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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a used Performer 289 and a used Performer 600 carb on my 64 Fairlane today. This is the first intake swap I have done in about ten years. First time I fired it up I had a bad intake leak along the whole right bank. The gasket had slipped. It wouldn't idle below 1500 RPM even with the idle backed off all the way.

I redid it with new gaskets and Permatex Copper gasket sealer. The right side slipped again!!!! Not as bad, but if I spray carb cleaner along that edge the idle picks up. I can get it to idle down to 600 RPM now though, but wherever I set the idle, even at 1000 RPM in park, as soon as I put it in gear (automatic) the car dies. Is this due to the intake leak?

How the heck do I keep this gasket from slipping when I redo it again? I was careful as heck and would have sworn it didn't move, but it did.

I bought the carb off Ebay and I guess I will be rebuilding it too. I just cleaned it up with spray carb cleaner and checked the sizes of the jets and metering rods. The accelerator pump does not work though, and the passenger side idle mixture screw has no effect at all. I guess I will have to buy a rebuild kit and dip the carb body and top this time.

Any help wpould be highly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: truedog on 6/25/06 10:00am ]</font>
 

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I use contact cement/glue on the head face and stick the gasket down first.Or you can get a couple long bolts,cut the heads and use as guide studs helps manifold go on square and holds the gasket too,or use both methods.. Only use silicon sealer on the block at the ends as sometimes the rubbers or corks can hold the manifold up off the heads surface slightly..
 

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On 2006-06-24 21:09, gregaust wrote:
I use contact cement/glue on the head face and stick the gasket down first.Or you can get a couple long bolts,cut the heads and use as guide studs helps manifold go on square and holds the gasket too,or use both methods.. Only use silicon sealer on the block at the ends as sometimes the rubbers or corks can hold the manifold up off the heads surface slightly..
I use a tacking adhesive on the lower part of the intake gaskets and I put silicon on the block ends. I also prefer using the studs. They allow you to put the manifold down evenly.

One thing that I have done on difficult installations is that I only lightly tighten the intake bolts down during initial installation (finger tight or so) and then wait overnight to fully torque the manifold to specs. This allows the gaskets to be pressed firmly into place (for better adhesion) and further compresses the silicone without fear of it squishing out on the ends.
 

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Use weatherstrip adheisive on the intake gaskets along with a little silicone around the water jackets and let it setup for about five minutes. The weatherstrip adheisive will glue the gaskets to the head. You may also want to use some long studs to thread into the heads so the intake lines up with the heads when it is set in place. Be sure to torque the intake to specs also.
 

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You said it was a used intake, would it be possible the intake has been machined to use with milled heads or a decked block?
 

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I'd have to agree with an earlier post..... the situation you're
seeing is not a "normal" one in my opinion. I would highly
suspect that the manifold has been machined. It's not
coincidental that the same sealing problem is causing you
to do the job 3 times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The previous owner told me that the manifold was not machined. I can visibly tell that it has slipped down a bit.

Am I correct in assuming that the vacuum leak would cause the car to die when I put it into gear?

Thanks.
 

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Yes, a vacuum leak can cause a car to die when put into gear. You could also suspect the carburetor since it is used and it was just installed.

_________________
Dennis

65' Stang

393W Stroker, Wide Toploader 4 Spd, 9" 3:70 Posi

Victor Jr. Heads, Stealth Intake, 750dp, 236/561 Solid Cam, 9.6CR, 1 3/4" Headers, Lakewood, Subframes, Caltracs



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 6/26/06 2:46am ]</font>
 

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Have you tried switching vacuum line on the ports on the front of the carb? 1 is timed vacuum port and 1 is constant I think. I had mine reversed and after I switched ports it ran better.
 

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I made two "studs" out of allthread from the hardware store and threaded them on each side of the heads to act like a guide for the gaskets. I slide the intake down through the "guides" and then remove them once the intake is in place.
I don't use use the front and rear gaskets for the intake. Instead, I run a 1/4 bead of silicone(RTV black)
 

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Its easy to drop the intake on straighter if you stick a lift plate on it. I also pitch the cork for silicone. I torque at about half, then 3/4, then full torque specs, and go around the order 15 or so times to make sure its worked down nice and tight, then come back and do it the next day again.
 

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On 2006-06-25 16:35, 82GT wrote:
I made two "studs" out of allthread from the hardware store and threaded them on each side of the heads to act like a guide for the gaskets. I slide the intake down through the "guides" and then remove them once the intake is in place.
I don't use use the front and rear gaskets for the intake. Instead, I run a 1/4 bead of silicone(RTV black)
I did something similar, but I used wooden dowels at the corners to guide it on. I also went with the RTV and not the cork end seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I will be redoing it sometuime over the holiday weekend. I have dental surgery tomorrow so it will be a few days before I feel like doing any real work.

I bought some bolts and made guide studs. Also some high-tack gasket adhesive. I think I will let the gaskets sit for several hours before setting the manifold. No cork end gaskets. I think I will buy all new bolts too for more consistant torque. I only went around three times torquing the bolts. I think a couple more passes and let it sit overnight, then re-torque.
 

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If you made yourself guides then you won't need the high-tack since the guides will hold the gaskets in place until the intake is lowered down.
I use only Fel-Pro blue gaskets and with those, you don't need any kind of adhesive. In fact, you're not supposed to use any adhesive with those gaskets.
 

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Some 302s came from the factory with studs in the center 4 holes(two on each side) and I always use them.I don't use the end seals and I alway put some sealer around the end water passages on both sides of the gasket.I put a light coating of grease on the rest of the gasket to help seal and also so the intake won't pull the gasket down as it is torqued...When you torque the intake you will have to go around the bolt sequence several times until the bolts will all stay at the proper torque.I've never had any issues using this method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Third time is a charm! Everything went back together great this last time around. I called Edelbrock and they told me not to use the blue FelPro gaskets. I took them back to Checker and got the FelPro 1250's instead. Used my guide stud to set it down, black RTV at the ends and HighTack gasket adhesive. It sealed up just fine. Also the carb benefitted greatly from the rebuild. The car runs a heck of a lot better now than with the old factory two barrel. No huge performance gains since this is the only engine mod so far, but much smoother. I also wouldn't be surprised to see better gas mileage if I am gentle with the accelerator.
 
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