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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need help with my procomp 210 cylinderheads. I've already read the complete post that 67stang started back in january. I just recieved mine 2 days ago. these were complete from an ebay store( i know bad move) and proceeded to take them apart to get a better look. 1) do not like the ex valves in that they're not under cut or even a narrow stem to the head. 2) The springs are chevy style single coil w/ damper and adertised for .600 lift . Had my local machine shop check em and he said don't go over .550 with em. besides i'm going with a x303 cam in my 347 and did'nt want valve float at high rpms , so those are out , BUT the real problem i have encountered so far is the spring installed height .The one intake i checked and have not rechecked yet is 1.800 which 1.800 to 1.750 is ok for a ford but on the exhaust side it is 1.650!!! a little to short ,plus the closed seat press has got to be around 200. the springs i'm most likely using is the kmotion k-800 with a seat press of 140 @ 1.800 and 170 @ 1.750. I'm still trying to find ALL the dimentional specs for a sbf rocker stud to valve centerline , port location and how to measure it, anything to do with geometry and point of measure for them , i do know how to set rocker travel up on the valve tip .but that is the last thing till i get the other problems solved. who can i call??? will procomp electronics help me??? i can work thru the small problems but i think procomp is responsible for rectifing the situation !! ANY AND ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!I have a bs in industrial technology and minor in power and transportation, i'm ase cert master tech, and have machine shop exp., so i'll understand almost anything your trying to explain to me ... plus pics or diagrams always help...PPLLEEAASSEE I like the head overall but am trying to aviod trying to return em to get something else!!

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I'M NOT SPEEDING ,I'M QUALIFYING!!!!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: tbirdracecar on 12/2/06 3:02am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: tbirdracecar on 12/6/06 6:47am ]</font>
 

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IF I understand your question correctly, You can use a taller spring retainer and easily gain the .100 or .150 needed. Several different heights to choose from. You could also use a different valve lock but these are generally limited to .050 .
 

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Why would you order those heads if you already knew there were quality issues with them after reading the posts on here?
 

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I had a long reply going but got kicked off

so

give us overall valve lengths and tip lengths

should use +.1 chevy valves (5.07 with .25 tip)

cam lift

- desired spring pressure at close and over the nose.

also coil bind dimesion.

give us free length dimension of springs


you can buy +.05 keepers and retainers

you can setup the springs with about 15% more seat pressure - they will weaken after a bit.

I am working on a set of these right now. there is a guy here on this board that worked thru this allready - bluestreak?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't know until after I already had them. That's why I joined this site, when I get done measuring EVERYTHING, that is, the measurements with their parts on them ,and the parts i have and intended to use , I will fill you all in on what i found also if some one could explain how to load pics on here I will try to include those so you may get a better understanding of what I AM seeing and hopefully get some enlightment. By the way has anyone had further contact with procomp as to what changes have been made , if any? If not , after we all come to concensus of what problems, measurements and solutions there are on these heads ,I 'm going to try to contact the company to get this fixed and put out a full report to at least make these heads usable. definately I would not advise buying them complete from them at all. that was a waste of 200.00 I could have used towards good components.thanks for your comments and light bashings/criticisms. this is definately a learning expierence! Troy
 

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i dont like your chances of getting procomp[aust]to come to the party as far as resolving the issues you have with the heads,my understanding is theyre an import company and have nothing to do with the assembly side of things.
have you contacted the ebay seller you got them off?
 

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Contacting Pro Comp will not be of any benefit as they only sell bare castings. The parts you received were not from them.

The valves, springs, retainers, and locks were installed by a 3rd party, presumably the ebay person that you bought the heads from. Your only recourse is to either contact them and see if they will help or fix what they have done to you.

It sounds like your exhaust valves are standard length Chevy valves. Follow the advice given by Talons and measure the valve lengths (intake and exhaust) and the other information that has asked for. That is the best way that we can help you.

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Dennis

65' STANG, 3160 lbs

393W NA, 2.78 Toploader 4 Spd, 9" 3:70 Posi
Pro Comp Heads, Vic Jr. Intake, 750dp, 236/561 Solid Cam, 9.6CR, 1 3/4" Headers, Lakewood, Subframes, Caltracs



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 12/2/06 7:30am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 12/2/06 7:34am ]</font>
 

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If you use +100" chevy valves, you'll need to use small block chevy rockers. Don't be scared, they'll work fine. If you want to use 1.6 sbf rockers, you'll need +200" chevy valves, or you may very likely have to do some work on the pushrod hole. Using the +200's frees up your installed height, you can then use most any spring you want. Just keep in mind this changes EVERYTHING else too. Longer studs are a good idea, and your pushrods should be measured for new anyhow.

That being said, I'd NEVER buy these heads complete, other than from alexsparts on Ebay, or performance engine machine....they also sell on Ebay. Pacific also sells them complete, but not on Ebay, and their stuff is quality. You have to understand. If you want to become a Pro Comp retailer, all you have to do is MAKE YOUR FIRST ORDER. That means, any retard kid who can dial a phone and use a credit card....can order parts, assemble the heads HOWEVER he wants, and then sell them on Ebay for 799$ 'complete', when he paid less than 160$ per head, and maybe 100-150$ on parts to assemble two heads. This is one of the MAIN reasons these heads get a bad rap. They have quirks, YES. Honestly not many more than a TFS head, or Canfields. Are they top notch quality? Not really. Do they work, and work well when setup properly? Yes, I've seen this repeatedly. We have a guy here in town who sells crate motors, both locally and on ebay. Tuff Dawg Engines I think it is on Ebay. Name's Darl Jeffries, of D&J Machine in Phoenix AZ. He knows the owner of Pro Comp, and uses these heads exclusively on his low and mid budget crate motors. 331ci, 400hp, dyno tested, every time. He scraps (Pro Comp has no return policy that I know of) about 1 head out of 20 for incorrect machinework, and poor quality etc. The others he goes over with a fine tooth comb, and they WORK. This is the difference between a reputable ebay seller, and some jack ass who decided to make a buck reselling in bulk...the reseller will sell you the heads Darl tossed in his scrap heap.

That being said, if you can return those heads and buy a bare set, you'll save some money. If you can't, you may as well scrap just about everything except the casting and start over. The heads will work if you do this. I can almost guarantee they won't, if you don't.

Cris
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well if that is the case , then I'll just work on the measurements, getting pics and hitting you guys back for the solutions . I really, really appreciated the help so far and look forward to picking you brains later. I'll get something back in a few days for you to look at.
HOW DO I POST PICS?DIAGRAMS????
 

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dealers pay 220 per bare head, 99% of the resellers use the cheapest possible stuff to be price competitive, I mean whos gonna pay 900-1000 for a set of pro comps?
 

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What valve cover gaskets work with the Pro Comp heads? I notice the rail nearest the intake is too skinny to work with the stock rubber/steel core 5.0 valve cover gaskets.
 

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On 2006-12-02 18:48, boullestergm wrote:
What valve cover gaskets work with the Pro Comp heads? I notice the rail nearest the intake is too skinny to work with the stock rubber/steel core 5.0 valve cover gaskets.
I couldn't make the rubber/steel gaskets work either.

Now I buy 2 sets of cheap cork and then glue them together. Then I glue them to the valve covers, ensuring that they are best positioned for the rail.

_________________
Dennis

65' STANG, 3160 lbs

393W NA, 2.78 Toploader 4 Spd, 9" 3:70 Posi
Pro Comp Heads, Vic Jr. Intake, 750dp, 236/561 Solid Cam, 9.6CR, 1 3/4" Headers, Lakewood, Subframes, Caltracs



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 12/3/06 8:16pm ]</font>
 

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got my bare pro comps from tri state heads in indiana they look alright to me im going to have the cnc ported maybe but everything looked ok when i got them from tri state cylinder head
 

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My question to all of you is, why would people spend money on junk? That is what they are! Spend a few more bucks and get something that is proven! Trick Flow or AFR???? Those names ring any bells???
 

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oh yeah they do thats why i have money into saving and maybe get a set of rhs or edelbrock vjr but these pro comps i have are ok to use for a daily driver but when the time comes ill have something from the big dogs!
 

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gbbmustang - I bought the Pro Comp 175's for my ol' pickup truck for a couple of reasons.

1. I own a SF300 Flowbench, Sioux valve grinder, and Sioux valve seat grinding setup. Pretty much any flow issues, I knew I'd be able to fix. There were flow issue to address (head whistled due to curved wall diverging too much from the straight wall, creating turbulence), but I was able to pick heads up across the board and peak to peak went from 228 to 254 cfm. Picked up anywhere from 30-40 cfm at all the other lifts and definitely improved the "quality" of the airflow (you can hear when a port is turbulent as well as noticing it on the manometer). It'll work fine for the truck.

2. I got the set for $490 bare/shipped. I already had the valve train that I wanted to use. I tried really hard to pick up a set of used Edelbrocks, or TFS but couldn't get closer than $700. It just came down to how much I wanted to spend on the truck.

These heads are loads better than a set of ported E5 or E7 and work fine if you know what you're doing.

Gerald.
 

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I agree with gerald, the reason is MONEY. If you don´t have forest full of trees growing it.

AFR would 1500 euros here, these were 700 euros, with valves, and the rest of the valvetrain i already have. And work is free if you have time, which I right now happen to have... and making them work is nice challenge..



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Mosse on 12/5/06 7:21am ]</font>
 

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my next set will be rhs iron heads or vic jr's these pro comps i have will do for now ill see what the cnc whittling machine can do for them


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cammerstang65 on 12/4/06 6:21am ]</font>
 

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hello Gerald

I saw the same thing as you...there was so much turblance because of that wall diverging so sharply. I am at 1.12 wide there at the pushrod and the air speed is just a little under what the SSR has. I want to get it a little slower. I can take more off ... but I run the risk of breaking into the push rod hole. I should just let it happen and then sleeve it.

I have surrpased the vic jr flow rates at .6 and .7 lift. My mid lift is a little lacking. I am working on that.

I am going to try 50* seats - not so much for flow - but for better pressure recovery.

I have also added dirctional devises( wings - what ever you want to call them)

I am going to do a mock-up. I might even look at moving the rocker arm stud holes - so I can run a longer pivot distance rocker - I think a pontiac 1.62? is .05 longer than a SBF 1.6 - this should also clear the pushrod hole problem too?

we'll see

Jim

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: TALONS on 12/4/06 8:24pm ]</font>
 

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Talons, you shouldn't have to change the rocker stud holes in order to run the longer pivot rockers if I recall. The holes are already drilled in the 'wrong' place =). We mocked a set up with Chevy 1.6 rockers and they cleared the pushrod holes due to the longer pivot point, while allowing optimum patterning on the valve. If you're determined to run the Pontiac ones, try them first, I think you'll see they'll likely fit.

Cris
 
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