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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a timing cover/balancer seal leak, i have a 5.0 with old(70's) fan and belts. to get the fan bolts out do i need to remove the radiator? i forget!
also how can i torque the balancer back on real tight without having the crank turn on me, ive done it before but might not be the right way.
my guess is this new seal is the wrong size or the paint on the balancer ruined the seal...i should have listened to summit directions(dont paint the o.d hub)! grrr!
 

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It all depends on how close your fan is to the radiator. If you have a large spacer between the water pump and the fan, the bolts will be that long. You are going to drain the coolant anyway, so get the radiator out of the way. You will have more room to work. One bright note: you don't have to remove the water pump. Leave it bolted to the timing cover. Just remove the necessary bolts for the cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yup i have the long one, thanks for the tip. i am hoping to just take the balaner off, the round seal is all i need to get at. i confuse myself many times unless its right in front of me! silly me, i meant the pully attached to the balancer. jeesh overloaded this week working on a pilot(hollywood)
 

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About the balancer, every time I have removed it I just crank it with a breaker bar until the big (13/16ths?) nut comes off. Then you usually need a puller to remove it from the crankshaft (but sometimes it will just come off with a little effort). When I put it back on I put the car in gear/park to prevent the crank from turning and crank it down to about 90ft/lbs (not sure the official turque specs but mine has never come off).

If you can remove the 4 long bolts that hold the fan on you don't need to remove the radiator. If those will not clear the radiator you could probably remove the water pump bolts and take the entire front fan assembly off in one piece (after removing the belts).

Don't forget the front oil pan bolts are holding on the timing cover too so you need to crawl underneath and remove those.

When you reassemble it all, don't forget to replace the fan shroud...mine still sits in the garage...



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: XR7Cougar on 3/11/06 10:27am ]</font>
 

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A word of advise is to remove several of the oil pan bolts along both sides as you will certainly fight with the cover to get it over the ends of the oil pan and not knock the small gaskets out of place. With the cover off just pop the seal out and install a new one. Use a seal driver or in a pinch support the cover on a piece of 2x4 on its flat, then with another piece on it's flat use it and a hammer to set the seal in . That way you are applying force on it uniformly instead of causing it to 'cock' with a hammer. As added insurance I apply a very thin film of silicone on the outside of the seal where it contacts the housing and then i apply grease on the inside of the expander ring in the seal. This keeps the ring from moving or vibrating out when you hammer it in.With the timing chain cover gasket they usually include two short pieces which are the front extensions of the pan gasket that usually get ripped off when you pry off the cover. I usually glue these onto the bottom of the cover, put a small bead of silicone where they will meet the cutoff in the old pan gasket and it should slide right into place. Then bolt up the pan. You'll need a 15/16" socket and I usually put two old bolts in the holes in the balancer that the pulley attaches to. Then you can put a bar across them to hold the balancer from turning while you torque the bolt into position. Specs on a 302 usually call for 70-90 ft.lbs. I Hope this helps somewhat. John
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok thanks alot. can i pry the seal out, and pop a new one in with the timing cover still on without taking it off? thanks i am thinking with the right size piece or pipe i can pop the new one in with out taking the cover off.
 

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Nope! On the 302 the seal is put in from the back. Gotta take that cover off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok thanks.. well i have maybe 70 miles on this new one pc. pan gasket, think i can just reuse it? its the felpro blue rubber metal one.
 

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Do it right or you'll do it again. Replace the gaskets on the cover. Also a way to keep the engine from turning is to pull a front sparkplug either side doesn't matter, and push about 6" of small vacuum hose in the cylinder using a 12" length so you can pull it out. Then turn the engine in the direction to loosen the bolt. It'll stop and you can loosen the bolt. just turn it the other way when you install it. It'll also work to pull off the damper. Take the radiator out. It'll make everything easier to get at and you don't have to worry about punching a hole in it.
 

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The felpro blue neoprene gaskets are 'supposed ' to be just that...reusable. Just make sure to clean the surfaces of the block spotless with laquer thinner or brake clean. Put a small bead of silicone on the corners for sure where the main bearing meets the rear pan rail and on the front corners as well. Shouldn't have a problem. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i hear ya thanks alot for the tips.
the oil pan gasket is the blue rubber one piece metal lined gasket i want to reuse...(or not take off) my friend(pro) says i can but need to be careful not to tear it by loosening all the pan bolts. any seconds on that? thanks
 

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Normally the blue Felpro gaskets with the dowelled bolt holes are installed dry. Therefore you shouldn't risk harming them when removing the pan. Just take your time removing the bolts and the pan should drop down fine. Those gaskets usually came with four blue screw in dowels that have a slit cut in them. Usually installed at the corners they allow for you to install the gasket over them to hold it in place while you install the pan. Maybe you still have them?
 

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how much room between the heads of the fan bolts & the radiator? usually there is enough room to back out the 4 bolts & take the spacer, fan & bolts out together. back together the same way.
damper bolt; put 1/2" breaker bar on the bolt & rest end of bar on the chassis on the driver side. just tap the starter & bolt should break loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks alot all. man ford shoulda made that front timing cover(balancer/crank round seal) to install from the front! it wouldnt have made a difference so its not like they did it for a reason, just seems like they werent thinking...or they were trying to keep mechanics working! i mean its not that hard to do , but if i tear the oil pan gasket or dont get it back on just right, i may have another leak once i get it all back together. grrr!
 

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Does the same process apply to a 65 289? Still have to remove the timing cover and all?
 
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