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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of relocating the battery in my truck. I'm putting it in the right rear corner of the box. I am using 2/0 positive cable up to the power side of the starter solenoid. The ground is also a 2/0 that goes from the battery down to the frame. Do I need to ground my frame to engine where my negative battery cable used to go to? Or do I need to run another ground from my battery to the engine?

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1982 F100-357c w/stuffed 4v's and Funnelweb

http://www.supermotors.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=6723

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: f100cleveland on 11/30/06 11:11pm ]</font>
 

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I have my Battery grounded solidly to the body (in the trunk) and then the body grounded to the engine ... all seems fine. That is on the car pictured below.

On a truck where the bed and frame are seperate I'd definately work to the frame like you say. If it turns out to be a problem you'll find out in short order anyway. However, I would definately think "nice solid" grounds from battery to frame / frame to engine would be fine.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: MonsterMach on 11/30/06 11:54pm ]</font>
 

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Having a lot of power is great but a bad ground will haunt you forever. Ground everything as stated above and live happily ever after...
 

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I would also ground to body. Because the rubber mounts on the frame/body could cause problems. All your lights, gages, radio, etc ground to the body. Frame to body, frame to engine and engine to body. Can't go work.
 

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You don't need as heavy of a ground wire when connecting from the frame to the body, but you DO need a heavy wire (2/0) to connect from the frame back to the block.
 

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One type of cable I do like to use is welding cable. Heavy enough to handle the amps and easy to bend around. You can also get it in any lengths you want.
 

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On 2006-11-30 21:36, coolfalcon wrote:
What they said. Also if you have aluminum heads. Put frame to head wire on both of them helps the IGN out.
How does grounding directly to an AL head help the ignition?

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the advice guys. I ended up with my 2/0 positive cable from the battery to the solenoid. 2/0 ground cable from the battery directly to the frame. And I also used 2/0 to ground my engine to the frame. I took it out and drove it and I was amazed at the fact that my voltage stays right at 14.45 with the lights on high and before, with the battery in the stock location with #1 wires, it would fall to about 13.8 with the lights on high. I'm either flowing my watts through my wire or my ground is a lot better since both the frame and engine are grounded now.
 

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Yeah that one lost me too. Head bolts don't make a difference and the dist is in the block?
 

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On an engine with aluminum heads if you ground through the head bolts they will rapidly corrode and the ground goes bad.If you run ground straps to the heads then the contact is either tin or copper to both surfaces and it will not corrode as quickly - making a better ground for a lot longer. The distributor has a boss that runs on the cast iron engine in an oil bath. Very little corrosion and it has a gasket between the body of the distributor and the intake manifold. The steel clamp and bolt would quickly corrode if it was grounding through that but it is grounding through the interior of the block. An extra grounding strap of 10ga wire would certainly make a better ground.
Remember the obvious: clean metal to metal contact for your ground straps that are sealed after tightened. You can seal them with paint, or an anti-corrosive spray. Copper makes an excellent connection to both aluminum and iron so copper terminals are fine. Most modern terminals are plated with either silver, cadmium or an alloy of both. This is a corrosion resistant material and is even better than the bare copper. It is still a good idea to seal the connection after it is tightened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So even with iron heads, would it be beneficial to ground each head to the firewall and then the firewall to the frame with lets say a 10 guage wire?
 
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