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Discussion Starter #1
OK... I made the power steering hose that I talked about awhile back here. Here's what I did:

1. I used -6AN Male to 3/8" tube fittings (they worked perfectly).

2. I made up a hose using -6AN Female to -6AN hose fittings.

3. The hose is Earl's line (1500 psi rated).

I added power steering fluid, started it up, and tried to turn the wheels back and forth to get the air out, but they would barely move. I jacked the front end up and easily took the steering from lock to lock a few times. No leaks, no lines blown off or bulging.

But... when I drive it, the power steering only works when the RPMs are up. At idle, it's like I don't have any power steering and it gets easier to turn as the RPMs go up to 3000.

The hose is the same length. -6AN hose is about 3/8" ID (the same as the hose that was on there. So what gives? I'm really stumped now... I was worried about leaks or a line blowing off, but all that stuff is perfect!

Did the pump go bad "just like that"? It never ran without fluid in it... are the symptoms I described pointing to a bad pump. I don't think I've ever had a pump go out, so I don't know if it would work at higher RPMs and not at lower RPMs.

Thanks for any help!


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 89Trooper on 1/19/06 12:04am ]</font>
 

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The pump could have cavitated possibly - if the lines sucked it all out of the pump before it could return to the pump... but that sounds unlikely. You probably have air in it still I would imagine - at higher RPM you generate enough pressure to compress the air and move the wheels. I think if the pump went bad it wouldn't work at all.

Might be wrong though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's what I was thinking, too... Also, if a line was blocked for some reason it wouldn't work at all. But I'm 99% sure the lines I made aren't blocked. Any tips for getting air out... other than turning the wheels from lock to lock several times?
 

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Do any of the various fittings you used have a smaller ID than the original hose ends?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm using the original ends that go into the pump and into the rack (these are what I swage-locked the tube-to-AN fittings to).

So, the tube-to-AN fittings go over the tube, so they aren't smaller. These fittings would have an ID of 3/8". The actual ID of the 3/8" tube is about .285".

The hose ends do go into the hose, so they would be a tiny bit smaller than the ID of the hose.

However, inside the original hose was a metal tube with an inner ID of less than 1/4"... about .225"... the whole length of the original hose.

So, if anything, I have an overall larger ID than the original hose. From .225" to about .343" (the actual ID of the -6AN line).

I really can't believe any of this makes a difference... it's so miniscule. If I went to a 1" ID or a .10" ID then I would expect problems.

Now I wish it ran right and leaked slightly (my original concern).

After (click for bigger pic):


Original hose with inner .225" sleeve:



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 89Trooper on 1/18/06 9:13am ]</font>
 

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I would loosen one of the fittings, to create a small leak, and turn the wheels back and forth to get all the air out of the lines.
Every PS pump that I've seen go bad made a whinning sound when you turned the wheels regardless of fluid level.
I would try and get any air out of the system first, like I mentioned, and then go from there.
BTW, I like the way it looks with the braided hose though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Will try that... hate to loosen the fittings though, because I used thread sealer (only on the threads not on the sealing surfaces) to prevent the fittings from coming loose from vibration... and would hate to break the seal.

Will air eventually come out from normal driving?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I talked to one of my buddies that works at a Dodge dealership and he said that even though I'm only going from the old .225" ID to the current .343" ID it's a big amount. (I did the math and it is actually a 52% increase in ID!) Anyway, he said it needs that restriction to up the pressure at idle. (Plus, looking at it, that inner sleeve is not smooth like the inside of the hose, so it causes even more restriction.)

So... I was able to pull out that inner sleeve from the old hose and I'm now taking apart my new hose to slide it in. I tried it on a spare piece and it actually slides right in like it was made for it! Something going my way for a change??

I'll give an update when I'm done...


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 89Trooper on 1/19/06 12:09am ]</font>
 

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thats what I was thinking the new hose was to big inside. that would give you a drop in prusher.
tim
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I started it up and not that much difference. I really thought that was the problem. It is better, but not like it was with the old hose.

So, now the new hose is the same length and has the same ID as the old hose. I even inspected the end of the old hose to see if there was an even greater restriction, but there wasn't... just that sleeve all the way through.

Guess I could get a smaller PS pulley if there is one available.
 

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Guess I could get a smaller PS pulley if there is one available.
That's an idea! Get a smaller diameter pulley to increase it's rpms at lower engine speeds. But, on second though, you might have too much pressure at higher rpms then.
Hmmm....I don't know...drive it awhile and see if it improves after a few miles of driving(intown).
Either that or maybe you PS pump took a dump sometime during this mod of yours....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
82GT - It's an Auto Zone life time warranty PS pump. Never gave me any trouble before, but it's worth a shot... I'll just take it off and trade it for a new one. (After awhile, that is.)

Motorhead - Old hose is destroyed! *L* It looked/worked fine, it was just that the one end was hose clamped over a crimped on ferrule. I just wanted to do it "right". Now I wish I left it alone!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
82GT - Also, it has underdriven pullies on it anyway, so the pump is already running slower than it should (but it was never a problem before). I might put the stock crank pulley back on... it's bigger so it will turn the accessories faster.
 

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Could you restrict the return line or place a fitting in line with a smaller drilled orifice. Its not supposed to but is the pressure line expanding reducing pressure? Not that it helps, but I have the opposite problem. I can take my steering wheel at an idle and just spin it and it will turn till it hits the stops, and that is with the old school ram assist setup! Its actually kind of scary at times so I am going to try and do what you did, but on purpose

Good luck
 

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Still sounds like air in the system.
Yes, mathematically it's an inverse square, so
going from the factory ID to your new ID is
a big jump, but not that big for a hydraulic
system. At better than 800 psi, the volume
difference shouldn't be enough between the
two hoses to cause an issue. What you have
should still operate pretty much as stock.
Overnight usually will allow all the air to
work its way out of the system. I've had
some systems only work the bubbles out
after 2-3 laps on the track. They can be
quite a pain!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Was told it might be the pressure relief valve in the pump sticking open so it doesn't bring up the pressure at lower RPMs.
 
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