Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am fixing to hook up my Pertronix in my 68 Galaxie with a 390. Everything is installed minus the electrical wiring. I have read many conflicting threads on the pink resistor wire. In the picture I posted, it shows the red wire that goes to my distributor and following it back it runs into a square plug then changes to what appears to be a brown wire, which thens runs through the firewall in behind the dash.

Does this brown wire run to this pink resistor wire that everyone speaks of?

Do I delete this pink wire or bypass it so that i can run 12 volts to the pertronix?

final, do I run this wire to both the coil and the modulator or run the wire to the modulator while still using the resistor wire on the coil?

Sorry in advance for the never ending pertronix wiring issue, and thanks for any advised.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,855 Posts
That BROWN wire goes to your IGN solenoid "I" terminal, to supply cranking voltage to the coil at start up. After the engine starts and the key is releases the brown wire only carries the nominal voltage that comes through the resistor wire.

If your COIL requires the use of a ballast resistor then use the original coil wire that goes to your original Coil + and all will be as the good Ford intended.

The PERTRONIX RED WIRE get's 12V but it don't need to get it from the COIL +, the OEM coil + wire can go to the coil + and the pertronix can get a Switched power wire to be active when the key is in the start and run position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok the pictures that I posted is of the Resistor wire that runs into the backside of my ignition switch. I noticed that it felt different than the other wires and that it had Resistor printed onto it. There was also a Red wire with Yellow stripe that ran to the same spot as my resistor. So if this is right, I quick spliced a Red 16 gauge wire into the red with yellow stripe wire and ran it to both the flame thrower coil and the modulator.

Final two questions.

Do I need to run a ground wire from the - side of the coil to the block or something metal?

Does the Brown wire that runs from the solenoid into the square plug need to be hooked back up to the + side of the coil?
 

Attachments

·
Subscriber
Joined
·
765 Posts
from reading your last post, it sounds like you've bypassed the resistor wire, and are powering the coil + and the pertronix with full 12v.

if you're running a stock coil- this is not good. you're going to burn it up.

if you're running an aftermarket coil that can handle 12v, you should be okay.

and no- don't ground the coil negative terminal.
 

·
Subscriber
Joined
·
765 Posts
Does the Brown wire that runs from the solenoid into the square plug need to be hooked back up to the + side of the coil?
If my earlier post was correct, and you're powering the coil with 12v, then no- you don't need the 12v feed from the starter solenoid during cranking.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,855 Posts
Ok the pictures that I posted is of the Resistor wire that runs into the backside of my ignition switch. I noticed that it felt different than the other wires and that it had Resistor printed onto it. There was also a Red wire with Yellow stripe that ran to the same spot as my resistor. So if this is right, I quick spliced a Red 16 gauge wire into the red with yellow stripe wire and ran it to both the flame thrower coil and the modulator.

Final two questions.

Do I need to run a ground wire from the - side of the coil to the block or something metal?

Does the Brown wire that runs from the solenoid into the square plug need to be hooked back up to the + side of the coil?
Listen!!!

Take the JUMPER WIRE to the PERTRONIX ONLY. Leave the Stock Coil+ WIRE going to the Coil+.

The COIL - ONLY get's the Black wire from the PERTRONIX unit.

YES the brown wire "should" be hooked back up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am running the Flame Thrower Coil with this setup. The reason I asked is because the Flame Thrower instructions states that I can run full 12 volts to this coil. I just wasnt sure About the Brown Wire that runs from the solenoid to the plug that changes to the red wire that initially ran to the stock coil.

As of right now all I have hooked to the Flame Thrower coil is my 12 volt bypass wire and the black and red wire from the modulator. Am I missing Something or does this sound right with you guys. Thanks for the responces
 

·
Subscriber
Joined
·
765 Posts
sounds right to me.

the brown wire supplies 12v while cranking.
since you've bypassed the resistor wire, you're already supplying 12v- so the brown wire is not needed.

if you were running a stock coil, it would be a different story.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok many thanks. This is my first build using this and im not very savvy on the electrical part and didnt want to burn my car up lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
super old thread I know but does the OEM ignition wire (pink out of switch) get voltage when key is in start position? I assume yes but I too am hooking up different distributor/coil and it wants 12v constant during crank and run.
 

·
Subscriber
Joined
·
765 Posts
super old thread I know but does the OEM ignition wire (pink out of switch) get voltage when key is in start position? I assume yes but I too am hooking up different distributor/coil and it wants 12v constant during crank and run.
yes.
the stock wiring supplies 12v during crank via the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid.
that isn't necessary anymore if you're going to a newer-style ignition that just takes full 12v.

you have some options-
remove the pink wire and replace with regular wire, or use the old wiring to trigger a relay, etc.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,669 Posts
super old thread I know but does the OEM ignition wire (pink out of switch) get voltage when key is in start position? I assume yes but I too am hooking up different distributor/coil and it wants 12v constant during crank and run.
pink wire has a resistor built in up /near ignition switch..
if you by pass resistor/tie into pink wire before resistor

you will have 12V in run position......


but need brown wire from I post on solenoid to supply coil with 12V while key is in crank position
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
594 Posts
...use the old wiring to trigger a relay, etc.
I would not do this. The OEM circuit is as simple as it can be: the ignition switch is connected to the battery and then the switch supplies voltage to the coil. There is no fuse, and as few connectors as possible, thus is very dependable. Introduce a relay and you have a device that will wear out, along with a second circuit.

"Whatever can go wrong will."
 

·
Subscriber
Joined
·
765 Posts
I would not do this. The OEM circuit is as simple as it can be: the ignition switch is connected to the battery and then the switch supplies voltage to the coil. There is no fuse, and as few connectors as possible, thus is very dependable. Introduce a relay and you have a device that will wear out, along with a second circuit.

"Whatever can go wrong will."
You're not wrong, that's a solid point - but if you don't use a relay, now you're talking about pulling more current than was intended through some 60-year-old wiring.

i try to use the best-quality relays i can get my hands on for critical circuits like this.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
594 Posts
You're not wrong, that's a solid point - but if you don't use a relay, now you're talking about pulling more current than was intended through some 60-year-old wiring.

i try to use the best-quality relays i can get my hands on for critical circuits like this.
When I did this mod to my car (electronic ignition) I found it far easier to cut the ignition wire a few inches from the switch then pull a new wire through a grommet in the firewall (where I have other wires) then directly to the coil.

Relays are great for headlamps, and other high wattage devices. Believe me, I have a whole sub-panel full of them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,669 Posts
So, no need to retain the old brown off the solenoid then it seems. Thanks.
while switch is in cranking position no voltage goes to pink wire..
brown wire supply voltage to coil while cranking
when you let go of key, power switches back to pink wire...


i could be wrong, but that's my understanding.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
okay, well it's simple enough to test and run two wires if need be, my el cheapo HEI dizzy arrived today and doesn't look too bad really, at $50 delivered even if it only serves as a diagnostic tool it's cheap enough to shelf and go a different direction if it's junk
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top