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Discussion Starter #1
So the electrical bug bit me, as did the safety bug.

I've relocated the battery to the trunk with a disconnect switch, installed an inline fuel lock solenoid and a Grant security system. So far, so good.
Now, I'd like to use a hidden push button start switch as well as an ignition kill switch while still retaining the use of my ignition key.

Here is what I have in mind; flip a toggle switch, turn the key in the ignition all the way, and then finally use my push button to turn the car on.
I already have a 50amp toggle switch and a 60amp push button starter switch.

How would I go about this?
Is it as simple as splicing the toggle switch into the wire that goes to the keyed switch, and then splicing the push button into the wire that goes from the keyed ignition to the starter?
Would I need to use a relay of some sort?

The car in question is a 1976 Ford Granada, if that helps any.
 

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The key could still be used if you tap the wires with out cutting. Not using the kill switch would cause the car to start normally. Why do you want a starter button. I just installed on in a customers car because he said it would intermittently not crank with the key. We ran a whole new circuit on his so it would work on either.
 

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My setup is run with hidden switches that power the fan, fuel pump, and ignition system (not the starter). I also have a push button starter, that requires the key to be turned on in order for it to work. It was a relatively simple setup. Both the key and switches need to be in the on position for those systems to work. My switches are switched on to ground, no power through that system. Everything is run through a new relay box we installed in the engine compartment. The ignition key excites the fuse block in the relay box, which then gives power to all the relays. As I said, my switch system is wired to the ground. I also ran the starter, and headlights through the same relay system. Turned out beautifully and everything works much more reliably than before. My headlights doubled in brightness lol.

Hope that helps.

Cris
 

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if its an outo you could tap into the steering column.
the park neutral saftey switch.
a freind of mine had a car that used the seatbelt switch under the seat.
it was a stick you had to depress the clutch and lift your butt off the seat fore the car to start.
i dont know if you have those switches under the seat.
it was different though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks for the help guys!
And yes I do have an auto trans and column shift.

The thing is, I'd only want to be able to start the car with the key in the ignition, and then push the button to start the car.
Basically, I don't want to be able to start the car without the key. The push button would be mounted in a hidden spot under the dash somewhere.

The switch that I purchased is made by Taylor #1016. It has two poles, normally open and momentary-on.

The kill switch is Taylor #1018, 50amp toggle switch.

Here is a link to their page
 

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My car will not start without the key (unless you bypass it...something VERY easy with these old cars lol). The key must be in the on position in order to excite the relays so that the switches can complete the ground. If the switch is off, the key is useless, if the key is off, the switch is useless. Same goes for the starter button. The only 'drawback' if you could call it that, is that when the key is on, the start button is always armed. It's mounted where I couldn't hit it accidentally however, so it's not really a problem. Plus it's a pretty stout switch...you've really got to push it to make it work.

Cris
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is1BadFord,

I wish I could understand just how your system works since I don't even know how to use relays......kind of embarrassing, I know. But I am asking , so that should be somewhat of a start.

Your system/setup is exactly what I have in mind since I could then have my fuel lock solenoid + ignition + push start all wired up to work.

As you can tell, I'm not very electrical savvy...
Thanks again Is1BadFord,

Chris (my name is Chris as well)
 

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Is1BadFord,

I wish I could understand just how your system works since I don't even know how to use relays......kind of embarrassing, I know. But I am asking , so that should be somewhat of a start.

Your system/setup is exactly what I have in mind since I could then have my fuel lock solenoid + ignition + push start all wired up to work.

As you can tell, I'm not very electrical savvy...
Thanks again Is1BadFord,

Chris (my name is Chris as well)
I'll see if I can draw something up =D. Don't feel bad about not being electrical savvy...I mean, I can wire a stereo, or a basic ignition system...but when it came to all those relays (which are very simple once you understand btw), I was a bit lost. Luckily my best friend and business partner happened to be a sparky on boats in the Navy lol.

Like I said, I'll see about drawing something up and getting it to you here shortly.

Cris
 

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Is1BadFord,

I wish I could understand just how your system works since I don't even know how to use relays......kind of embarrassing, I know. But I am asking , so that should be somewhat of a start.

Your system/setup is exactly what I have in mind since I could then have my fuel lock solenoid + ignition + push start all wired up to work.

As you can tell, I'm not very electrical savvy...
Thanks again Is1BadFord,

Chris (my name is Chris as well)
Chris (not Cris lol)

It's a pretty basic set up. For you, since all you want to do is install a kill switch and a start button you just need two relays and those monster switches you have are not necessary. You can use them but you don't need anything that big even if you didn't use relays.

This is how you do it.

Find a wire in the passenger compartment that goes hot when the key is on. You could tap into the radio wire but it's best to get something that is not hot when the key is in accessories. Take that wire to both switches. If you want to hide them I would get some small switches as they have basically no load on them.

Run wires from the NO contacts on the switches to relays that you stick to the fenders, one next to the coil and the other next to the solinoid. Then wire the relays as per the drawing below.

http://www.peteandersonracing.com/CrisMisc/relay-wiring.jpg

This is a bit different than how I did Cris' car but his wiring was a bit more invloved.

What this is doing is inserting a relay in the circuit that normally activates these two devices (the stater and the ignition). That relay you are going to power from a switch in the car that only goes hot when the key is on. The down side to this is if you bump the starter switch with the motor running it will engage the starter. The key would do the same thing but it's pretty hard to bump the ignition switch accidentally. The other down side is if the relay fails that circuit won't work. If you keep a couple of jumpers in the glove box with male quick disconnects on them the then you can just unhook the wires from 30 and 87, jumper them together and you are back in business like it was factory.

Those relays are readily available at the parts store and handle up to 30 amps. FAR more than the load they will see.
 

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Speak of the devil =D.

There you have it from Brian himself lol.

Cris
 

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Gentlemen,

THANK YOU!!!

I couldn't have done it without the your help!
I'll be going to the parts store to get some relays and dive into my dash over the next couple of days.
Thanks once more Is1BadFord and [email protected]
No problem, glad to help =D.

I'll also get to work on that diagram. I really like the way we did mine up, and I think you will too =D. Brian's method will certainly get you started though!

Cris
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No problem, glad to help =D.

I'll also get to work on that diagram. I really like the way we did mine up, and I think you will too =D. Brian's method will certainly get you started though!

Cris
Cris, that would also be very appreciated!!!!!!
 

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Not to detract from your project in any way, but be aware, if done properly, you can have a more robust and reliable system. If any part is not done well, you are inviting gremlins into your system.

The second point is anti-theft. Unless having a push-button start system is just cool, more than one or possibly two theft deterrents are a waste and complicates your system, making it less reliable overall. Thieves want a quick theft. If they are blocked by one unknown system and can't start it within seconds, they will leave it and move on to the next car - or just tow it and torch it apart later. You already have enough obstacles to theft to be effective. Unless for some other purpose, adding more is generally asking for trouble. Just be aware.

David
 
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