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Well let me start again. First you do seem like a likeable person and I enjoy your post what time I have been here. I as well have gave away more than I should and will continue.
I probably donot know as much about a engine as he does for I build homes for a living and didnot pay as much attention as I should have in building a 427 years ago, all I know is they spattered and got exspinsive. Now they last. We run the rods we do cause nhra will not allow any different . Our crank has been ground out of round , bearings has bolts in them to turn that rpms. I will back up and say 11,000 it will turn. Fe engines were turnning 9500 years ago . Paul Adams turns his over 12 grand build the same as ours in his thunderbolt.
Did not mean to offend you in any way, just trying to help him not spending money he should not of when there is engines out there one can buy , good engines. When I goto the shop all I can do is get a vid of a 427 being ballanced our way. If he or his shop you like the way the assy comes then if it satisfys you then all is good. I have spent a fortune on shops and donot trust many out there.

As far as a dyno you should not trust them either for they can produce whatever the shop running it wants it to produce.
 

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Fair enough

I am glad we aren't going to argue, I hate when two guys get in a battle on the web. In the end, everyone is trying to helpand thats a great thing

Overall, it's super to see 3 guys in one post running FEs and having fun with them
 

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Here is the record holder of Pauls. All is not as it seems no matter what one reads. His car is stated as a thunderbolt. I personally know the car and it is not a true tbolt but a 1964 fairlane made into look as a tbolt. Had to cut the cars top off, add the roll cage and replace the top. I have a vid of Pauls car turnning 12 grand. Now if you wish me to give all the specs on how this record holder allows a 427 to turn 12 grand and Paul knew I stated how he would be mad with me I would think. Alot goes into a 427 turnning that high, nothing back yard simple.

FEATURE- From the Tower by Bob Frey
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I ordered a gram scale .... I want to weight my rods,pistons ect to see if they match the spec sheet scat sent ... just to see .. lol ...
 

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1964 Ford Thunderbolt stick shift record holder - YouTube

All the high rpms is NOT in the bottom end anyway. All of it is in the top part. Paul has over 8 grand in his machine work on these heads in time alone, running them testing, porting again and again. Paul runs B stock, we run H and D stock. Nhra allows Paul to do more to his engines that we are allowed to. We have to run near same as it came factory not allowed to alter much so we play with what we got. 10 grand is nothing to get, keeping it together is . However I dought whoever you see ballances any engine will heat 3 sets of rods twice just to get a match set. Yes those rods are heavy but they are not just dropped into the engine. Side rails are polished, all are idenical . Most bearing one can bend in your hand, ours you cannot. Holds are drilled and bolts added to keep them from spinning. Even our carbs in the bottom are stainless steal so they will not rust. When a car is running right it will produce ice in the carbs, stainless willnot rust.
 

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Scat is fine. We donot run scat though, we run moldex. Just the crank is 3400 alone because it is billit and one piece made.
 

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I ordered a gram scale .... I want to weight my rods,pistons ect to see if they match the spec sheet scat sent ... just to see .. lol ...
While you are doing that get you some emory cloth and go around and around the wrist pins until they drop through the piston with ease onto the ground. Get a drill and at the ring gland put you 2 holes in either side of the piston to allow a much better oil travel. A motor will run better loose than built tight.

Some does not think block fill helps but it does. If you look inside a fe block most of the bottom is rusty anyway , all the water travel is in top of the block. The fill allows a much stronger block and helps keep it together.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
fast forward some .lol... sorry got busy !


got every thing in the bottom end blueprinted and every thing looks great. Happy how it comming out. took all day to do .. crank and cam turn like butter !

 

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Discussion Starter #32
Got held up needing half moon key's/woodruff keys for the crank my old crank had straight keyways. you would think scat would send them with. and Also I need to locate a degree wheel for the cam timing. you got one ? Not a big deal Being I need to pickup my front cover from the sand baster yet ... :)
 

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Got held up needing half moon key's/woodruff keys for the crank my old crank had straight keyways. you would think scat would send them with. and Also I need to locate a degree wheel for the cam timing. you got one ? Not a big deal Being I need to pickup my front cover from the sand baster yet ... :)
They are just Chevy keys, but I agree, why not charge 2 bucks more and throw a couple keys in there LOL

The engine is looking good!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
CHEVY WHAT ? LOL .... you got a link or part number ? or a size .... If not I will have to call scat, I dont see any info from scat that lists the correct #'s ect .. seems silly this is just a unneeded pain ...

thanks .....
 

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They should be 3/16 x 7/8, you need two

I have found that they stick up a little too much, but I just grind or file them. I get them at Napa
 

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Discussion Starter #37
ok working on heads ..... I got new edelbrock 60069 heads and they come with springs. I got the comp cams 284 cam that is .605 lift. edelbrock says the springs are good to .600 .. are you builders buying new springs? or using the stock ones ?

thanks .....
 

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Discussion Starter #38
ok working on heads ..... I got new edelbrock 60069 heads and they come with springs. I got the comp cams 294 cam that is .605 lift. edelbrock says the springs are good to .600 .. are you builders buying new springs? or using the stock ones ?

thanks .....

oh... and do I realy need to not install the inner springs for brake in ?
 

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Nice looking engine.This is an interesting read.I've balanced a lot of crankshafts and never used a machine that slung everything around at 8000rpm and you moved putty around.I'm not standing in that room.Nice to see FEs being built.
 

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ok working on heads ..... I got new edelbrock 60069 heads and they come with springs. I got the comp cams 294 cam that is .605 lift. edelbrock says the springs are good to .600 .. are you builders buying new springs? or using the stock ones ?

thanks .....

oh... and do I really need to not install the inner springs for brake in ?
First question, will the springs work?

If they are Edelbrock 5792, which they should be. They will be 130 on the seat and 340 open at .583 lift. I used .583 becuase I subtracted lash from your 294S. So the lift is right at the edge, but fine

The issue is spring pressure, that is quite a bit more than I like. I'd much prefer someting closer to 120 closed / 300 open, but even if you decide to try it, there is almost no way that will break in without eating the cam.

I have a buddy with a 282S, even less lift, and it just did the same. Just too much spring but I didn't know what he was doing until after the damage was done.

Second question, do you need to pull inners?

That spring shouldn't have an inner, it just has a damper that doesn't affect pressure. You should use different springs for break in, if you choose to try it, you'd better slather it with moly paste (not just the crappy red stuff that comes with the cam) and then hope it lights off and the crank throws oil quick enough. As much as I hate to say, odds are against you without a spring swap

I'd find a good set of dual springs that batch and have the pressure you want, pull the inners, break it in and then put the inners back in.
 
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