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I am fixing to wire up my Pertronix II, I have read several post that the Pink resistor wire must be bypassed in order to receive 12 volts at either the coil or the modulator. I checked my wires in the engine bay and seen that I have a red wired (Pictured) that runs to the Distributor. The red wire feeds back to a square plug then changes to what looks like a brown wire (also Pictured) and runs through the firewall.

Does this brown colored wire run to this pink resistor wire and if so, do I simply delete the pink wire or bypass it.

Next, do I run this new wire to both the coil and modulator or just to the modulator.

Sorry in advance for the new thread on this issue. the other threads was not clear enough and seemed to have to many disagreements on this procedure.
Thanks for any info.
 

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I can't say that I remember the specifics or your question. Seems to me brown will go to the I post of the solenoid (which produces a 12V source during starting) and the red wire will be the resisted circuit.

You can test this by probing the wires. If I'm right, while the engine is running, the red wire will be 9V, and I think the brown wire would show no voltage.

In any case, when I want to make 12V from this circuit, I leave as much as possible in tact, and use the 9V signal to trigger a relay. This requires a new power wire to be ran but allows easy removal later without butchering the factory harness too badly.
 

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The disagreements in wiring come from confusion between the instructions and the version being used. Let me simplify a bit:

  • PerTronix-I = 12v to module, and resistance to coil.
  • PerTronix-II and III = 12v to module, and NO resistance to coil.
Module: What this means is that ALL module versions should have full battery voltage with NO resistance.

Coil: P-I keeps the PINK resistance wire to coil, and both P-II and P-III bypass the PINK resistor wire to the coil.

You must use the coil spec's listed for your module version for best performance.

How you do all that is part of the argument of wiring preferences. You can see how there is confusion, as some folks say to wire the module to the coil power, which is fine for P-II and P-III as the coil resistor is bypassed, but NOT the P-I. Nowhere in the instructions for the P-I is it acceptable to run to the coil for power when using the resistor, yet some folks do it that way anyway and it usually works. For a while. Then they complain that the P-I is having issues and is not reliable. Gosh. I wonder why. ;)

Fortunately for you and your P-II, you just need to run non-resisted full battery voltage to both the module and coil to drive happy. The BROWN wire that splits-off of the coil power wire and runs to the starter relay "I" terminal is irrelevant to your installation as MBalcom indicated. Bypass the PINK wire however you like to get full 12V to the module and coil. BTW - that RED wire to the coil should actually be RED with a GREEN trace in a stock wiring harness.

David
 

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Let me Clarify this once again, as we answered this exact question not 2 weeks ago accompanied by this very photograph.

Pertronix RED WIRE GETS 12 VOLTS

EACH COIL has a different demand, ALL FOMOCO Stock Coils, and 90% of PERTRONIX Flame Thrower Coils, need BALLAST resistance feeding the coil. In ALL UNMODIFIED Fords of the 60's and 70's the Red Wire going to the Coil is the CORRECT Resistance wire necessary to run ANY COIL that requires a Ballast Resistor.

The Black wire from the Pertronix unit ALWAYS goes to the Coil -, and the Red wire get's 12V from a SEPARATE KEYED SOURCE. The Ignition Coil needs to be fed as per it's manufacturers instructions. Every Blaster I Blaster II and Blaster III coils I have come across have ALL required the use of a Ballast resistor, whic in THIS case is the FOMOCO STOCK unmolested Red wire with green stripe (black stripe in the 60-63 Falcons) going to the Coil +.


PSIG may have said what I just said, or he may not have, I was doing something else when I saw this thread again and decided to put in my two cents regardless :)
 
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