21,000 miles) before it was parked for 7 years.

The fan is installed correctly and is pulling air through the rad.
 

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I have had the block back flushed
Was it done @ a radiator shop with a pressure gun? What came out of the cooling jackets? Any mud floating in the coolant? Seven years is a long sit with the same coolant.

It sounds like there is flow blockage @ the right cyl head.

This is a stock 289, no later 5.0L parts?
 

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The engine was supposedly overhauled about 11 years ago (21,000 miles) before it was parked for 7 years.

The fan is installed correctly and is pulling air through the rad.

Do you have enough oil in the pan? I saw once a guy who rebuild a car with the wrong dipstick, and it read full with about a quart and a half in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Was it done @ a radiator shop with a pressure gun? What came out of the cooling jackets? Any mud floating in the coolant? Seven years is a long sit with the same coolant.

It sounds like there is flow blockage @ the right cyl head.

This is a stock 289, no later 5.0L parts?
The block was flushed at a rad shop with a high pressure gun and lots of silt and gunk came out. They actually flushed it twice to make sure it was clear.

The heads were cleaned up and i blew compressed air through them to make sure there were no obvious blockages. None of the passages whistled at a higher pitch than the others that would indicate to me a blockage in the head.
Not that it isn't a possibility but that was the way I checked them after the machine shop did.

The only aftermarket parts are the carb and the hei distributor. The engine would overheat before the addition of these parts. The rest of the engine is stock.

And Kingofazle the dipstick is stock and shows plenty of oil.
 

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Is the radiator new? Did you do the engine flush before or after the radiator? What size is the radiator and how many rows? What pressure is the cap?
 

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I watched a guy burn up a small block Chevy by having the intake gaskets in incorrectly. Did you pay careful attention to the markings on the gaskets when you reinstalled the heads?
 

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To check your water pressure pull off the heater hose and point it in a safe direction. Crimp off some of the end with a vise grips or your thumb. Start the car and see how far the water squirts. Idling, the pressure is only 2 psi. Run up the rpm and if the water doesn't come blasting out of there there's your problem.

If you know what the pressure should be at xx rpm, you could get more scientific and connect your old vacuum/fuel pressure gauge to the hose and check it from there. Or buy one Spectre/0 to 15 PSI fuel pressure gauge with fittings for 1/8 in. NPT (59013) | | AutoZone.com
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Is the radiator new? Did you do the engine flush before or after the radiator? What size is the radiator and how many rows? What pressure is the cap?
The radiator is new the flush was done to the block only as to keep the crap out of the rad. It is a 2 row unit 18x18.5 with a 13 pound cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I watched a guy burn up a small block Chevy by having the intake gaskets in incorrectly. Did you pay careful attention to the markings on the gaskets when you reinstalled the heads?
Yes we made sure the gaskets were correctly installed and didn't use the end gaskets on the intake going with high temp silicone instead.
 

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You should have replaced the radiator with a 4 row? Use a 16 lb cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You should have replaced the radiator with a 4 row? Use a 16 lb cap.
If I had a choice in the matter I would have. The rad replacement was the only one I could find on the fly in a last ditch effort to fix it while stuck in Washington state. Fe spent more than a little while on the phone giving me advice and things to try. I still owe him a beer next time I'm in Seattle.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Fuel and timing adjusted correctly?
Timing is adjusted to 8 degrees btdc. I reinstalled the stock carb today and the innards of the carb were adjusted to stock spec with the rebuild kit. Other than that I adjusted idle speed and mix by ear.
 

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You need a 4 row and 3000 cfm of air to stay cool in the summer heat.
 

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13 lb cap is good. Strange that it should cool it. After all it came that way. Only thing I can think of is a blockage in the rad.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So I guess a bigger rad is the next step? Hard to believe that the stock equipment doesn't do the job anymore. Is the configuration of a 460 radiator's hose inlet and outlet anywhere near a small blocks? Is it worth the monkeying around to make it work?
 
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