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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced the 1 pc rear main seal on my 351 windsor about 6 months ago and it didn't stop the oil drips. I noticed that when I replaced it the rear main cap kind of distorts the seal when torqued down. Instead of being perfectly round it looks like it bends it just slightly oblong. Any ideas how to cure this or if I live with it could the light dripping cause bigger problems? thanks.
 

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Never done it installing the seal first and then the cap. Always pried out the old one and knocked the new one in from behind. You might try it that way as I have never had one leak doing that method, just be careful not to scratch the crank.
 

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Normally 1 piece seals are driven into place from the rear while the main cap (and oil pan) are installed.

Go to NAPA and get their teflon type 1 piece seal (I had to order one.) It includes an installation sleeve to help install the sealing lips over the crank. The teflon seal is to be installed dry-it has a special protectant that will migrate onto the crank snout. That means to clean the crank snout of all oil an do not use any lube.

Drive the seal in straight using a large socket, or a piece of PVC pipe that fits the diameter of the seal. Make sure it is installed straight. Reinstall the tranny and you should be good to go.
 

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Some ream main caps have a little pin installed where the gasket is installed. This pin is for a rope seal gasket and needs to be removed if using a rubber seal.

If you have this pin installed, no question about what your problem is. Make sure you seal the hole after you pull the pin out.
 

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On 2006-07-05 05:47, Mikes66 wrote:
Some ream main caps have a little pin installed where the gasket is installed. This pin is for a rope seal gasket and needs to be removed if using a rubber seal.

If you have this pin installed, no question about what your problem is. Make sure you seal the hole after you pull the pin out.
This is true for 2-piece seals in older engines that can only be installed by removing the main cap. These guys are working on newer engines that have a ONE piece seal that is installed from behind the engine.
 

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Are the flexplate bolt holes drilled all the way through the crank flange? If so, they need sealant to prevent leaks.

What are you using to drive the new seal in with?

I use a soft brass drift and walk it in evenly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've only changed the 1 pc seal once. I took the rear cap off to make access taking the original seal out easier. No pins. If I remember correctly I think the seal was about 5 inch in diameter or so. Does installing the rear main seal with the rear cap already on make that much of a difference? If it is, maybe.....

I already check the flywheel bolt holes and they dead end in the crank. Thanks.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: GMH351 on 7/7/06 7:16am ]</font>
 

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It would be much easier to warp the seal if you put it in place and then put the cap on - I'd say that could be a culprit, because you end up with a ton of force on the seal on the cap end, and not much on the block side.

That sounds very possible. Anybody else think so?
 

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I am presently doing a install on a 1968 289 it has a two piece seal . I'm doing it with the motor in. The seals I have, have tabs. Do I trim those off? Especially the top one, to be able to slide it in with the crank on.

Mike
 
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