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After separating a motor mount again I knew I needed something stronger than stock motor mounts. I didn't want the harshness of solid motor mounts on a street driven car the vibration from the engine will eventuality take its toll on other parts. This modification not only keeps the motor mounts in one piece, it will also put more torque to the driveshaft by eliminating the flex in the OEM mount that is lifting the engine when it is rev. It will make a more responsive drivetrain that will responds crisper to throttle response. You also gain less wheel hop, not to mention less chances of the headers hitting the shock towers due to the engine twisting. With this modification I can now have almost the smoothness of rubber mounts and the strength of solid. I can feel a very slight vibration with the mounts being pinned, but it is not enough to be concern it is something that was expected.

New Motor Mounts


__________________________________________________
Step #1
Drill 2- 25/64" holes in each mount.



__________________________________________________
Step #2
Counter sink the holes.



__________________________________________________
Step #3
Use 3/8"x 1 3/4" Stainless
Flat Head Cap Bolts.



__________________________________________________
Step #4
Using Loctite, tighten nut until the bolt
starts to spin, plus an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn.



__________________________________________________
Step #5
Grind the bolt head flush with the mount,
then paint mount to deter rust.



Now you have a motor mount that is solid without the vibration.


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After separating a motor mount again I knew I needed something stronger than stock motor mounts. I didn't want the harshness of solid motor mounts on a street driven car the vibration from the engine will eventuality take its toll on other parts. This modification not only keeps the motor mounts in one piece, it will also put more torque to the driveshaft by eliminating the flex in the OEM mount that is lifting the engine when it is rev. It will make a more responsive drivetrain that will responds crisper to throttle response. You also gain less wheel hop, not to mention less chances of the headers hitting the shock towers due to the engine twisting. With this modification I can now have almost the smoothness of rubber mounts and the strength of solid. I can feel a very slight vibration with the mounts being pinned, but it is not enough to be concern it is something that was expected.

New Motor Mounts

__
Step #1
Drill 2- 25/64" holes in each mount.


__
Step #2
Counter sink the holes.


__
Step #3
Use 3/8"x 1 3/4" Stainless
Flat Head Cap Bolts.


__
Step #4
Using Loctite, tighten nut until the bolt
starts to spin, plus an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn.


__
Step #5
Grind the bolt head flush with the mount,
then paint mount to deter rust.


Now you have a motor mount that is solid without the vibration.


.
I ended up here following links. Is this a stock ‘65 motor mount being retrofitted to a ‘66 frame mount bracket? Or the other way around?

I’m having a shorty header fitment issue where my stock ‘65 289 seems like after the ‘66 mount and frame mount bracket swap that it’s either too high or low (assuming there’s a narrowing in the shock tower? I’m not sure because it was an after thought) or that my engine is too far forward? IfThat’s possible? I’m hitting the shock tower on the passenger side on the firing order number 3 tube.

Super frustrated and stumped today.
 
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