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Trying to totally dial in my 200 IC and found out something. The fresh rebuilt carb helped a lot of idle issues, but even being retimed was a little rough. I had put a igniter in it a month ago. We randomly checked the volt going to it and it was 6.3. The book that came with it says should be 9-12 volts. We put a jump wire on it and smoothed out like butter. So going to pull voltage from somewhere tomorrow to give it what it wants. Anyone else have this issue with igniters? We kinda stumbled on it
 

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You found the most common issue with installing the PerTronix. The instructions show to power the unit with full voltage (instructions Figure 3), but most folks don't realize the pink wire to the coil in Fords is a ballast resistor. So most folks just wire it up with the red wire on the coil as you did. Unfortunately, some internet sources say that's fine. It's not.

While it works sometimes (marginally), the low voltage causes poor operation, and if the voltage is low enough, it will cut-out completely. The low voltage will also cause incomplete power switching, which causes heat, and then results in a module overheat failure. This is not a module failure by design, but rather by improper installation. Moral of the story: Always power electronic ignition modules with full battery voltage - not coil power.

The easiest way to do this is to run a separate new wire from the key switch before the pink resistance wire section (ballast resistor) under the dash to the module, leaving the original coil wire just powering the coil. Other convenient sources can work also, using fused circuits that are only hot when in RUN - such as the wiper motor circuit. This will source full battery voltage for the module. The module alone uses very little power, so fuse or wiring upgrades are not generally necessary.

David

 

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Not to be argumentative but the wiper motor wire may not be the best source of power, I am thinking of when in the "start" mode, as most cars shut off most ancillary devices when in "start". Just a thought.
 

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I didn't catch that one. I guess while the wipers are working overtime in a blinding snow storm, there will still be enough electricity to actually power up the module.

The module should be powered from a BAT sourced fused relay circuit and not run that voltage through an antique IGN SW (IMO).
 

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Antique? A switch is a switch. It connects or disconnects a circuit. Do like David posted or run it off the same terminal as the resistor wire.
 

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I didn't catch that one. I guess while the wipers are working overtime in a blinding snow storm, there will still be enough electricity to actually power up the module.

Iam just trying to prevent the next question, My car wont start until i "release" the key to the run position." All cars I've paid any mind to the wipers quit wiping when you go to start mode, I dont know if its caused by having the power to the circuit cut while cranking, or due to the current needed to run the starter motor.....
 

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Antique? A switch is a switch. It connects or disconnects a circuit. Do like David posted or run it off the same terminal as the resistor wire.
:confused:

Uh...

1) A switch is like any other electrical component in that it produces more resistance to current flow with age...

2) The original switch was designed for much less AMP than modern switches...

3) Resistance to current flow produces heat which can affect components or even cause a vehicle fire.

Do you see the correlation here? It is much akin to choosing the correct wire gauge to power a circuit.

Of course if it is greased properly, it should carry the additional current... :frown:

I am starting to be more frightened easily again...
 

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I am just trying to prevent the next question,
Now you know F, mumbles and the rest of the Unusual Suspects will question and cat call any reasonable suggestion here.

Why do you bother? Why do I?

And you are correct in your analogy. It is common knowledge/practice not to power either an IGN, ELECT Fuel Pump or ELECT CHOKE off of an existing accessory circuit.

Now I need to take a few more days away from here as the last sabbatical did me good. I am beginning to cringe again at some of these posts.
 

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You're right MOF2U, the circuit needs to be hot in both RUN and START. Powering just the module through a relay is not necessary, unless also bypassing the resistor for direct power for the coil - which the OP is not doing. The module alone draws very little power and can be parasitic to most any circuit.

David
 

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Powering just the module through a relay is not necessary, unless also bypassing the resistor for direct power for the coil - which the OP is not doing. The module alone draws very little power and can be parasitic to most any circuit.

David
You forgot to add (IMO).
 

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:confused:

Uh...

1) A switch is like any other electrical component in that it produces more resistance to current flow with age...

2) The original switch was designed for much less AMP than modern switches...

3) Resistance to current flow produces heat which can affect components or even cause a vehicle fire.

Do you see the correlation here? It is much akin to choosing the correct wire gauge to power a circuit.

Of course if it is greased properly, it should carry the additional current... :frown:

I am starting to be more frightened easily again...
RUN THE WIRE OFF THE SAME PIGTAILED WIRE UNDER THE DASH THAT FEEDS THE RESISTOR WIRE. Amps be damned.

Don't talk about switches here, the IGNITION switch is the ONLY switch in question. I don't have time to go bold for definition so I am capping but not yelling....

Simply UNPLUG the pink resistor wire behind the ignition switch and plug in your new wire in it's place and problem solved.
 

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Get rid of the resistor all together. Mine has two wires, red and black. They run directly to the positive and negitive side of the coil. I also have a black and green wire from the ignition switch to the coil. That's it. It's been wired this way since new has been working great for years. I've run all three Pertronix systems (I, II & III) this way and have never had a failure, just upgraded over time.

John
 

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Get rid of the resistor all together.

Mine has two wires, red and black. They run directly to the positive and negitive side of the coil. I also have a black and green wire from the ignition switch to the coil. That's it. It's been wired this way since new has been working great for years. I've run all three Pertronix systems (I, II & III) this way and have never had a failure, just upgraded over time.

John
There you go. You heard it here first folks... :)
 

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You forgot to add (IMO).
What's your point? Here we go again with thread-jacking just to argue, rahter than disussion to learn something useful. Since you did not support your "opinion" with an explanation and I already did by stating the parameters, I will further biatch-slap you for your bad argumentative attitude.

Note I said "if powering the module only", which is exactly what the OP is doing, and that the module alone "draws very little power" as the coil is being powered separately through the resistor. I have already done the homework, testing on my own units, and the math. I make my statement due to the fact the module draws less power than a standard Bosch-style automotive relay.

So, I ask you - if it takes more power to trip a relay than it does to power just the module, why would you want to use a relay? In my humble opinion you wouldn't, but I guess I'm being silly here. Please explain your answer fully so everyone - including myself - can understand.

David

PS: I offer my explanation for the benefit of the OP. I will not do your homework or calculations for you. If you want to know, go figure it out or offer a differing viewpoint with some reasoning so we can all learn something. I've offered mine, now quit being a troll and offer yours. Given your history, I do not expect you to offer any useful discussion in reply. But, hey, you could surprise me.
 

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Get rid of the resistor all together. Mine has two wires, red and black. They run directly to the positive and negitive side of the coil. I also have a black and green wire from the ignition switch to the coil. That's it. It's been wired this way since new has been working great for years. I've run all three Pertronix systems (I, II & III) this way and have never had a failure, just upgraded over time.

John
John, direct power (no resistor) is correct for wiring a P-II or P-III, but not the P-I the OP is using. The II and III use coil dwell control to limit the coil saturation time to the right amount for maximum spark energy, but simultaneously limits total current which protects the coil from overheating if you leave the key on without starting or leave it on after an engine stall.

The P-I does not have this feature (acting like points), and with a stock coil the current is not limited and can burn it up. That's the purpose of the factory resistor. That's also why the instruction say to use the resistor with a P-I if your system has one. Many (like you) never had an issue as they never left the key on when not running long enough to have coil failure. Many who did have a coil failure did not know the reason, so just replaced the coil and moved-on. FWIW

David
 

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I will further biatch-slap you for your bad argumentative attitude.
Here we go again with the physical threats. Seems the only way you and others here can debate is by trying to intimidate the other.
 

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Physical threats? Come ON kultulz, saying you're going to bitch slap someone isn't a physical threat unless you actually KNOW where that person lives. My address is up here on FM and has been for 2 years. There are THOUSANDS of people that "should" have come over and bitch slapped me but none of them have... {yaaay with relief}

Not saying that you do or don't deserve it, but you DO occasionally make meaningless jabs at psig, kind of like danh does to you. You two give a LOT to this site, so stop bickering and poking at each other! I grew up, so you two should have to for the most part, also.
 

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Simply UNPLUG the pink resistor wire behind the ignition switch and plug in your new wire in it's place and problem solved.
I think that's the best way because it IS the best way. Just like 65lover said, I just don't remove teh resistor I simply unplug it and run the new feed off the pigtail next to the pink all the way to the coil.

Problem solved, no need to bitch at each other, no need to talk about switches going bad or getting overloaded because that wire is ONLY for the coil.
 

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Here we go again with the physical threats. Seems the only way you and others here can debate is by trying to intimidate the other.
Don't be a child. There was no physical threat (and I have never made one). My slap was in the text following that statement. Yeah, no surprise. Back to your regularly scheduled programming everyone. Move along - nothing to see here.

To the OP - sorry about the detour. I hope we have provided something useful to add to your troubleshooting discovery.

David
 

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Don't be a child.
Sometimes one has to lower himself to that level to communicate with a child.

To the OP - sorry about the detour. I hope we have provided something useful to add to your troubleshooting discovery.

David
Especially wiring it into the wiper circuit and the not needing of no-stinkin' resistors.

Absolutely Fascinating....

:confused:

Should he grease the drive belts for less parasitic drag while he is there?
 
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