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Seems like all Ford would be the goal in a #s matching same as stock restoration. Otherwise, I say run what works best and what you can justify buying. Ford Motors is great, but that doesn't mean they have all the great ideas in engineering.

Great write up. Will consider this unit when I need a distributer.
 

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Run what you brung!

Thanks 67stang for the review,I was looking at the 351W version for my car and wondering if it didn't seem hokey,and it looks good! Although,for about $40 more(and a coil) a part like an Accel Street Billet or Mallory 42 Series ready-to-run would definitely look better. All of them have steel gears which is one of my criteria. FDF is absolutely right,buy what you can to go faster! As for the non-Chevy attitude,I gave up the chance to own a muscle car that would probably be worth 100K today for $1500 because it was a Chevy! I did own a '69 Torino Cobra that ran 12.20's so that makes up for it. Almost.
 

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Hi there, I just put this unit in my Cobra II.

It's a 1965 289.

The '77 cobra ignition was ok but I got a deal on the proform for $80 on craigslist, brand new, (only used to check clearance in a '68 Bronco, but it didn't clear the carb.)

However, it did fit the 289 with non-egr edelbrock performer and avenger 570.

I had to drop from 14" to 11" aircleaner though, but thats ok cause the fella also sold me a K&n 11" aircleaner for $10 that was new also.

The proform fired up right away, a little wiggle and it was set.

I notice the car pulls smoother and lights up faster now.

I just put it in about 1 hour ago so I'll have to fiddle with it and check the gear for wear too in a day or two.

if anyone is looking at this, and has a mustang II, the proform works great, the tach works, and I eliminated the ugly old coil and a nest of old temp\oil gauge wires along with the other ignition wires, that were pretty greasy and dangling.

As for chevy product on a ford, I don't mind, it cleaned up my engine bay and weight, it works great and the average human would not notice the difference.

I've got people that think my car is a '67, '73, ect, ect, but its a '77

Also the gas is $1.33 a liter!

I wanna make sure I burn that fuel the best I can so I seen the chance and it worked out.

I've been trying to post here for a few days but my activation screwed up, I was gonna ask what wire to use for my ignition source.

I couldn't wait, so I figured it out after 10-15 trips to the bathroom with my Haynes manual and combing the schematics.

I used the white\light-blue and green\yellow wires off the GREY plug that is before the ignition box.

I just unplugged the grey connector and cut the 2 wires I needed for ignition and tach.

The other end was completely discarded with the un-used endpoints.

Very accurate review, thanks.:)
 

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Hi,

Curious to see how to put a Proform HEI distributor on a 460 engine?

Check:
Installing a HEI distributor on a 460 Ford Engine

Loads of pictures incl. "water neck" and "offset aircleaner" pics AND how to solve clearance issues! :), comment in Dutch...:(



Enjoy,
Gijs Ankoné

Please let me know if you have any remarks or questions, Ok?
 

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What does LP stand for? Low Performance?
If so "yes", the engine's home is an 72 Lincoln Continental Mark IV.
The engine has some minor performance tweaks, like a torqueier cam, exhaust ports ported, flat top pistons, but nothing realy serious.

Check the right column @ Lincoln engine rebuild (460 Ford) & Dutch US Car Meeting pictures. for all 460 engine rebuild pictures.

Hope the pictures are of some help...

Gijs Ankoné
 

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Ooooh now I get it.
LP = liquefied petroleum gas. Yep, I run LPG (what they call it over here) on it.

Reasons:
  • It is so much cheaper (1/3 the price of regular fuel)
  • Large displacement engine's run great if not better on LPG
  • Availabillity, you can buy it everywhere in Holland,
    we even cook on it! ;)
  • I can easily switch back to regular fuel whenever I like.
Gijs Ankoné
 

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Just a follow up, I notice before alot of black soot on the back of my car, after I put in the proform, no more soot.
Better on gas too!
 

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I bought a Mallory HEI distributor for my 351c in my 73 Torino works great and yes it takes some getting used to looking at the GM style cap but it works way better then my Duraspark setup that was causing much grief.
 

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anyone notice the hei likes to turn after a bit and retard the timming?
maybe the stock distributor hold down isn't cutting it?
 

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Well I have ran into a issue with my tachometer.
It seems to bounce around at 4000 RPM.
While taping this video, I noticed it.
Anyone know what that would be?
Maybe I need a resitor on the tach wire?

YouTube - 1977 Cobra II____289___4 speed

watch at 3:56 to 4:06 into the film.
 

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I tried using one on a 351W with an Edelbrock RPM Airgap and the body hit the manifold.I put an MSD ready to run in and it works great,no box needed.Put one on a 68 Mustang 302 ,worked for two days then went out.It took three weeks for them to replace it,had them return the money!In the interim put an Accel conversion in the stock distributor,works great! ROY.
 

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It would be a cold day in you know where before I would pop my hood to show a GM type distributor staring someone in the face.

Blueprint a DURASPARK II distributor and mount a TFI coil. Even rebuilding a points style with a PERTRONIX II would be better (IMO).

Hi all,

New to this site, has any one used the "PRO-COMP" electronics?

I've got a 460 in an (Australian) coupe (XB), and my mechanic has just ordered in a PRO-COMP distributor and coil and leads for me.
It is modelled off of MSD systems- but a lot cheaper priced.

Any feedback on these systems?

I have a MSD 6AL installed already.

Thanks
 

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Just picked up one myself but havn't installed it yet. Procomp dist. msd and coil. I like the idea of two rev limiters. One for your top end and a button activated one for launch revs. I will get back after I test though it might be a bit as I am just starting a build. 77 F150 with a 400.
Dave
 

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i know i hate chevy with a pasion but its something im willing to try nothing else will work rigth now. and ive heard good about having an hei distributor on a carb'd engine
 

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I heard nothing but bad things about the HEI<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
1.) With the coil in the cap...all the Radio Frequency Interference and Electro-Magnetic Interference that the coil produces is directed at the module and pickup trigger coil.<o:p></o:p>
2.) The high voltage from the secondary side of the ignition passes within 1-1/2" from the module. <o:p></o:p>
3.) When the high voltage escapes inside the distributor guarantees a false firing.<o:p></o:p>
4.) The center electrode is soft, high resistance graphite that comes off when voltage is passed through it and when the electrode comes in contact with the moving rotor small amounts of conductive graphite are distributed all over the inside the cap and on the rotor causing high voltage to follow it instead of going to the spark plug terminal like it should.<o:p></o:p>
5.) The HEI cap is not vented so the high energy discharge builds up ionized air, this promotes ground fires, cross fires and chain fires inside the cap. (Ever notice the red dust inside the HEI cap and carbon buildup on the rotor or weight pins eaten half through from spark welding?)<o:p></o:p>
6.) The Hall Effect trigger used in the HEI is the same basic design first used in 1966 and produces the weakest signal of the three major factory ignitions.<o:p></o:p>
7.) The coil housing is impossible to seal for moisture because of the wiring hookup design.<o:p></o:p>
8.) The coil is impossible to keep from leaking high voltage into everything.<o:p></o:p>
9.) GM could never design out all the defects, so the Coil in Cap design was scrapped. GM now uses an ignition very similar to the Ford ignition.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
The most likely reason you are hearing people say their car runs better with a HEI is because that fix an ignition problem (changed spark plug wires) with a new part. As far as the DUI distributor goes...I do like the extra bearing on the shaft. <o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
 

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I do know this is an old thread but I have had nothing but troubles out of my Proform HEI distributor, mine is partially exposed to sunlight since i run a blower style scoop that sticks out of my hood (75 datsun 500Z) the caps and wire covers only last a couple of months, the wiring insulation from inside the distributor to the plugs on the outside of the cap falls apart within 6 months, the internal bushings have had to be replaced 2 times. This distributor only has 3000 miles on it in 1 1/2 years and has used 2 coils, 3 caps, 2 modules with wiring. This is the worst distributor i have ever wasted $200 on.
 

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I`ve had Proforms in my last two cars w.o any kind of trouble. Noticeable upgrade from a new stock HEI in my Chevy, strong crisp ignition in my Ford.
 

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Yah well Hope you can sleep at night supporting CHINA. When I CAN, I REFUSE TO!
PROFORM anything is China made.
I'm so dam sick of everything we buy being made in CHINA INDONESIA etc etc etc!!
Yes MSD (Etc) now has stuff made for them in China as well. However Ive told them my peace about it as well.

However WE the consumer are the ones that will drive them out of the country.
We vote with our Pocket book...
Come on People. "Hot Rods" are expensive lets at least keep them "MADE IN USA"

Next thing you know (they work fast because of the Money Pipeline we set up for them) they will start marketing a complete Hot Rod with a stamped in China Body, cast and machined Engine and Transmission, Interior, ,gauges, suspension,wheels ,tires Etc Etc.
Maybe in the form of a 67 mustang?? Just put it in a big box ship it on a container and assemble like a kit car. Only $5000!!!
Hey it might "LOOK" like mustang, might even sound like one. But it will be wrong just wrong.

But what the hell do you type of people care???

"all i want is something for cheap"
"its a global economy these days"
"USA no longer has a manufacturing Economy, its all about services"
"Hey its My money!!"
"USA stuff is expensive !!! WAA WAAAHHH"
"I DONT CARE!!"

MARK my words if we dont change our attitude, we will end up owned by China. Yes i mean The good ol USA!!!
 

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I decided to play with a knock-off HEI dizzy. I had to grind some off the water neck, expected that. The drive gear was in no way pinned to the shaft so it just falls off at will, not an issue once installed but it sure is during installation. I finally put a glob of non-hardening RTV in the joint to hold for install, then I could not get it to seat all the way, finally figured out it was bottoming out on whatever that rod thing is in the block, I was able to lift it up with a magnet tool, but not out, it is loosey goosey in there, I pulled it up, and preinstalled into the bottom of the dizzy shaft, again with a smidge of RTV to hold it, now it's seated but, despite best effort it's clocked such that the wire's exit block is in just the wrong place to hit the air cleaner housing (after market Edelbrock oval thing). I will pull it all and start over trying to find a happy place. I expected to fiddle for fitment and my expectations are being exceeded!. I thought I could clock the cap anyway I wanted on the four hold down points but didn't notice until the end there's a locating nub on the cap and corresponding notch in the housing. I might just make my own notch 90 degrees over since it shouldn't matter in the end.
What is this internal rod and is it's looseness cause for pause? Off to research. sorry for ignorance, it's my first Ford in a long time, let alone a classic street rodded FE with unknown history.

'62 Galaxie 500 convertible with a '69 429 and Edelbrock 1407 and lots and lots of "custom" wiring!
 
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