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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm building this engine for my 68 fairlane. Pictures shortly ....

I just got the Block back from R&R performance in spring lake park mn.
they suck ballz and I will never go back there again ...long story ..

Block Mirror 105 block

Bored 30 over with torque plates
line honed
decked for zero
frost plugs and cam berings installed
oil mods done , added thread in plugs
cost $800 they included arp bolts witch he needed for the line hone

I got the block and cleaned up the casting flash and rewashed the block and painted it duplicolor gloss black

Crank is a scat 4.125 fully ballance
rod's are scat I beam 6.700 chevy rods.
pistons are mahle 10.8:1 coated flat tops
arp bolts to keep her together
Bearings are all king racing bearings

Camshaft is a comp cam's solid fb-294s-10 294/294, Lift .605/.605
lifters that came with kit

oil pan is a mildon 7qt pan with the required pickup

oil pump is a hv57 melling and a aftermarket pump rod

timming chain a double roller from Milodon 15007

heads are 60069 edelbrock rpm series

intake is a edelbrock rpm intake

carb is a 750 holley vacume
 

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I'm building this engine for my 68 fairlane. Pictures shortly ....

I just got the Block back from R&R performance in spring lake park mn.
They did a realy nice job on it.

Block Mirror 105 block

Bored 30 over with torque plates
line honed
decked for zero
frost plugs and cam berings installed
oil mods done , added thread in plugs
cost $800 they included arp bolts witch he needed for the line hone

I got the block and cleaned up the casting flash and rewashed the block and painted it duplicolor gloss black

Crank is a scat 4.125 fully ballance
rod's are scat I beam 6.700 chevy rods.
pistons are mahle 10.8:1 coated flat tops
arp bolts to keep her together
Bearings are all king racing bearings

Camshaft is a comp cam's solid fb-294s-10 294/294, Lift .605/.605
lifters that came with kit

oil pan is a mildon 7qt pan with the required pickup

oil pump is a hv57 melling and a aftermarket pump rod

timming chain a double roller from Milodon 15007

heads are 60069 edelbrock rpm series

intake is a edelbrock rpm intake

carb is a 750 holley vacume
Sounds great, but 4.125 stroke is a 434 cid, sure you dont have a 4.25 stroke crank?

Either way, nice combo, it'll run well and be happy on pump gas
 

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Discussion Starter #3
4.250 sorry .


question.. does scat genarac ballance the assembly? are they just ballancing the crank ? my rods are all in sealed bags ect so how can they match them ? are they just going off the manufactures weights and thats good enuf?

thanks .....
 

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I have never seen a balanced crank from SCAT or Eagle, will you have a 428 flywheel? They may be close with the right combination, but I would balance your parts
 

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Discussion Starter #6
R code I cant answer that yet .... I have some parts to go yet ...

I have $3,437 into the short block right now ....
less ballancer,fuel pump thats parts ,block and labor ...

my427:

I had it all ballanced by them already. Im wondering how they do it being the rods are all in sealed bags from the factory yet ..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm planning on starting to put it together this weekend . I just got the shop detailed cleaned and my order came in for all the tools I need to assemble it.

I got a ring compressor,ring installer,rod bolt covers,royal purple tuff stuff lube,comp cams lube,black rtv and a few cans of brake clean and a bag of lint free towels ...that should get me started :) I will snap a bunch of pictures ... everyone likes pictures ....
 

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R code I cant answer that yet .... I have some parts to go yet ...

I have $3,437 into the short block right now ....
less ballancer,fuel pump thats parts ,block and labor ...

my427:

I had it all ballanced by them already. Im wondering how they do it being the rods are all in sealed bags from the factory yet ..
They cannot ballance the short assy without the rods and pistons in the machine. The crank can be welded steal or drilled away on the counter balancers to ballance that. Shop I goto has the whole short block in his machine , pulls the handle and pistons fly, scary to me. There is a light on the fly wheel like a timing light. As he turns rpms up he then stops, adds silly puddy to spot where light was and turns rpms again. In the end he can place a glass of water full in a cup and spins it again. Water never even makes a shiver.

My engine he heated 3 sets of rods till they turnned white. Allow them to cool to 70 degrees and placed them in oil. Heated them all again to set the temper again I guess but has to heat them twice. Then mikes them all to get a matched set. He has weighed them all the same. Each piston he works them to weigh the same as well. He did all this before he placed the short block together then ballanced the short block. I may not have what I typed correct stated but you get the picture.

I hate to see you spend that much money when you can get a complete engine for half of what you will spend.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
where is this engine I can buy for less ? Ive looked around and there not cheap. 9-13 grand...... I should be in the 7 grand range when done. I also dont like buying a engine from the internet. who knows what your getting... when I do it myself I can be as picky as I want and build it within my budget.
 

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where is this engine I can buy for less ? Ive looked around and there not cheap. 9-13 grand...... I should be in the 7 grand range when done. I also dont like buying a engine from the internet. who knows what your getting... when I do it myself I can be as picky as I want and build it within my budget.
Not trying to sell you a engine but this is a 390 stroker, 60 over, 1964 427 crank, 427 rods, new intake. It should run with a 428 cj. I gave 1000 for it. I got it sold for 2680 and still at that price it is a steal. I would even bet when you finish your engine it will run right beside it.
 

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here is the sheet they sent ....


Not saying you got a bad deal by no means. Be prould of what you have. You are correct in saying you build it you know what you have. You will like it better as well and have fun building it. Just stating for your money there is alot of engines people at speed shops will let go for they are having a bad time right now in this ecomony and deals are there. Just gota be careful in looking and know what you are buying is all. What you are building is very good. Keep going. I just buy and resell is all and deals I have and can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
427

I get what your saying ,But here in mlps there are no built 390's floating around. I looked (alot) and I dont know of any strokers at all. maybe I'm blind,but I did reseach. I have always wanted a nice 500hp motor. I have built a few engines in stock/slightly more hp setups. The car its going in is 100% redone by me,so rebuiding the motor myself will follow suit. I went stroker because the 500hp is tame mannered and street worthy. I want to be able to cruise it and still make me smile when i mash the gas.. plus I dont have 5-6-7-g to plop down on motor. I save for a bit and buy parts as I get the change....

hopefully you guys can help me along when I need some help. I dont know every thing and I'm learning some things as I go.


Thanks.....
 

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Your numbers look good. That is normal looking bobweight and shows you have decent stuff.

As far as your question, all my SCAT stuff has been within a 1/2 gram out of the package, so my guess is they just used a standard weight for the rods.

I wouldn't sweat it at the RPM you are running, although it technically is cheating a little by not taking the time to match the components.

You did well, that motor will do well. You will love it

As far as balancing with the pistons on, I have never seen it. We've balanced a ton of engines over the years and never used a rod and piston on the crank

You match all the components, then get all the individual weights and come up with a bobweight, then bolt the bobweight on and spin it.
 

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I understand. Most time to get what I want I gota save or buy alittle at a time, most of us do. I got a man coming to buy the 390 engine right now.

As far as a ballanced engine I will never run another motor and turn it as I do without the compleate short block ballanced. I have had many fes just thrown together and ran well but that is the life of any engine how well it is ballanced. If you donot plan on tunning it hard maybe ok depends how ya drive it. Every engine in my cars each piston weighs the same, all rods heated for temper , weighs the same , crank ballanced , put together and all short block ballanced close to zero as possible. Defer is I turn mine 10,000 and get MNAY runs out of it. If not ballanced that way it will not live long in my car. Any good speed shop has the machine to place any engine in to do this. You can see the pistons running as if they were in a car. Looks scary to me as I stand back as it starts to trimble . Pull the handle adding more rpms it would come apart .They use silly puddy , small ball stuck on flywheel and move it as I said like a line on timing mark. After done you can pull the handle again 8000 rpms in the machine and she stays steady. Move the puddy one inch as engine goes haywire again shaking itself to death. The engine in my mach 1 never moves when you push gas pedal, ballanced at zero and it has so many runs I cannot even count. All I did was check the main bearings, looked good so it has out lasted past motors 10 times the runs.

Take a apple and push a nail close to the center and spin it , it will wobble. The closer to the center you run the nail the faster and more ballanced the apple will spin. You could spin it many times at slow speed before it starts to wobble , faster you spin it will come apart. Same as an engine. The more all works together the harder it will turn and live longer. Depends on how heavy your foot is.
I will get a vid on next engine running 10 grand in this machine to show you. You spadder say 10 engines you will get tired of it as I have, cost to much not to and in long run it is best money spent. There is a difference between a shop building a engine and a speed shop building one. Just trying to help ya
 

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I understand. Most time to get what I want I gota save or buy alittle at a time, most of us do. I got a man coming to buy the 390 engine right now.

As far as a ballanced engine I will never run another motor and turn it as I do without the compleate short block ballanced. I have had many fes just thrown together and ran well but that is the life of any engine how well it is ballanced. If you donot plan on tunning it hard maybe ok depends how ya drive it. Every engine in my cars each piston weighs the same, all rods heated for temper , weighs the same , crank ballanced , put together and all short block ballanced close to zero as possible. Defer is I turn mine 10,000 and get MNAY runs out of it. If not ballanced that way it will not live long in my car. Any good speed shop has the machine to place any engine in to do this. You can see the pistons running as if they were in a car. Looks scary to me as I stand back as it starts to trimble . Pull the handle adding more rpms it would come apart .They use silly puddy , small ball stuck on flywheel and move it as I said like a line on timing mark. After done you can pull the handle again 8000 rpms in the machine and she stays steady. Move the puddy one inch as engine goes haywire again shaking itself to death. The engine in my mach 1 never moves when you push gas pedal, ballanced at zero and it has so many runs I cannot even count. All I did was check the main bearings, looked good so it has out lasted past motors 10 times the runs.

Take a apple and push a nail close to the center and spin it , it will wobble. The closer to the center you run the nail the faster and more ballanced the apple will spin. You could spin it many times at slow speed before it starts to wobble , faster you spin it will come apart. Same as an engine. The more all works together the harder it will turn and live longer. Depends on how heavy your foot is.
I will get a vid on next engine running 10 grand in this machine to show you. You spadder say 10 engines you will get tired of it as I have, cost to much not to and in long run it is best money spent. There is a difference between a shop building a engine and a speed shop building one. Just trying to help ya
His motor IS balanced. It uses the proper bobweight for the parts, and the individual pieces arent that far off anymore. Every piston i get now, due to CnC machining, is within 1 thou of each other for bore size and weight is almost exact.

His stuff is far better than what we all grew up with. It was just balanced at the crank "factory" AND they provided all the info. He has ZERO to worry about and is doing exactly what you recommend

His stuff is FAR different than an old set of TRWs and stock rods with big balancing pads. These parts are good, and match well, once they spun that crank, they did everything that you recommend.
 

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His motor IS balanced. It uses the proper bobweight for the parts, and the individual pieces arent that far off anymore. Every piston i get now, due to CnC machining, is within 1 thou of each other for bore size and weight is almost exact.

His stuff is far better than what we all grew up with. It was just balanced at the crank "factory" AND they provided all the info. He has ZERO to worry about and is doing exactly what you recommend

His stuff is FAR different than an old set of TRWs and stock rods with big balancing pads. These parts are good, and match well, once they spun that crank, they did everything that you recommend.

Hold on Scooter. I didnot say his parts were bad or even close. Below I stated his stuff was good and keep going as he was. He is not tunning his 10,000 rpms like I do either. I donot run trw, that company has went out of buisness long ago. I run aries pistons and lamons rods or however they are spelled.

The old motors I had built would not take much pounding the way we build them now they do. I run NHRA and have to have every item ounce of speed I can get out of a engine to be competive. Alot I run against have more money than I do and to try to stay out front I have to turn my car more than they have to. Therefor if all is not the best we can do it will fly apart. Even if we run a automatic we use a 8200 stall converter. Take pride in anything you have and it is all good.
 

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Hold on Scooter. I didnot say his parts were bad or even close. Below I stated his stuff was good and keep going as he was. He is not tunning his 10,000 rpms like I do either. I donot run trw, that company has went out of buisness long ago. I run aries pistons and lamons rods or however they are spelled.

The old motors I had built would not take much pounding the way we build them now they do. I run NHRA and have to have every item ounce of speed I can get out of a engine to be competive. Alot I run against have more money than I do and to try to stay out front I have to turn my car more than they have to. Therefor if all is not the best we can do it will fly apart. Even if we run a automatic we use a 8200 stall converter. Take pride in anything you have and it is all good.
Well, first relax Slick, calling me Scooter doesn't make what you said correct

The first issue I have with your last post is you are talking about a simple balancing machine as if his wasn't on one. His rotating assembly WAS balanced and he showed the balance sheet to prove it.

Second, are you saying you run an FE to 10K RPM on Lemans rods? I normally dont ever call someone out, but show me a dyno slip or that movie. I'd like to see your in-block balancer too

Lemans rods are ridiculously heavy, if you are getting 10K, you'd get 11K with a real rod.

I am probably the nicest guy here, but your post still is acting like his motor isn't balanced and it is, whether or not you call me names
 

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Discussion Starter #20
my motor will not see high rpm's . Im thinking a rev limmit of 6,500 max with a soft touch type limmiter. mostly shifting around 5-5500 rpm... Im not drag racing it. only the stop light to stop light once a weekend type thing .... my tires wont hold the hp anyway . there just 15" 8"wide bfg's
 
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