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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, i dont get to drive the ranchero much...And it looking like im heading down the weight savings road lately...Is the weight savings worth the loss of applied braking force? Ive driven a few manual brake vehicles, but, they were about 1000 lbs lighter than my ranchero. Does anyone have a recomendation on the topic? A recomendation on a good manual master cylinder? Or is this whole idea rediculous?
 

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With zero information on your car and what it's intended purpose is it's hard to make a call on this. My '65 Falcon has manual brakes but they're four wheel discs and the car only weighs 3050 lbs. It stops fine, even at 104+ mph. It's not a strip car but has made some passes.

More info please.

John
 

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If it already has power brakes I wouldn't change it just for a little weight savings especially if it's a street car. IMHO
 

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If it already has power brakes I wouldn't change it just for a little weight savings especially if it's a street car. IMHO
+1. I prefer manual brakes myself, but I agree - for the time, money and trouble, I'd stay with whatever is stock.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1975 ford ranchero, 400, all aluminum goodies (including heads) original front disc, drum rear, about 3750 lbs after the bumper tuck/ aluminum goodies

I agree with the other guys as well, that it may be too involved to be worth the effort of a couple lbs, but at the same time, if i can research a little and just find a bolt on master cylinder and prop valve, then i have the spare time, tools and know how to do it with little effort...Just dont know if i wanna...What booster weigh? 10-15 lbs? I drive it on the street mostly, but im moving this month, and will be 10 minutes drive from PIR near maple valley wa (formerly SIR) and have always wanted to do some racing, either for fun, or a local series just cause...but, as of now, mostly street driving...


[/QUOTE]what it's intended purpose is it's hard to make a call on this.

More info please.

John[/QUOTE]
 

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... I agree with the other guys as well, that it may be too involved to be worth the effort of a couple lbs, but at the same time, if i can research a little and just find a bolt on master cylinder and prop valve, ...
No - it's more than a MC and PV - the reason you can stop with manual brakes is the pedal is different and uses a much larger ratio for leverage. Just going to a manual MC will just give you the same brakes you have now with a non-functional booster. :eek: So, you must also change the pedal ratio, and unless you're doing a fab job on your existing parts, you need to replace the pedal, push rod, and usually the pedal hangar for the MB versions - if you can even get them. Some pedal assemblies can be modified quite easily to convert from MB to PB or PB to MB, but you'd better check before assuming anything.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No - it's more than a MC and PV - the reason you can stop with manual brakes is the pedal is different and uses a much larger ratio for leverage. Just going to a manual MC will just give you the same brakes you have now with a non-functional booster. :eek: So, you must also change the pedal ratio, and unless you're doing a fab job on your existing parts, you need to replace the pedal, push rod, and usually the pedal hangar for the MB versions - if you can even get them. Some pedal assemblies can be modified quite easily to convert from MB to PB or PB to MB, but you'd better check before assuming anything.

David
Good to known, sounds like its probably not worth the trouble. Thanks guys!
 
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