[FlFairlane]

Ok, so I'm at the point of checking piston to valve clearance on my stroker motor. I'm using the ford motor sports Z304 heads with the offset intake valves, and the scorpion offset roller rockers for those heads. I bought what I though were the correct pushrod guide plates from Speedway motors, but putting everything together, the rocker roller tips are no where near where they should be. Should I cut the Speedway guides and weld a tab across them once in the correct place, or buy a set of adjustable plates from comp, or afr, etc.??

 

[Mroldfart2U]

You can do it either way, but I would call speedway first and see if they have another option or suggestion. They could poss take them back also if you wanted to try and re coup a little cash to purchace the others you mentioned...

 

[DanH]

I have the correct set from Z304 heads .

will sell for $54 plus $8 USPS flat rate they are new

 

[FlFairlane]

I have the correct set from Z304 heads .

will sell for $54 plus $8 USPS flat rate they are new

Dan could you tell me some dimensions of the ones you have, ie. the spacing between the pushrod slots, and the approximate offset of the intake slot from center of the intake rocker stud hole? I'm a little worried about spending more money on something that may not work. Here are the ones I bought from Speedway.....
Ford N351 Head Pushrod Guide Plates - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

 

[FlFairlane]

You can do it either way, but I would call speedway first and see if they have another option or suggestion. They could poss take them back also if you wanted to try and re coup a little cash to purchace the others you mentioned...

I've already cut one plate to see what I could do with it, so can't send the set back..........

 

[FlFairlane]

Looking closer at a pic of the Comp adjustable plate, I do not believe there would be enough adjustment from the center of the intake rocker stud to the offset pushrod location on their plate, even with the slot they provide.

 

[Mroldfart2U]

I've already cut one plate to see what I could do with it, so can't send the set back..........

DOH!!! lol ok... hence the reason you want the demensions to "build" your own.... cant ya bolt each end down just as a mock up and get your "strap" measurement or whatever ya need to join them together again

 

[FlFairlane]

DOH!!! lol ok... hence the reason you want the demensions to "build" your own.... cant ya bolt each end down just as a mock up and get your "strap" measurement or whatever ya need to join them together again

That's exactly where I'm at right now. I have the rocker arm set mocked up where they are centered over the valve stems, and have the cut guide plate bolted down under the rocker studs. I guess all I need to do is cover everything up good and tack my tie strap in place then remove and finish weld them. At least that way I'll know the rocker arms are exactly where they need to be.
I'm running a hydraulic roller cam, so I've just ordered two hyd. roller lifters from Summit ($7.00ea). I'll weld up the tops so they don't collapse and do my clearance check. I'm glad I'm a patient guy..........!

 

[DanH]

Dan could you tell me some dimensions of the ones you have, ie. the spacing between the pushrod slots, and the approximate offset of the intake slot from center of the intake rocker stud hole? I'm a little worried about spending more money on something that may not work. Here are the ones I bought from Speedway.....
Ford N351 Head Pushrod Guide Plates - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

they are right out of the box of new Z heads . Z304 first came out , Ford gave the g/plates with them . can always do what I did , get Jesel shaft rockers

 

[FlFairlane]

they are right out of the box of new Z heads . Z304 first came out , Ford gave the g/plates with them . can always do what I did , get Jesel shaft rockers

Thanks for your offer Dan, but I think I would end up with the same plates as I have now. Going the Jesel route is not an option, as I'm only running a hydraulic cam, 6400 rpms at best, and I'm retired on a fixed income, can't really afford the cost of Jesel stuff.

 

[PSIG]

If it's easier, the alternative way to make solid check lifters is to pull the guts and flip the check valve. Some require grinding to get the perfect zero-height on reassembly. Be sure to mark them as TEST lifters. Yeah, I still kick my self for not getting a couple extra pairs of Z304s when they were on sale from FRPP last year. Complete, assembled, with valves, springs, etc., the correct K351 roller rockers, and guide plates for $1200. Total. For the pair. Damn.

David

 

[DanH]

Thanks for your offer Dan, but I think I would end up with the same plates as I have now. Going the Jesel route is not an option, as I'm only running a hydraulic cam, 6400 rpms at best, and I'm retired on a fixed income, can't really afford the cost of Jesel stuff.

I know the difference between N and Z and straight on plates​

 

[DanH]

If it's easier, the alternative way to make solid check lifters is to pull the guts and flip the check valve. Some require grinding to get the perfect zero-height on reassembly. Be sure to mark them as TEST lifters. Yeah, I still kick my self for not getting a couple extra pairs of Z304s when they were on sale from FRPP last year. Complete, assembled, with valves, springs, etc., the correct K351 roller rockers, and guide plates for $1200. Total. For the pair. Damn.

David

"kick my self" ......didnt know , wish I did , Iam kicking myself . I'll be back when done

 

[FlFairlane]

I know the difference between N and Z and straight on plates​

Ok, school me Dan, I am a novice to fords, this is my first one owned. My last ride was a Coronet with a 528 hemi that I built.... so there is a difference between the N series and the Z series plates? Please explain the difference to me.....

 

[DanH]

Ok, school me Dan, I am a novice to fords, this is my first one owned. My last ride was a Coronet with a 528 hemi that I built.... so there is a difference between the N series and the Z series plates? Please explain the difference to me.....

same as a 392 rocker system is different than a 426 .

each one is made for the given head , lenght , spacing ,..... ,...

 

[FlFairlane]

same as a 392 rocker system is different than a 426 .

each one is made for the given head , lenght , spacing ,..... ,...

Thanks for your info Dan, I found them at Jegs for $49 and free shipping.

 

[DanH]

Thanks for your info Dan, I found them at Jegs for $49 and free shipping.

this a street engine that will see some miles ? reason I ask

 

[FlFairlane]

this a street engine that will see some miles ? reason I ask

Yes, not a daily driver, but driven to shows and maybe a visit to the strip now and then....

 

[FlFairlane]

Ok, school me Dan, I am a novice to fords, this is my first one owned. My last ride was a Coronet with a 528 hemi that I built.... so there is a difference between the N series and the Z series plates? Please explain the difference to me.....

OK Dan, I ordered the Ford Motorsports part number for the Z304 heads, M-6566-Z304D and received them yesterday from Jegs. Here are some pics of the Ford M-6656 plates beside the Speedway N-351 series head plates. They are exactly the same product. The plate on the left is the Speedway N-351 plate, and on the right is the Ford 6566 plate. The plates on the bottom of the picture are both plates on top of each other. So either they are the same part for both heads, or Speedway is shipping the wrong plates if they have them listed for N-351 heads. Guess I'll be sending the Jegs plates back to get my money back......

 

[FlFairlane]

Re: pushrod guide plate issue......continued

Ok, so I sent the duplicate set of plates back, and went back to assembling the valve train to check the piston to valve clearance. Attached are pictures of what I am ending up with. The guide plates are supposed to be for the Z304 head, and the Scorpion rockers are the set with offset intake for the Z304 head. I have cut one of the plates apart and located them where the roller tips of the rocker arms are centered on the valve tips. You can see how far the gap is between the two pieces. My plan is to get some steel plate and tack weld it across the halves to keep them in place, then remove them and finish welding them. That way I know everything will end up where it is supposed to. Anyone have any other ideas??